basher

Lets see the swords that you have made.....

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Here's one I hammered out a little while back..1095 and SS heat treat foil. Guard is forged from 1 puece of mild steel..NO welds to break that way...

JPH

DSC00768A.jpg

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Does anyone have a good trick for cleaning the drool off my keyboard?

Frosty The Lucky.

​It's called a BIB. The straps can be adjusted so the BIB will sit on your lower lip. They come in very soft fabric, so not to cause a rash.

I also have seen a lower lip lock with a drip tray. Slightly used, only One Owner, Never used on Sunday, Uphill both ways. :D:D

Love the Glitter, Hats off to all!! I would take my hat off more often, but the glare is too bright.

Neil

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Amazing work! Figured I'd throw my first few swords into the mix and see if anyone has any pointers. I've got a long ways to go. 

I've only made these 3 in total and I need to make about 50 more before I can hold my own against you folks. The solid iron sword was my first, the longsword second, and the gladius the third I made. 

These are just iron wall hangers, but i learned so much making these, like how hard it is gonna be to harden and temper a longsword!

Does anyone have a good set up for forging the blades and fullers efficiently? Maybe a custom fuller design or an angled block to forge the edges? I don't have a belt grinder so I like to forge as close to finished as possible. 

swords1.jpg

Gladius UPLOAD.jpg

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Look at the spring fuller in the "bayonet handle needs blade" tread, he used a more or les standard sring fuller, welded on fulleing jawa 90 degrees to the normal set up and instaled a stop. One can also grind a file to profile as a scraper to clean it up before sanding with wet and dry wraped around a dowl ( tho it works better if you acualy profile a block so its easer to hold) dont wory about holow grinding the edges, saber or axe grinds are far stronge, and seriously, they didnt have belt grinders back then. If its a style that requres it, then run two or three fullerd groves and forge in the rough edges, again gring a file to the needed proile and scrape of the high spots, make a profiled sanding block and procede. PITA but historic. A lot easer with thrawls and indencherd servants tho 

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I like that Gladius, looks great.  Is that a hole at the tip of the blade?  Or just a black mark?

 

​Thanks! I had a bar that was maybe 3/4" wide and 1/4" thick, with a hole at one end to start with. I figured I'd forge it out or cut that end off but the way i forged it made a perfect teardrop shaped hole. It was just a happy accident!

Good points all around Charles, I'll definitely give those methods a shot. A stop on the fullering tool would help immensely, that's been the problem is keeping the fuller centered. I always seem to underestimate how much a block of wood and some sandpaper can do. Thank you.

Edited by Kette

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With double edges you have to flip the blade or turn it 180. Or you still get thangs off center if you edges arnt perfectly parellel ot your tang is off center. 

My recomendation would be one pass, then role the blade over and make a second pass, turn the blade 180 (swap end for end with out rolling) make a third pass the. Roll the blade over again and make a forth pass. Repeat as necisary to rough in the fuller. With practus you should be able to free hand it, and just roll the blade for each pass. 

Whet and dry has some advantages over the stones used by our for fathers

Edited by Charles R. Stevens

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Here  is one just finished a  Owakizashi it was a collaboration with a friend .its  2nd pic and last pic.

few blades 001.JPG

New Wakizashi 001.JPG

silcon steel  wakizashi.jpg

few blades 003.JPG

New Wakizashi 040.JPG

Edited by Bubbasan

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