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I Forge Iron

W2 Fighter with 3D printed bronze guard


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Howdy guys,

It's been a  while since I've posted - been busy at the new job. Had the opportunity to wrap up this puppy; W2 with hamon, cocobolo scales, 3D printed bronze guard and pommel, brass and copper fittings.

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I'm very happy with the results, although my fit n finish needs some more work; some bits still bother me, but I'm living with it. 

Experimenting with 3D printing has been a blast. I think this is probably my best application of it to knifemaking yet.

Comments and critique appreciated,

Theo

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Nice looking knife, might I ask how it functions as a "fighter"? Where is the point of balace? How dose the handle feel in the clasic grips? Why did you chose a drop point as aposed to a more traditinal upswept point? Personaly If it "comes to hand" as a fighting knife should, I would be proud to carry it.

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Thank yall :)

Here's a couple pics of the process. Wish I had taken pics of the insides of the guard before pinning... you can make out the hollow in the pommel, basically the guard has similar integral hollows but with cross-structures so it is still strong.

The balance point is at the pointer finger, but the grip can be shifted downwards or up to accommodate the user. It may be too light to really cleave, but it's awful fast. What's your opinion on the subject?

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If your interested in cleaving, a kukkrie or an axe is a lot more handy, slashing and stabing are a knifes fortay, the balance being back makes the knive feel faster, a nerow point aids in penitration (but I routinely "stab" pigs with an old school skinner) wile a curve aids in the cuting action of a slash.
Most people are confortable "pointing" a knife. So typicaly if you can imagine holding the knife like forging hammer and "pointing" your thumb at your target. So the tip being close to the spine works well. This dosnt precluse other grips that certainly have thier place, over hand, underhand, blade forward, blade back etc.
In a knife fight slashing your opponents hands and forarms are #1, if you can disarm or intagle then a stab might be in order, but often because of grip slashes at the forhead , abdomen, joints or areas wear major vesels are at the serface. Typicaly stabing is best used agaist unarmed aponents, as trying for a killing stroke exposes you to counterattack. If you try to stab me, i'm either going to do one of Three things, sidestep/retreat, block/lock or close. All of theis moves will be falowed by a counter attack. Slashing the ligaments in the back or your hand or rist will end a knife fight faster than stabbing you in the belly.
In the end, I have a very spacific definition of a "fighter" as a knife optimised for the taking of another persons life in either a heads to head conflict or from ambush or as a defensive tool to discorage some one from doing the same to me. Not a knarly looking wall hanger. The knife you present realy only concernes me with the finger notch making more confortable in on or two grips. But as I cant hold it I might be wrong. Otherwise it is well desighned, executed and finised. I even belive lithile.

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So you printed the part sin plastic and then cast them in metal?  Or do you have the capability to print/sinter metals directly?

 

Either way, it's cool!  More pics of the process please!

 

~Steve

 

I am curious about this as well.

 

BTW, you folks know waaaay to much about knife fighting. Not sure I want to dink beer where you guys drink LOL

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  • 5 weeks later...

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