Brett652 Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 I learned a lot from reading these threads. Thank you for all of the good information! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakersteve Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 What type of steel did you use? Are the pins mushroomed brass? Hard to tell because pics are small. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett652 Posted April 25, 2014 Author Share Posted April 25, 2014 The blade is 1095. The grips are oak. I made the rivets from brass bolts - cut down to size and then peened out with a hammer. I used five or six coats of polyeurethane on the grips (fine sanding in between, of course). I started assembling knives from store-bought blades a couple of years ago. This is the first blade I made myself. "He who is self-taught has a fool for a pupil." If anyone has any words of wisdom for me, I would be deeply appreciative. My previous next-door neighbor installed floors for a living, and he said that his preferred adhesive for wood-to-metal was Gorilla Glue. I used that for most of the dozens of knives I've assembled. I like it because it expands as it dries, so any tiny empty spaces are filled up. I've used epoxy on a few and haven't noticed that it works any better. Some of the knives I assembled have seen very regular use as kitchen knives for over a year and I have seen no problems with the adhesive so far. Maybe I am missing something. I have assembled a lot of knives with laminate grip materials, but have been disappointed at how it can develop small cracks during assembly or after dozens of journeys through the dishwasher. I have had very few similar problems assmbling hardwood grips, and no problems at all during use or numerous trips through the dishwasher. I'm assuming maybe it's because the wood has a little bit of "give" or "spring" to it? Maybe my problems with the laminate are due to my ignorance or ineptitude. I love an oil finish on wooden grips, but it won't hold up to kitchen use (I'm assuming that dishsoap affects it). I didn't know what else to use, so I started using about six coats of polyeurethane. A lot of use in the kitchen and a lot of runs through the dishwater have not seemed to affect it. I'm not sure if there is something better I should/could be using, or if polyeurethane is generally considered to be acceptable. Thanks to everyone for your wonderful and helpful site. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakersteve Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Thanks for response - 1095 can be tricky to harden - What was your quenchant? I know what you mean about kitchen knives and washing - My family is 'trained' that my knives dont spend soak time when being washed. They was with warm soapy water, rinse well, then dry and apply light coat of veg oil. I hesitate to say 'train' because if my wife saw that she might help 'unbuild' my knives with a hammer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett652 Posted April 25, 2014 Author Share Posted April 25, 2014 I quenched it in used motor oil. That's all I had at the time, but after reading some threads here I know that I should use some kind of vegetable oil next time. I heated the blade up until it was orange and (obviously) non-magnetic, then I quenched it. After it was cleaned off I put it in the oven at 450 for two hours, let it cool slowly, then did the same again. I haven't been able to chip or break it by chopping branches or prying pavestones, so hopefully it is hard enough. I made it for very heavy use, more of a garden tool than a regular knife. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakersteve Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 With motor oil and 1095, you will get some hardening, but most people I talk to say the either ATF or Parks50? are the choice for 1095. Anyhow, looks good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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