Joel OF Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 Hi folks,I'm long overdue a drill upgrade from the small hand-me-down Naerok bench drill I've been making do with for the last couple years. I'm looking for a new single phase floor standing pillar drill and I noticed a solid looking Draper £300 machine in my local tool shop the other day. Can anyone offer me a second opinion on this and whether it's sounds any good? It will be in regular use for small/medium sized blacksmithing and fabrication work.Here's some spec highlights:Model No.: 4263916 speed belt driven, 210-3340 r/min16mm chuck capacity550W motor160mm throatTiltling table, 260mm x 260mmHeight 1620mmWeight 98kgAny general buying advice would also be appreciated or if you know any other machines that are worth a look in. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 Me myself personally, I would definitely look towards a second hand big boys drill rather than another cheap line one. An old tool room Meddings or Fobco or similar, some are single phase. But they are cheap enough that you could buy one and a static phase convertor, or change the motor, for not too dissimilar money. The Draper won't be much of an upgrade, you will still have the awful 2 belt 4pulley belt/speed change system. Do a search for machine tool dealers.If you have decided to go "new" have a look at the Axminster Tools site for some of their "own brand" kit or try Multiform machinery, who are on your side of the country, do professional stuff...Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel OF Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 Cheers for the advice Alan. I'm a late starter with metalworking and being clueless about machinery and electricals are my real Achilles Heel(s)!Having read a bit of advice about 3 phase to single phase inverters on another thread I understand you loose a bit of oomph from the motor when you go down that route - so presumably the type of drills your talking about have enough grunt to start with that even when you add the phase inverter they've still got more beans than the £300 Draper/SIP/Axminsters of this world? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 (edited) Hi Joel, just to add to Alan's advice, 750watt single phase with industrial rating usage is advisable, also a rack and pinion table height adjuster is definately recommendedFrom a practical point, you do not need the high speed rpm range, and with stepped shank drills you can drill up to 25mm + diameters relatively easily. Edited March 9, 2015 by John B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knots Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 If you are lucky enough to find a machine with a 3phase motor and need to convert to single phase, my preference would be to use a VFD instead of a static phase converter.The VFD will provide speed control which is a big benefit. One of my DP's is fitted out this way which is especially beneficial when drilling larger diameter holes. You can even use hole saws without a lot of drama. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel OF Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 Cheers folks.At the minute I rent a bit of workshop space off a farmer turned fabricator & I remembered this morning that he's got an old bench drill collecting dust out in one of his barns. Could this be more in the league of the drills you guys are suggesting? I'm slightly reluctant to bring up the topic with him unless I've got cash in my hand ready to tempt him, getting a farmer to part with anything aint easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 Hi Joel,Looks like a sound piece of useful drilling machinery, but how much of an update is it from your existing drill?And what differential value would you put on it, against the purchase of a new one with guarantee.Does it work? how accurate is it? what advantage does it have over the existing unit? Table swivel adjusts to incline? or fixed at 90 degrees to spindle If it does go wrong are you going to have hassle with its previous owner ? (not unknown for mice nests in motor etc) Or would you want to invest the money towards something which would be suitable for now and your future requirements,Your call at the end of the day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel OF Posted March 11, 2015 Author Share Posted March 11, 2015 I think you've summed up most of the things that go through my mind when deciding to buy anything new or 2nd hand. The added frustration for me is that as I'm so naive about machinery I could easily miss a fault on a 2nd hand machine, (which is why I generally fabour buying new), though I'd feel comfortable buying this one off the fabricator as he is the most honest and helpful guy in the world.My current drill is so small I think anything would be an upgrade t.b.h, the tiny throat capacity on the Naerok is what really gets on my nerve & it has a tantrum with hole saws too. I'll probably fire up this Spaldings one and test it out but if it's not to be for whatever reason I'll keep my eyes open for a kosher 2nd hand machine as advised. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianinsa Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 Motors are dead easy to replace, that press looks like it might have a Morse taper , Joel, wind down the spindle and look for a vertical slot in the shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel OF Posted March 11, 2015 Author Share Posted March 11, 2015 (edited) I fired it up today and it seems to be running well, I'm pretty sure I noticed those vertical slots in the shaft you mention. What's their function? The table can rotate to 45 degrees & be raised/lowered with one hand & from the column to the chuck centre is 7" versus the tiny 4" on my current drill.There was also a small 6" bench grinder next to it that works despite the inch thick layer of dust of dust on it. Edited March 11, 2015 by Joel OF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 to use morse taper stuff you need a drift, a tapered wedge that goes in that slot, you can then remove the chuck and put morse taper drills in directly or change to a different chuck.you can often pick up drill bits cheap and they are generally good quality as hobby stuff does not take MT.largest I have and have used is 3 inch, I have a large geared ( not belt drive ) drill with power feed, a larger manual one, a 3 MT mill.the drill you posted a pic of takes 2MT which generally goes up to 3/4" but you can get bigger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 (edited) As long as it comes cheap enough and if the throat is larger than your existing one it won't do you any harm! It is just an older version of the cheap line ones, not that I am being xenophobic, the Taiwanese and Chinese stuff is brilliant for the money…it just is not in the same league as the old tool room stuff. The rotating table may possibly be useful but I doubt it, I know most of those drills have them…you have better control clamping to an angled block and leaving the table level.I find it really handy having two or three pillar / bench drills on the go. Some times it is useful to be able to go from one to the other in sequence, tapping drill counter bore, threading tool etc. If it runs and the spindle does not rattle too much that one looks like a nominal £40 or £50 to me…The easiest to use and the drill I go to most often is the oldest, a between the wars (Denbigh or Pollard?) with a flat belt drive and the curved cast top frame. The quill rattles but the drill bits self centre!AlanPS the vertical slots Ian mentioned are where you poke a wedge tool through which presses on the end of the morse taper arbor that the chuck is mounted on. You can then use larger morse taper drill bits direct in the quill. The label says it has a morse taper no.2 which is standard. PPS almost forgot…I have replaced all my keyed chucks with Jacobs keyless ones which go up to 16mm, great convenience and time saver. Edited March 11, 2015 by Alan Evans Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianinsa Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Of course this dummy did not READ THE LABEL! Twit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Of course this dummy did not READ THE LABEL! Twit!Well of course it would have been difficult for you to read it.As you are halfway to the upside down part of the World from here, the photo was probably on its side anyway… Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel OF Posted March 12, 2015 Author Share Posted March 12, 2015 Of course this dummy did not READ THE LABEL! Twit!I'm shaking my head in slow motion whilst tutting at you.Seriously though, cheers for all your help folks! Much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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