wayne1967 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 How did you guys run flashing around your chimney pipe? My shop roof has very little slope at all. Wood top with rolled roofing. I saw a flashing online that had a metal base and thermoplastic ring. Rated at 215 degrees didn't know how hot your pipes will get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 I used a roof jack with a wide skirt because I have a steel roof and it has pretty tall ribs. This makes it a little hard to get it down tight and water proof so moving it farther from the stack allowed me to use weather seal and mastic to put a gooey gasket under it and screw it at close intervals.Probably a better plan than asking a random bunch on the internet is hit the library and check out a book about roofing. There is a RIGHT way to do roof penetrations for every type roof there is. What works on mine may be a disaster on yours.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne1967 Posted April 2, 2015 Author Share Posted April 2, 2015 Right, don't want to burn my shed down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 I stuck mine out a hole in the side of the building. Intact roof == happy roof! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne1967 Posted April 2, 2015 Author Share Posted April 2, 2015 My walls are all cinder block. Thinking about just having one of the maintenance guys at work cut me out a circle in a plate of aluminum and using high temp silicone around it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Your pipe won't get hot enough to bother the gaskets on a proper flashing. They're rated to handle wood stoves and fireplaces that burn for hours at a time, so handling a coal forge isn't going to be any different. The heat lost as the smoke rises up the pipe means that it's relatively cool by the time it gets up to the roof. Then you have the roof, gasket and flashing acting as a heat sink, drawing away the heat as fast as it can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSW Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 My walls are all cinder block.I can probably make the hole in the cinder block wall and flash it just as fast or faster, and better than I could a hole in the roof. Solid concrete would slow my down some, but it still wouldn't keep me from making it happen. Mark out the diameter of the hole you want, plus a little give, and drill a bunch of holes thru touching each other and knock out the center. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 The newer silicon and aluminum pipe flashing for metal rooves are rated in exeses of 500f most any place that sells meatal building components can hook you up. Cement block is prety easy to deal with tho and certaily would be less exspensive and less likely to leak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j.w.s. Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 I got overly cautious about the flashing this past winter when I threw a thermocouple, 6 feet up the pipe from my coal stove, in my flue and started seeing temperature peaks over 980F. Laser was still reading in the high 200's for the pipe itself. I made a custom flashing with my plasma cutter and lined it with 1" kaowool. Used high temp sealant to weatherproof it. My building is old timber and I just didn't want to take the chance. Maybe if my curiosity didn't get in the way and made me put that thermocouple in there I would have been fine without doing the extra work. Like Frosty said though, there's information out there in books about the proper way to do it.J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 I believe the OP was about a coal forge. A heat stove has a much higher flue temp than a forge. A forge draws a LOT of ambient room air with the fire exhaust so it's significantly cooled or so many guys wouldn't be asking how to make their forge hoods draw. A stove is about controlling draft and keeping the flue hot enough crud doesn't condense in it.YES, absolutely, roof penetrations and heat shielding for a heat stove is WAY more important. I over killed my wood stove's stack. It's triple wall and has 3x code for stand off distances. I also sheet rocked between the stack and the framing in the walls, floor, trusses and cupola. Yes sir I do NOT believe in taking chances with fire and code is MINIMUM acceptable.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bud in PA Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 I definitely would put the pipe through the wall with a slight downward angle to keep the rain from flowing back into the forge. If your roof doesn't leak don't give it a reason to leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gote Posted December 6, 2015 Share Posted December 6, 2015 This is my setup. I have an old vacuum cleaner blowing through the pipe. It forces a draft through the horizontal pipe (6"). Thus I do not need any expensive exhaust fan. These are early pics. Today I have added a piece of thin Aluminium sheet as a flashing at the exit end. Circular hole slightly less than 6" and beaten up to form a flange. The setup can be swinged away when cleaning the forge. As you can see the smoke stays in place and I have zero smoke in the shop when the vac is running. The pipe is not getting ery hot never above 200°C on the surface. I get some soot particles accumulating in the horizontal pipe so it should be swept occasionally lest it caches fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricJergensen Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 gote: I like it. I'm going to copy it using a used furnace draft inducer blower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gote Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 Hope you are sucessful. My object was to avoid making hole in the roof which is a bane in my climate. Draft induction is precisely the job my cleaner does. (I think we bougt it in the sixties the fan is still OK) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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