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The biggest obstacle when welding cast are the different coefficients of expansion of the metals being welded. The weld cools slower than the cast, so it wants to rip away at the edges as it shrinks during cooling. Peening the weld as it cools-short beads-will keep the edges attached since you are spreading the weld widthwise when peening. Preheats depend on thickness. Post heats are mandatory. I use the gray wood ashes from a woodstove in a cut down 55 gallon drum for my annealing, and slow cooling cast items.

Exhaust manifolds are just a pain most of the time. Some are non weldable grades of cast, while others have been burned out from the heat.

Not all cast is weldable. White grades are not. Another prep item is to remove the surface graphite my mechanical methods. I was shown to use a file, carbide burr, etc to do a weld prep on cast. Never a grinder for the final surface, as it just smeared the graphite around.

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Looks like I can get that hyspin 100 here ok.
I've sent Mike an email regarding his engine so look forward to hearing from him.
Bit of an update.........
I spoke to the 2nd owner of the hammer the other day (I bought it off the third) and he has the motor mounting plate and is looking for the original manual.
He put a tender in for it when the Napier Hatbour Board closed their workshops, it was used for repairs to the dredge creating the harbour itself.
He said this was 25 odd years ago and he used to have it sitting on display in his shed, then parked it outside when the shed was used for other things.
So it's sat idle for a long time.

I have also scored a 1960s 47hp International Harvester petrol engine from my father who collects this stuff (IHC only).
It was used to power a combine harvester and is fitted with a large V belt pulley.
It's got a stuck valve and needs a few minor things to get it going by the look of it and its fitted with a radiator and 12v electric start.

Any idea what rpm the electric motors run at?
Just to give me a starting point.
Jason

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Great news about the motor plate that will save you a day, and the hammer will look the part.

 

About 20 years ago the motor plate came off my 3cwt and I polished it all up and put it in a safe place in readiness to put it back on….looked around for it this evening can't find it anywhere. I have an idea the motor is slower than the 1420 standard, I will put a tape over the flywheel and the pinion tomorrow, I think the 3cwt hammer should run at 150 blows per minute, so we should be able to work it back.

 

The 1cwt Alldays has its motor plate and I have just read off that the motor does 710rpm. The 1cwt hammer runs at 200bpm I think…I will have to look it up on the ifi website, some bloke posted the spec sheets recently… :)

 

Thinking about it you have your flywheel and pinion readily measurable on your machine so it will be easier for you to measure them, work out the ratio and multiply the bpm in the specification for the 2cwt (180?) to arrive at the motor speed.

 

If you are going to use the original motor spindle and frame for your lay shaft as I suggested earlier,  you have another belt and pulley opportunity to  correct any rpm differences you may encounter….

 

47hp sounds great. I would ditch the vee pulley and get a  crowned flat belt one which will drive straight onto the armature of the old motor. 

 

Having finally engaged brain and thinking about it again, have you looked on the motor plate of your original motor for the rpm by any chance?

 

Alan

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The motor plate looks to have been removed a long time ago, but I'll have a measure up and see what I come up with.
I'm a fair way off getting all this set up as I have a pile of hardwood poles in the way, to be used on other projects around the property and some earthworks to be done, but it's good to get everything together and ready for when the time comes.
Thanks,
Jason

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I am glad you sorted that, save me grubbling around in amongst the oil underneath the guard!

 

I have been tidying up some scans of the Massey fliers I have with a view to posting them. I have cleared it with John N. I have the spec sheets and the very detailed installation flier. The latter has various designs of mounting and sealing the anvil block using the pourable silicone stuff from Walkers. Also some useful descriptions of concrete specification. They are what I used to base the 3cwt Alldays foundation design on.

 

I will try and get them posted up in the next few days.

 

Unfortunately we had a bit of a disaster here on Friday night a big Ash tree got blown over onto two of our outbuildings, smacking the roof and knocking out the walls, and just to add insult to injury the tree's root bowl lifted the floor and took out the block wall of the building it blew away from :(  The weekend was spent clambering over piles of blocks and gingerly putting in Acro props to hold the remains up while I tried to get the vulnerable kit out and into dry and secure paces…not so many of those available now! I have found very little kit damage so far. There were four 12v batteries and a high tech charger behind the root bowl wall, and luckily the floor lifted first, the batteries slid away and then the wall collapsed onto itself avoiding the batteries and leaving the tool racks and the charger on the new top level! Phew.

 

Alan

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We have not heard back from the insurance company yet, I dare say they are quite busy with storm damage claims.

I suppose everything is reparable to some extent. Any money may be better spent building a mezzanine into the new forge I am building here though. Getting the tree cleared safely is the current worry. Luckily, apart from the buildings, the only expensive item damaged beyond repair I have found so far is a little oil-less air compressor, that and a leisure battery for the electric fence and some long handled tools. Just hope we can get the place weather tight so there is no further damage from that.

Pictures for fun...in a weak attempt at justification of diverting Jason's thread I have included mainly ones which have blacksmithing content...apart from the pics 4&5 showing how they used to make Ghetto blasters to last twenty five years ago! The ghetto blaster and the aluminium shelving held up the roof long enought for me to get an Acro in place! New forge building frame in background (pic1), Massey 5cwt (pics1&2) and a couple of anvils I was storing for a friend (pic3).

Alan

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Edited by Alan Evans
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We are doing fine, thank you for your concern. We will definitely be warm and cosy for the next few years!

 

Looks like the insurance are playing fair and were happy for us to go with the first quote for the tree removal,  £1245 plus VAT provided that I use my little telehandler to tidy the logs and lift the trunks off the buildings. The arborists are going to hire in a cherry picker and it will most likely be one from the access equipment hire business owned by the husband of IFI's very own Beth. I called Beth just after it happened and Rob came out the next day to advise, 'twas he that recommended the tree surgeons who have given us quotes.

 

When we can safely get into the buildings we can get a handle on the damage to them. Just a few extra days/weeks out of our lives by the time it is all over, could of been so much worse….

 

Amazing really, it must of happened in a few seconds and the aftermath is out of all proportion.

 

In order not to sidetrack your 2cwt thread further though I will keep you posted on the "everything else" forum.

 

Alan

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  • 2 weeks later...

Picked up the engine today, turns out its a 55hp.
Finished cleaning the tup up and refitted it to check the clearances, 0.009"- 0.011" with a feeler blade up the side, throughout the bore, top and bottom of the tup, without the guide wedge in place.
And the piston has 0.016".
Seems good for the 0.001" per inch rule.

Jason

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What is on the back end of the motor? Clutch? Hydraulic pump? Gearbox?

 

Charles Normandale has a fast and loose flat belt system driving his 1cwt Alldays. Makes for a lovely quiet shop. No chuff and the hammer is obviously not cycling so less wear. The only sound when waiting for the bar to heat is the hum of the motor and the slap of the belt. As he walks over from the fire he slides the belt over and engages the drive.

 

A way to disengage your drive would be an advantage, not least for starting up loads.

 

Alan

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It's just a bell housing with a shaft and 2 pulleys.
Dads not too keen on giving up the other one with the clutch setup.
He does have other engines of that size that have clutches and gearboxes, so I'm going to see what I can adapt as this housing has the holes in it for a release fork.
This came off a wind rower or combine and they had a lever to tension the belt which might work too.
Do you have any photos of the flat belt setup Alan?

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