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Newbie Female - Emerson vs Carroll vs TFS


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Hi all, I'm new here, 50+ year old female just getting into blacksmithing after taking a class and getting absolutely SMITTEN by it all.  I've got tools, a line on a forge, everything but an anvil!  Haven't had ANY luck at all locally trying to find a good used one and so I'm leaning toward new, but only have about $500 MAX to spend.   I've looked around at Emerson, Caroll and TFS anvils all around the 100-125 pound range, have read everything I can find about all of them, but basically I'm just coming here for your opinions.    Centaur Forge carries all of them with free shipping, they're all fairly similarly priced - I'd just really like to hear from folks who have actually used these.   Any help will be appreciated!

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My wife got me the 300lb. TFS double horn for Christmas a few years ago.  I am very happy with and would definitely consider another if I was in the market.  She got it through Pieh Tool and Amy there took really good care of her.  Good Luck.

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Thanks, reviews on the TFS seem to range widely, it was difficult for me to get a handle on whether it was a good one or not.  I can't find ANY reviews of the Carroll except one mention here in this venue that someone had one and liked it.   Emerson yielded about the same results in my quest for info.  That's why I figured I'd post here and hopefully get some first hand info.  I'm in Alabama, have a possible line on a used Wright or Mouse Hole, both about the same weight range, but priced close to what one of these 3 new ones would be, so I'm torn.  

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If I might, those are all farriers anvils, meaning they are optimized for adjusting horse shoes. Not to say you won't find a use for the turning cams or the clip horn, but most of the mass is in the horn and heal, with a nerro waist.
Not that you can't forge over the 4" sweet spot, as I use a a pair of JHM's, I know. Another factor is that most farrier anvils are cast of ductile cast iron. Not a bad material for an anvil, but not optimal.
As to "free shipping" you might look at the pendinghaus anvil, any rigid tool dealer can order one, even your local home depo.
But then again look at "The Tommas Powers Anvil Accusation Technique" excellent advice on finding an anvil
Lastly look at the "improvised" anvils and knife making anvils. As Mr. Powers is fond of pointing out, the London pattern anvil is only a couple of hundred years old.
For now, a 20# sledge hammer head from your local flea market and a 2"broken truck axel from your local heavy truck shop will get you going for that mater a bale spear from your local feed store.
This gives you breathing space to either find an anvil or buy the one you want.

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Emmerson and TFS have blacksmith anvils in addition to their farrier anvils. The Emmersons are made from 4140 steel not ductile iron. I think the Emmerson in the Traditional patter would made a fine anvil for blacksmithing. Howerver I would save for a larger on that what you can get in the $500 price range.

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Here are the links to the one's I'm looking at.    I appreciate the input, the reply that pointed out the issue with where the bulk of the weight sits in farrier versus blacksmithing was helpful, didn't know that!  The Emerson is the only one of the three here where the listing actually mentions it's composition.  

 

 

http://www.centaurforge.com/Emerson-100-lb-Traditional-Anvil-with-Turning-Cams-Eligible-for-Free-Shipping-See-Home-Page-for-full-details/productinfo/EMERSON100/

 

http://www.centaurforge.com/Cliff-Carroll-125-lb-Anvil-Eligible-for-Free-Shipping-See-Home-Page-for-full-details/productinfo/18CC-125/

 

http://www.centaurforge.com/100-lbs-TFS-Blacksmith-Anvil-Single-Horn/productinfo/79520/

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I know you mentioned your in alibama, if you update your profile, every one will know where yo are and some one loa all may have a lead for you.
TTPAAT basically says to tell every one your looking for one even the lady next to you at the hair dressers, never know who is tripping over great uncle johns old anvil.
If I remember right, there is a pretty active Association down your way, join and ask them, no tellin what they might have. Most of us try to help each other, and are enamored by the thought of a lady smith (your certainly not the only one, smiths like Beth hold there own) and will go out if our way for a guy, but an extra mile for a lady.

