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I Forge Iron

Galvanising and powdercoat, inaccessible gaps and seams


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Hello all,

 

Relating to this thread:

 

I'm considering using countersunk screws, stitch welds or rivets (countersunk, welded and cleaned on the front at least)

 

Does anyone have any idea how this will behave with galv and powdercoat, given that there will be a seam along the part, or all of the bar.

Will the galv penetrate between the two component bars sufficiently or am i opening myself up to rusting problems down the line?

 

Thanks all!

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Galvanizing, powder coating will not penetrate. If I have a part like this I will apply a product called Penatrol in the problem areas after they have been galvanized, or powder coated. It is a paint additive but also is a excellent sealer and rust inhibitor. It can be found at Home Depot in the paint area. There is a sound alike product. Make sure you get Penatrol, the other is not the same and will not work. Not sure if it is available in the UK?

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Are you hot dip galvanizing or electrogalving?

 

You might consider soldering(silver) or brazing and cadmium plating? Also there are epoxy putties that will withstand the heat of the comeback that you can apply post beadblast. 

 

Ian

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Greetings Green,

 

Don't overlook the possibility of Hot dipping the components prior to bolting together..  After that you can stitch weld if required and clean and seal the surface..   Just a thought...   Good luck on the project...

 

Forge on and make beautiful things

Jim

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Hot dip often does funny things (not so funny for you) to decorative work! Mostly because we neglect to take note of the fact that the entire item is going to be dipped into a bath of molten metal(zinc) usually at an angle. Thus heat is transferred to the job at different rates, the bit that goes in first comes out last, tubes get filled and are then drained = longer contact with the zinc , and we mix differing thicknesses  which heat and cool at different rates . Then the heat does a bit of stress relieving too!

 

All of this conspires to 'deform ' your job.

 

On the other hand electro galvanizing leaves acidic salts in tight (but unfilled) joints which later ''bleed'' rusty liquid as they hydrate in a damp environment. 

 

If you were not going to powder coat you could have filled the joint post galvanizing with lead solder but most camelback powder coat ovens are too hot for lead based solder ask your powder coater! Some of the newer powders use relatively low temps. Here people have started dipping metalwork in an acrylic product developed for the automotive industry for corrosion protection.

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