jay_cat Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 This is a lantern hook I made for a local farm stand. I noticed 3 lanterns hanging from galvinized nails from beams at the farm stand and thought I would make them a gift. If he likes it, he may request more. I still have very little time at hammering metal so I like to stick to easy things like bottle openers and hooks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 May I suggest a 90* bend where the hammer can be used to drive the hook into a beam. Trying to hit a curved surface with a hammer ,,,, well ,,, not many people can do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay_cat Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 That was the goal. I need to slow down and enjoy the journey and refine the details. I only have a 5 or 6 sessions under my belt so far. Once my new house is up this summer I will have a deticated forging area in my detached garage so I can have more time to learn. Its like meditation for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chinobi Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Pretty slick :) nice twist and good graceful curves on it. If I may offer comments I would start the twist a little farther away from where the hook will be hammered on to drive the spike into the beam. Right now the twist will get damaged and flattened by hammering the spike in. You might have difficulty hammering it in because the spike ends in a largish curve, which makes directing hammer blows into the spike harder. I'm also curious if the environment they will live in is windy or not because the low point where the lantern rests seems very gentle and a stiff wind might be sufficient to push the lantern out of it. I think the recipient will be very impressed and grateful that you thought of them and gave them a hand made gift. Maybe they will give you some good fruits and veggies in trade :) draw up a sketch for a sign and bracket for their stand as well, maybe you can get a commission out of it too ;) Boy I'm slow posting from my phone XD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay_cat Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 I will have to refine this or make a few more. This will be indoors. The farmstand sells 100% grass fed meats and they have several lanterns hanging against the beams. They are trying to have a vintage look and I thought the lanerns nailed to the beams look bad and that I could help. I appreciate all the input. I want the gift to be as functional as possible. Others may ask where they got them and want one. They also have a full size bull statue that the owner said he would like a name tag made for it. So I want to give the nicest hook or hooks I can to encourage a possible commission for the name tag or other things do decorate the stand. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 It's a good looking drive, lantern hook Jaycat, a little refinement and it'll be a very marketable item. Glenn and Chinobi covered my main suggestions but I want to reinforce them. Drive hooks need a 90* bend where the hammer is to strike or the curve will absorb energy in a useless way. I like to go a bit farther by folding the bend to so it's double thick in line with the point but that's my thing. The lantern hook should be more pronounced for safety's sake. It's a barn and even if the wind doesn't blow inside things get knocked about and swung so sucurely held lanterns is a must. It's okay if it's a little hard to get the lantern loose, market it as a safety feature, you won't be sorry. I'd have to make one and check it with a lantern to tell but I'm always jumpy about a flame close to a wooden beam, especially old, dry, hay dusty and cobwebby ones. Were I to make lantern hooks the arm would be long enough no part of the lantern could touch or be closer than an inch or two from the beam. Of course being blacksmiths we can get away with making a reflector/heat shield from a large tin can end. All it'd need is a hole to drive the hook through and it'd be VERY authentic blacksmithery. More marketing features, Safety AND Period (traditional) quiche. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Greetings Jay, I have been collecting kerosene lanterns for 55 years ... About 360 at last count.. If you look at the construction of the lantern in your picture you will find that where the bail contacts the tube is a weak point.. The bail was not made for a holding point just for transport... In the case of your barn I would suggest a flat bottom shelf design for safety.. The shelf design keeps the lantern from swinging in the wind . Make up some nice hooks as the guys have suggested and use it for other things in you barn... You are doing just fine with your blacksmith skills.. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay_cat Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 I cleaned up the angle and gave a flat spot to hammer it in. If I would have taken an extra minute or two the first time it would have came out cleaner. Thanks for the tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 It sugjest changing your order of work just a bit. Do the bend first, but only to 45 deg. Then isolate the heat just to the bend so you can drive it into itself (upset) gives just a bi more meat at the bend. Then draw about your point, finish to 90 deg. A square boister wil help, but you can drive it into the pritchel hole if the spike is the right size to flatten the drive pint and refine the 90. Form the hook, then twist. One twist should be enugh (unless, like me you turn the hook the wrong way one in a wile ;-) As to the workmanship, good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Normally on a drive in hook, I would make them with a flat wedge point so they cut across grain when being driven in, don't tend to split the timber then as a four sided pointed taper does Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay_cat Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 My order of operations was not the most efficient. I was using my propane forge and i had to unbend and re-bend to heat the areas I wanted to. One of the reasons I like using my coal forge. The good news is the owner of the farm stand liked the idea of what i made and said he would use them. He also told me to leave him a card because people will ask where they can get one. I better get hammering so my work quality will increase. I am starting some one on one lessons next week. Charles, my pritchel hole is filled in solid. I've been planning on drilling it out. Also my anvil edges are all rounded so a square block would definitely help. I hope my errors will make other newbies more comfortable with there first projects. I know pics on here have helped me tons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashelle Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 here should be a link to a Mark Aspery video of a square corner bend. http://search.yahoo.com/r/_ylt=AwrSbmZ4UfhS2XwAhOJXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTEzczhocHJhBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMwRjb2xvA2dxMQR2dGlkA1NNRTM0Nl8x/SIG=12tjaah3f/EXP=1392034296/**http%3a//assets.calsmith.org/cba-cdn/414/Upset_Sqr_corner_bend_original.pdf Followed by a link to where the process is written out. You could also do the corner differently but these should show a way to do it. Hope they help. Rashelle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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