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Yup, joining the local Forge Council later this month when they have their meeting.   Trust me, I've pestered everyone from co-workers to church folks to near total strangers asking after the anvil in grampa's back barn!  I'm pretty certain every person I know and a bunch i don't know are aware I'm looking for one.   I haven't updated my profile 'cause I was just lurking for a while, reading posts like a maniac.  I will get it updated.   The instructor in the first course I recently took graciously sent out an email to everyone in the council asking if they had a spare for sale, I've gotten a few hits on Vulcans (passed on those, haven't heard anything good about them at all), but still have that lead on one guy with a used Mouse Hole and a used Peter Wright, both about 125 pound range @ about $350.  He's out on vacation so I figured this was a good week to weigh the pros and cons of used versus new. 

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The guy with the mousehole mentioned it has a "small belly" and I wasn't familiar with exactly what that meant?    He said the Wright had some work done on the face, in the photo he sent the face on that looks better than the mousehole, which looks to have some serious gouges (not just nicks) out of the front edge.   Anyone know what the "ringing" quality of these two is?  I'll be working in the backyard initially, in a neighborhood without any zoning or whatever restrictions, but still really don't want to xxxx off the neighbors.  I know mounting it on the stand properly can dampen that a good deal.  

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They should/will ring.  You can dampen it way down with proper set up.  The squat moushole will tend to ring less than the elongate "tuning fork" american anvils of the latter 19th century: Trentons, A&Hs, HBs, etc.  Of course for a real quiet anvil right off the git go the Fisher is the best followed by the Vulcan---but with a pretty big quality gap between them.

 

If you will have a stable set up buying a ringing anvil and mounting it so it doesn't will be fine.  If you will be moving things around often then a quiet anvil to start might be preferred.

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Read good things on the Fisher's, but they're also too high for my entry-level budget.   

 

BTW, the photo I posted for my profile is the blacksmithing shop of my great-grandfather's brother.  My mom just gave me that photo this weekend when she found out I was launching into novice blacksmith world.  Apparently it runs in the family, which I thought was pretty cool. 

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There is an antique guy near Double Springs/Cullman who has a lot of smaller anvils (75-100lb), but like most people like him his prices are a good bit higher than they should be. However he told me he has too many and said he needs to get rid of some, so you may can haggle him down. The biggest problem is I can't remember his name or anything, but you may can find it via googling.

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My main shop anvil is a Fisher that I had to pay US$350 for; about 68 cents a pound.  Found it in Columbus OH and never had to leave city limits.  Say rather that you have not found one in your budget---yet...

 

So what happened to your kinfolks anvil?  (I recently talked with a woman in her late 80's at church who was telling me that her Father had immigrated to the USA in 1929 bringing his anvil with him; but it had been stolen and taken to Mexico since then.  Another 89 year old  lady in our church has an anvil in her shed that I've asked about...we're in an anvil poor area too.)

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No idea, didn't even know there was a blacksmith in the family until my mom happened to mention it.  He died in 1930 in Indiana, one of YOU Yanks might be working on his old anvil for all I know!   :D   

 

I was down in Cullman a week ago, couldn't find an anvil anywhere.  Double Springs is in the opposite direction of Cullman, no idea the name of the place or person?   That's an easy drive for me, but Double Springs is pretty spread out, no idea what's up there anvil-wise.   If you Google antiques or flea markets in Cullman you get roughly 7 zillion listings, they're all over the place!   I think I visited most of the ones in Cullman but may have missed something if it's there that he has a shop?  No idea name of him or the shop?

 

Hey, I really do appreciate all the input!

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Yes I have friends that own multiple Vulcans.  I do not prefer them to other brands but I do consider them in the bracket of "real anvils".  What I don't like is all the people trying to sell them at top of the line anvil prices as they were the "economy model" when they were produced and originally sold---a lot of schools used them.

