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I Forge Iron

Hammer eye punch

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My Forging Industry Handbook, Cleveland, Ohio, 1970, lists representative materials for forging. Torsion bars are in the 1060's; 1070's; 1080's; and including 1090 and 1095. Also listed is 4150 and 51-B-60. I realize this may not help you much, but it's always a crap shoot when dealing with unknowns. The same book lists seven different spring steel alloys. Auto springs are not all 5160, as some seem to think.

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Yes, I have used torsion bars to make Hammer Eye punches.

I start with a slitting punch made from either H-13 or S-7 and then open it up to size with the torsion bar drifts.

I drill 3 - 1/4" pilot holes, 1/4" between them, to start with. This controls that your handle hole will be where you want it, not having to chase it back.

I drill from both sides. This stops the wander.



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I disagree with the drilling procedure UNLESS you cannot use a striker. The amount of metal lost by drilling, right down the center axis of round will remove a lot of metal. Learning to use a penetrator type tool (see Brian Brazeal) and in two heats the amount of metal lost will be similar to a toe-nail clipping.


But what the hay, if you want to drill to control what you might be learning to do with a striker is okay with me. In fact it is not so difficult to make that penetration when used by the proper shaped tools. Exotic metal are not necessary. Better metals are appreciated, as per Mr frank T's reminding us that not everything is at it appears.


Personally I really like to use torsion bars from GM Tahoe- type vehicles (Z-71 stuff). Those rods are about 1.3 inch in diameter. They are about 5 feet long and offer a lot for the price one pays the junkyard. Many are torch cut on one end as they were more quickly removed that way. The reason they had been replaced is from being "over-sprung" and not returning to an acceptable adjustment. Great for us, bad for the truck owner.


David G



carry on

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