Rusty style power hammer foundation and more

[Mr.M]

I am collecting all the steel to build a rusty PH. The baseplate I am thinking of 2'x3' but I'm not sure if I should use 1.5" plate or if 1" is good enough. (I'm shooting for 80+lbs on the ram)
The floor in the metalworking side of my shop is dirt. Will the hammer be ok just on some 6x6 in the dirt?
Now for the anvil, how high should it be? The sketches I've seen have them at about 32".

[arftist]

3" plate would be better.

1 1/2" is good enough. 

[Dahlia's Daddy]

The more metal you have as a base the better, it is going to add stability to the hammer overall.  If the hammer moves at all while operating you are losing energy that could have been used to move your metal instead of moving the entire powerhammer.  The same things that go for a hand forging anvil go for a powerhammer anvil and baseplate, only there is a much bigger hammer moving much faster.  Wood can also be used, and I think making a larger, thick wood platform to bolt the baseplate to may help with stability.

 

On height, don't forget to add the distance of the bottom die.  Nice thing about dirt though is that if your anvil is too tall for comfort you can always bring out the pick n shovel and lower your hammer!

[Mr.M]

With the 1-1/2" plate and the 6" anvil it is going to end up pretty close to 1000lbs I'm thinking. I hope I don't have to move it often :p

[Mr.M]

So what is the best height to the top of the bottom die? I haven't used a power hammer so I don't really have anything to go on. I'm almost thinking 36" (waist height) would be good.

[ptree]

I have my similar hammer on a about 3/4" thick baseplate. Mine is however on a 24" thick concrete foundation which sits on hardpan(degraded limestone. I placed 1/4" thick urathane conveyor belting between the base and the foundation as a cushion. Has worked well that way since 2002. I have increased the ram and anvil as more metal became available and am now at 70# for the ram.

Anvil height is a function of YOUR height. Shoot to have the working die height where you can comfortable stand straight with the billet at about waist height.

Something to consider, that I did not, is spacer blocks under the bottom die. Then you can pull the spacer remount the die and accomadate thicker work than the normal stroke adjustment available on these designs.

[Mr.M]

Thanks ptree! I like the thought about the spacer block.

[beslagsmed]

My anvil is about waist high.  I think no matter how thick the base plate is, you should have a way to anchor it down.  Have some holes in the corners, then drive some metal rods in the ground at aposing angles to keep it from walking.  Mine is on a concrete floor and I got it attached, but have a piece of rubber matting between the hammer base and floor.  I think a dirt floor might be the same.  And if not holes, then you can drive rods round the outside edge. 

[Stormcrow]

The thicker the baseplate, the more energy is going into moving the steel rather than getting dispersed through flexing the machine.  My 100 lber flexes its 1 1/2" base.  If you have access to thicker plate, use it.  And tying it to the ground somehow is going to be a good idea too.

 

A lot of older power hammer seem built mighty low to me.  I really don't like having to bend down to use a hammer, especially with herniated disks in my lumbar.  My suggestion is to make the anvil a height that you are comfortable standing upright at.

[2ndChanceCowboy]

Very well stated Stormcrow. Can't disagree on that issue of working with iron heights on hammers. Guess guys with spinal conditions view matters somewhat differently. Yet most working in this field will have shared injuries with similar opinions at some point.
The less bending forward the better in my book. Yet that's only from my position too, not a given.

Whatever works for you, is certainly the best advice overall. I tend to work differently as I progress with the work pieces an their weight n mass.

Probably wish at some point I'd have a robotic arm to assist me would really be sweet. An actually going to progress thoughts into such methods. Yet I too was always going to live off the coast of Brazil with my honey. An doing the opposite obviously. Smile.
Love hearing ideas an views from all here. As it really gives thoughts to our own perspectives of how we do n approach our work methods. An really don't feel anyones thoughts are incorrect. If you want it that way n it works good. Run with your choice, you can most often change them too.

Anyhow, enjoy hearing everyones views regardless. For its actually influenced my perception a few times. Happy we all have IForgeIron as our ground team n support staff. Now if they'd just arm the A10 Warthog we'd get real results.lol. Joking,,, Keep forging an never look back.

[ptree]

Base plate being thick is not critical. Only Metal nearly in line with the hammer blow really counts.Big old drop hammers in industry have trunicated prymids for anvil and sub plate as well as base. If the metal is at a right angle to the blow not a lot of help.