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Limits of Metal Cutting Circular Saw Blades ???


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The circular saw really will not like thick stuff.

I use a 14" carbide chopsaw for steel section (Evolution Raptor at about 1500 RPM). It loves thin stuff but hates thick stuff. It is very noticeable when cutting something like 80 x 80 x 5mm square section (about 3" x 3" x 3/16") that it takes MUCH longer to get through the top and bottom horizontal bits than it does through the vertical bits. It seems to dislike having multiple teeth in the cut. It is supplied with a gizmo that slips onto the vise jaw and holds square section at 45 degrees so that it only sees thin section. It makes things much faster.

I did cut some 95 x 45mm forklift tines with it (they were not very hard: probably HT'd primarily to increase the yield point) and wrecked most of the teeth in maybe 8 cuts: call it 34,200 sqmm. There was a lot of cool-down time involved and it was done over most of a day.

You are looking at making 2 cuts in 35 x 225mm : call it 15,750 sqmm. 

Roughly half the cut area, probably easier material to cut. Against that is a blade about half the diameter and turning at over 3 times the speed to give a much higher SFM.

If you are lucky, I'd think you might get away with one blade (and maybe a set of brushes). If unlucky, you'll lunch both the blade and the saw. I wouldn't like to bet either way.

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I don't know if the OP is still interested in answers to his question but here it goes for what it is worth ...

To cut that thick plate, a circular metal cutting blade is perhaps the less appropriate tool, even less if run on a woodcutting circular saw ... yet it can be used in a pinch.

The way to cut thick plate as stated by Arftist is by cutting  on the edge and not on the face. You must engage the least possible number of teeth at the same time to increase the pressure on each and to allow for cooling. 

I cut that material on the cold saw and it is slow.

However since the invention of thin kerf grinding wheels, cutting thick plate is no longer a challenge. Get yourself a good quality 5" or 6" angle grinder,  (we don't have 6" but 7" and then 9". 9" requires some experience and big arms)  ... then ...  non chinese 1mm or 2mm cutting wheels, and go real slow. Use face shield and leave the guard where it is. Cuts through it like butter. 

Or ... get yourself an abrasive cut off saw. They are noisy and dirty but cheap and effective. 



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  • 2 weeks later...

If you only have the option to use tools on hand, this changes things..  

I have a Steelmax 14" cut off saw, a Milwaukee 8" metal saw and a Milwaukee 6 7/8" battery metal saw..  The metal to be cut was too big for the smaller saws so made an adapter so I could use the Steelmax 14" as a hand saw..   It cut very nicely I think it was 2"X 20" or the like.. I had to cut 2 pieces..    It worked well enough with pushing, then wait, push then wait..  Not sure it was needed but it's what I did so not to over load the motor..  

Both cuts were done and only 5 teeth got knocked off the huge blade.. LOL.. Reason why I share this is it was 100+ for a blade.. But it was all I had at the time that would do the job..  I didn't have the contour bandsaw yet and the torch tip was to small and was not as accurate.. 

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