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The same guy with the mousehole and wright had a Vulcan in the 100-125 pound range that he offered for $100.   I've read a lot bad about the Vulcans but some also say don't turn your nose up at them. The asking price on that one was $100, he said he'd used it as a loaner for buddy's for years.   How do you tell a bad Vulcan from a good Vulcan?   

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No idea, didn't even know there was a blacksmith in the family until my mom happened to mention it.  He died in 1930 in Indiana, one of YOU Yanks might be working on his old anvil for all I know!   :D   

 

I was down in Cullman a week ago, couldn't find an anvil anywhere.  Double Springs is in the opposite direction of Cullman, no idea the name of the place or person?   That's an easy drive for me, but Double Springs is pretty spread out, no idea what's up there anvil-wise.   If you Google antiques or flea markets in Cullman you get roughly 7 zillion listings, they're all over the place!   I think I visited most of the ones in Cullman but may have missed something if it's there that he has a shop?  No idea name of him or the shop?

 

Hey, I really do appreciate all the input!

 

I can't really remember. I just remember coming up on his ole antique shop in the middle of no where. I can't remember what road it was on, but I think it was east of the Bankhead National forest, so it would be closer to Cullman than Double Springs. Maybe along HWY 278?

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Due to health issues, my forging days are few.  

At this time I am giving away and selling all of my shop tools.

I have given away 4 anvils in the past three months, but I need to sell the others I have. 

I actually have a 150 pound Emerson anvil (never been used). I got quite sick right after a got it. 

It would be of no value to you due to shipping charges.

I paid way over $800.00 for it, but I am selling it for $600.00 

 

I am suggesting that you wait a little longer, save your money and consider buying an anvil that weighs at least 150 pounds.

I found that at least a 150 pounder was stout enough for most work that I did when I was in business.

I wish you the best of luck in finding one.

Save up a little more money for a short time, and be happier for a long time!  :) 

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The basics of evaluating an anvil are rebound, rebound, rebound ;-).

 

Well, rebound, physical damage (torch gouges, chips, broken horn / heel, etc) and thickness of top plate (on old anvils, new ones are single metal), but rebound is the most important.

 

Even an anvil with lots of damage to edges is very serviceable as long as the rebound is good and you have a few inches of good edge on either side over the base. Price should go down accordingly, so you might consider it a good deal.

 

You can test rebound by "dropping" a ball bearing next to a ruler and seeing how far it bounces (70% return is okay). That's semi-scientific. I prefer to test by tapping / bouncing my hammer because it detect thin or de-laminated top plate. The light bearing can be "fooled" by those. But to do that, you need a decent subjective feel for your hammer rebound.

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Thanks, all.  Arcc, I found an online listing for an out of the way shop off 278 in Cullman that I did not visit, may wander back down that way this weekend.   Eric, I was born with a hammer in my hand!   LOL!   Seriously though, I've spent the last 15 years renovating my own house, I think it's those hammer skills that made blacksmithing so attractive and natural feeling for me.  I may be the one woman in Alabama who understands the phrase "hammer rebound"!   :D    I appreciate everyone's advice.  I'm going to get back in touch with the guy who has the Mousehole, Vulcan and Wright when he gets back from vacay - he's about an hour away from me but it'd be worth the drive up there to take a look I think.       In the meantime I'm pouring over "The Backyard Blacksmith," a recommended book that coincidentally was penned by a woman Smithey.   Gotta love it!

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Okay, this is probably the stupid question of the day....    while I totally understand the "bounce" test on anvils, here's where I'm having difficulty... where in the WORLD does one acquire a ball bearing?   I assumed in the casual way that everyone talked about it I could walk into the local big box hardware store and find one....   not.    Where does one go for such a creature?   I need to get hands on one before the weekend when I resume my anvil search in earnest.   Tried Lowes and they just gave me a look like I was losing my mind... "why would anyone want ONE ball bearing?"    sigh.....

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