Frozenshrimp Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 This is my first rr spike knife it took me 30 minutes to forge it and 6 1/2 hrs for grinding and sanding. It has some flaws but turned out pretty good for my first one. Thanks for any comments and suggestions for future knife projects... frozenshrimp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakersteve Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 It came out nice, now use real high carbon steel for your next Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Very nice job of finishing! The odd & looking rail clips can have twice the carbon content of a spike and so can actually be nicely heat treated. Car coil and leaf spring can also make decent blades---also at twice the carbon content of a HC spike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGJEEPMAN Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Looks good. I have made 3, 1 looks real good, 1 looks almost like what I want and the last one looks bad. I am not upset with the results because these are my first forge knives. I cant wait to clean them up. I hope mine look as good as yours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpankySmith Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Very nice work there. I agree with above post that recommends using High Carbon steel. Your work deserves to be put into something that has good knife qualities. HC spikes don't have enough carbon to do the job you want.....do yourself a favor and forge on good known steels......Your knives will thank you. Keep at it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admanfrd Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Leaf spring is awful stuff... I dont recommend it even if you are getting paid to take it. Lets see a photo of your work, I do not believe we have ever seen anything from you except advise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frozenshrimp Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 Thanks guys for the kind words and the excellent advice. I have a ton of rr spikes but I'm working on getting my stock up of other metals, been able to get some that has been painted (from a old forklift cage) and don't know if I can use it and I'm sure I will have to strip the paint off before I can use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camero68 Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Looks great, very clean and has a great finish. Impressive for a first, you're off to a great start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 If you can get some old files you can forge weld in a piece for the cutting edge. Just remember how you heat treat will be different compared to HT'ing a RR spike. You'll want to quench in oil vs. ice water and temper for a straw color vs. only tempering for stress relief. RR spike knives are fun and they sell well because they're a novelty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 I doubt a cage will be high carbon; it's only used where it's absolutely needed; best it might be would be a chrome moly medium carbon and quite likely mild steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Late model cars and trucks used 5160 for leaf springs.....5160 will make a good knife. As well as coil springs.....most usually 1084ish.....will also make good knives. If you are unsure of your spring materials shop testing will determine it's worthiness as a knife steel. And I will gladly be paid to take anyone's leaf springs.......Just one opinion. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 If you are used to working mild steel, spring will be a surprise as it is harder under the hammer and you do have to pay attention to not getting it too hot or forging it too cold. Why I tell folks that "practicing" making blades with mild steel isn't! I suggest that people just starting on knife forging take a good auto coilspring and have it cut down opposing sides to produce a dozen "(" pieces and then they can forge a dozen blades from the same exact steel and learn how it works and then learn how to heat treat it and TEST the results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frozenshrimp Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 Thanks everybody for the great info. I just got a set of strut springs from a friend and I will try my hand at doing one out of them will keep you all posted. Thanks again frozenshrimp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 Cut off a small piece from that spring and first test to see if it air hardening,,,,,if so you will have to anneal in order to drill if you plan to make a full tang....Forge on and be safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frozenshrimp Posted May 16, 2014 Author Share Posted May 16, 2014 Thanks Loneforge will try that as soon as my arm heals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 Most automotve leaf springs make fine cutting edged tools..just make sure you test a sample piece from each leaf as Lone suggested above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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