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A new guillotine; the concept with 3d model and materials


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This guillotine tool is designed to be separately mounted from an anvil and hold hardy tools on the top and bottom, eliminating the need for dies.

 

Here's a cad model with sizes

 

https://tinkercad.co...ngs/b6sDtWok5LU

 

post-1-0-55325300-1395779764_thumb.png

 

sizes are in inches and are in the order of 

Length x width x height

these are the metal sizes and materials you will need

 

a welder, drill, threader, and hardy hole sized drift.

 

1| 2 x 2 x 1

2| 1 x 1 x 1

1| 3 x 3 x 1

4| 1 x 1 x 7

4| 5 x 1/2 x 1

4| 4 x 1/2 x 1

1| 7 3/4 x 4 3/4 x 1 1/2

 

I will have a step by step on youtube when i can afford the metal.

 

This will cost approximately $45.00 to make and a few days to construct.

 
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Perhaps you can do your step by step after you have done a bunch of them and show a good way to do it than a prototype way of doing it.

I know that the first time I do something is hardly ever the *best* time.

 

Never understood the "I've never done this before; so I'm going to show you how to do it..."  I much prefer the "I've done several hundreds of this and here are all the shortcuts and nifty ways to do it...)

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Greetings Adman,

 

I 'm a no understand the advantage...  I am sure most smiths have an inventory of bottom tools that are all different shapes and configurations.  Making a universal holder would be difficult ...   It is much easier to make a die set than trying to match one to your inventory of bottom tools. I will look forward to a proto type ...  

 

 

Forge on and make beautiful things

Jim

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The point is to not have to have a striker for making hammers or punches or other large stock things. You can't hold the pice, a top tool, and sledge at the same time, so a guillotine to hold said tools, while you sledge it or hammer it, would be possible.

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He wants something to hold a top tool over a bottom tool so he can hit it with his hammer.

 

Fried Adam; does your design incorporate a method of keeping the upper die raised slightly to make it easy to insert the workpiece?

 

Unfortunately my tools vary wildly in size---even the ones with the exact same hardy stem size and so would be hard to use in a holder tool with a standard size gap for them.  If you make all yours "de novo" you could avoid that issue.

 

As a gedanken experiment  what about a variation on a spring fuller with a square hole for the bottom die to go into the hardy through it and then a sq hole on the top bar to hold a hardy tool on top?  However this has you hammering on the hardy stem---NOT good lab technique!  Making the upper hole to totally cover the hardy stem makes it much more massive and so bleeds energy in use.

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The depressions in older top and bottom tools are sunk hot around a master pattern and then hand chiseled and filed to perfection.  Alignment is at the contact point of the faces, not the base of the stems, and slight adjustment in location is provided via biomechanical feedback (does it look and feel right after the first few blows?)  You are re-inventing the wheel.  Actually forge stuff free hand for a thousand hours or so (half a year of full time work, 40 hours per week) and then decide if you need to solve this supposed die alignment problem.  

 

Honing an array of skills is great but forging instead of hours drilling, welding, and drawing in cad will make you a better blacksmith.

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Learning to forge is reinventing the wheel for me. No need to focus on just ONE thing. I don't judge on importance, I judge what I will do next based on how fun it will be. So lighten up and let me reinvent in peace. :)

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