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I Forge Iron

Making a Fisher anvil, O1 tool steel source?


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Good luck. Im sure that the best chances of success are with you. Hopefully not too many of the trade secrets went with the Fisher employees. Are there any old films of Fisher manufacturing anvils?

 

I am not aware of any films of Fisher, HayBudden, etc.  They would be golden if any existed.   I have some photographs of Fisher molds awaiting pouring, both open and closed.  I will be carefully studying them when we get to the moldmaking step.

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Josh I have some O1 flat bar I would be willing to donate to the cause.  I also would be willing to work with you in my shop to do some of the prep work.  As you know I have presses power hammers and a machine shop. 

 

Tim

 

Thanks for the offer.  If I get to any point where I need your help, I will certainly take you up on your offer.

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I'm surprised the used 01 but now I understand your choice.

My interest in this thread has just increased as it seems I've just bought a fisher...


Would the plate had to be at a welding heat when they poured in the iron?

Andy

 

Fisher got the two metals to weld by preheating the top plate with a pre-pour of molten iron under the plate.  Anvil were cast up-side down.

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Teeny guy
 
I hate to tell you, but your top plate is not 3/4" thick.  Look carefully at the anvil, particularly where the top plate meets the cutting table.  You should be able to see the top plate thickness there.  What looks like a thick plate is just a good old foundrymans/patternmakers trick.  The casting has that line about 3/4" down from the top.  It is actually iron made to look like a thick top.  Depending on the size of your anvil, the steel plate went from 3/16" to 1/2"(on the 800).
 
I have seen Fisher anvils advertised as having a "double thick top plate".  NO such thing.  It is just an illusion that Fisher did to make everyone think the top plate was thicker than it was.  But what they did was adequate; look at how well many of the Fisher anvils have held up.  Yes, a lot have chips, broken, and worn out tops, but these are working tools that have had a lot of use and abuse in their lifetimes.

The tricky little guys, I forgive them though
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Josh-The one thing I remember from the patents and liturature I reviewed about Fishers when I did my school project was that they designed the metal flow in the mold in such a way as to wash over the plate. I would think that would be extremely important, especially if you are going to preheat the plate. The washing effect will help remove the iron oxide layer that will otherwise make it difficult to get a good bond.

 

Patrick

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Josh-The one thing I remember from the patents and liturature I reviewed about Fishers when I did my school project was that they designed the metal flow in the mold in such a way as to wash over the plate. I would think that would be extremely important, especially if you are going to preheat the plate. The washing effect will help remove the iron oxide layer that will otherwise make it difficult to get a good bond.

 

Patrick

 

The steel plates on the anvil side are cleaned and fluxed.  That should hold down the oxidation on that side.  The "preheat" side will get a graphite/carbon coating to minimize the sticking of the iron to the plate.  The gating system is designed to flow over the fluxed plates first, then fill the mold.

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Sorry to disappoint everyone, but the project in Ohio is cancelled.  I could not do what the Ohio group required from me.  I will leave it at that.

 

This is not to say that I will not attempt to do a Fisher anvil pour; it will just be done on my own.  I will still try to do a small anvil to see if it can be done, something in the 20 lb size.   Recreating historical  technical details and procedures is not easy.  I will be going by photos of open patterns and clues from my collection.

 

I will keep every apprised of the progress. 

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