Jeddly Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Went to my local HD the other day to inquire about the 165# anvil. I had heard they were able to bring them in from the lower 48. Apparently they have changed their minds or something, because the anvil was removed from their website. Feeling a bit miffed, I decided to check Amazon and roll the dice on a couple other sites. The best I found was from Acme tools, and they quoted it as being ~1200 to my loading dock in Anchorage. Only 49$ shipping. Wow! I just thought I would share, since finding anvils up here is kind of difficult. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 502610a62565a00a44672017dc99ec5b Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Thanks for the information, I had no idea they were that expensive. Someone tried to buy a fellow blacksmiths anvil, he was offered $1000 for it, now I understand why. I am interested in blacksmithing, and I am curious as to what kind of forge you have. Also, what kind of blacksmithing do you do? If you would like to talk about blacksmithing, or see the forge I made, call me at seven four five two seven three three.Went to my local HD the other day to inquire about the 165# anvil. I had heard they were able to bring them in from the lower 48. Apparently they have changed their minds or something, because the anvil was removed from their website. Feeling a bit miffed, I decided to check Amazon and roll the dice on a couple other sites. The best I found was from Acme tools, and they quoted it as being ~1200 to my loading dock in Anchorage. Only 49$ shipping. Wow! I just thought I would share, since finding anvils up here is kind of difficult. The blacksmithing book I have, has a set of plans for an anvil that you can make yourself. The forge I have, was made from a set of plans in this book, so it would probably work fine. Thanks for the note,John Mielke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ef573012a6b404dea836019c0318a0f6 Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Or you can reach me at coleen(at)mtaonline(dot)net Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Welcome aboard John, glad to see you here. Did you find a source of coal, decide to dig @ Castle Mtn. burn charcoal or go propane? How about posting a couple pics of your forge? We LOVE pics.Which books do you have? I need to get the details worked out but I'll be holding a propane burner and forge building workshop this summer some time.How about coming to the next club meeting? It'll be April 18th. in Anchorage, give me a call I'll give you directions.An old neighbor from N. Birchwood Lp.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kubiack Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 (edited) When I bought my Peddinghaus I also check at HD. They were able to look it up in the Ridgid tools catalog and then call the distributor to get me a price. This was a hard copy they had in the store not on the computer. If its any consolation it was still several hundred dollars less to order it from Blacksmith Depot and have it shipped. I did ask them if they could match the price with Blacksmiths Depot and they said not on special order items. If you can get $45 shipping I don't think they will be able to beat the price even if they could order it.The 275lb Peddinghaus is only $600 more than the 165lb. If you can I'd go ahead an get the big one. It may seem like a lot now but this is something will probably last the rest of you life. I sure would hate to look at that 165lber everyday and wish I had spent the extra for the bigger one. Looking at the prices of the two at Blacksmith Depot are $1165 and $1775 respectively so that makes them $7 and $6.46 per pound. The bigger one is a better deal. Edited February 20, 2015 by kubiack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeddly Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 Heres a quick picture of my forge. The burner I copied from reading about Frostys T burner. Its 1" pipe and tee with a .045 mig tip. Two inches of kaowool coated with rigidizer and sairset. The housing is a regular ole propane tank. I got the anvil from my dad. He said it came out of one of the barns on his property in Colorado a really long time ago. I weighed it the other day, and it was dang near 125lbs exactly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeddly Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 The only notable things I have forged are a few knives, a couple shelf brackets, some little skulls from 1/2" sq, and a dozen or so pint jar handles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 That's a NICE Kohlswa Jed. Is it dated? How's it compare to my 125lb. Soderfors? I believe you're used mine haven't you?Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeddly Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 Never been to your place Frosty. I'd love to date my anvil. Dinner, movie, then later, something hot and steamy? :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teenylittlemetalguy Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Lol! They are not very comfortable to put your arm around at the movie...very lovely anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Never been to your place Frosty. I'd love to date my anvil. Dinner, movie, then later, something hot and steamy? I must have you confused with someone else. Held a hammer in here a couple summers back and thought you made it out. The date of manufacture is stamped in the off side of mine. Just don't take your anvil to see the Pound Puppies movie. Just don't tell me about it please!Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalmangeler Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 I have 2 kohlswas, neither has a date or serial number on them. They both seem to work fine without them though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeddly Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 I don't think I had the right thermocouple in the forge. The probe was 1/4" stainless about 6" long. It melted. Also, I'm going to have to re-coat the interior after the last block of damascus. When the forge gets hot, the floor basically melts. I've tried chipping it off of my brick, but I think its there to stay. I'll just cover it over and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 What are you coating it with? Some guys use a SS pan to protect the liner from flux.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Don't forget the cheap clay kitty litter too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeddly Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 The coating is called Sairset. Forgive my ignorance (theres lots), what is the kitty litter for? I have a 50# sack of bentonite I scored from a drilling supply house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 I had to look it up but Sairset is mortar not really a refractory and certainly not suitable for a forge wash. Kitty litter is bentonite clay and it will make a decent temporary repair for damaged fire brick. It might even make a good kiln wash. It is an alumina psyllosilicate clay. (yeah I googled it) High alumina clays aren't as susceptible to caustics, most weldig fluxes based on borax are very caustic at welding temps. silicates are soluble in caustics and hot caustics just dissolve it like sugar in hot water.Anywho, just use the Sairset to stick fire brick to the liner, it isn't suitable for the fire contact zone.I've never tried this but if you wet the brick then sprinkle bentonite on it and allow it to dry it may make a flux resistant wash in the fire contact zone.A trick some of the guys use is to lay a Stainless Steel tray on the forge floor to keep flux off it.Heck try both, can't hurt might help.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 fill the tray with cheap clay based kitty litter and replace litter as it gets gunky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 fill the tray with cheap clay based kitty litter and replace litter as it gets gunkyYes! Thank you Thomas I forget that part I just replace my split brick floor as needed.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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