Creating/selling light fittings?

[Greenbeast]

Does anyone have any UK specific advice for making and selling light fittings?

Is this just a legal/liability no-go area or what?

[mick maxen]

Nic,

I looked into this a few years ago and the advice was that all light fittings need to be approved. I think BSI kite mark was mentioned which puts it outside the realms of a one man band like us. Look into this yourself though in case my info is wrong.

 

If its a commission then you could make the fittings and have an electrician wire them up for the customer. That way you are not selling any electrical devices. What the legality of that is though, I have no idea.

 

Mick. 

[basher]

you can look at it two ways.

 either you use kite marked light fittings that are running through your steel frame.....

 or you have to get your particular design kite marked , i looked into it around 10 years ago and it was around £2500 per design from a consultant.

 different height of object = different design.

 or a third way is to get the clients electrician to wire it up, and have that in writing.

[bluecurve]

Greenbeast,

 

I am not fully aware of the regs in the UK, but I do have some familiarity with this area.

 

It varies by state in Australia, but in some places you may be able to sell one off's labelled as "Second Hand Electrical Equipment" provided it has been tested and tagged by an authorised electrical tester (there seems to be an obsession in Australia with putting test tags on everything...). Pricing for this is reasonable if you are talking about a custom piece of artwork that may sell for $200+

 

I know it may not suit you but have you considered looking at this avenue in the UK? Check the legality of this in your jurisdiction!!

 

whatever you do, your light fittings need to be constructed to the applicable lighting and electrical standards in your country for insulation, earth attachments etc etc - this info on which standards apply should be available somewhere from your regulator.

 

cheers,

Tom

[Greenbeast]

Thanks guys.

 

Owen, i figured it would be on the wrong side of expensive to go all official.

 

I will see what the customer has in mind for design and go from there.

[Greenbeast]

 

If its a commission then you could make the fittings and have an electrician wire them up for the customer. That way you are not selling any electrical devices. What the legality of that is though, I have no idea.

 

Mick. 

 

 

 

 or a third way is to get the clients electrician to wire it up, and have that in writing.

 

 

hmm so perhaps i could integrate a bulb holder and a route for cabling and they can handle getting the wiring installed through the device back to the lighting circuit with a sparky.

I guess it would be advisable for them (or me) to find a sparky that would be happy with that beforehand

[DSW]

In some cases it can pay to install a way to pull the wire while building the item. In general construction I typically lay in at least one pulling string if things are complicated as far as bends and such when I assemble the fittings. String probably won't work well with hot metal though. Bailing wire or stranded picture wire would however. Also remember you need to watch sharp edges or burrs inside or they will strip the insulation. Seems the insulation is getting cheaper and cheaper now days and strips or nicks much easier than it used to. Makes it easy to set up the ends, but a pain when you have to pull it around tight bends and so on.

 

I've had to rewire a few lamps and it's usually a hassle if I can't disassemble the fixture if they pulled the wires out in advance and I can't use the old wire to pull my new one. Also because many times the lamp is assembled around the wiring, standard lamp cord will not pull the way it's set up without disassembly. Keep wiring in mind when doing the design.

[Greenbeast]

Keep wiring in mind when doing the design.

 

Oh i very much am!

[John B]

Does anyone have any UK specific advice for making and selling light fittings?

Is this just a legal/liability no-go area or what?

 

If its a one off, then get the client or an electrician to wire up the finished item, then you have no come back should anyone get electrificated.

 

Having produced and sold lighting over a number of years, This was what I based it on, using concealed wiring within the structure.

 

Electric lighting shold conform to relevant UK, European or any other country's regulations where it is to be used.

 

The easiest solution is as already stated get the client to have it wired up on site by a qualified electrician and supply it less wiring and fitting.

 

The purpose of the lighting should also be considered before arriving at a final design.

 

For example wall lights, single, double branched, tiered, suspended, chandeliers, lanterns, table standing, floor standing, type of lamps and holders to be used, fancy or plain, the wattage of the lamps to be used,

 

How will they be joined to the new or existing lighting circuit, If wall mounted, are they to be flush fitting and have wall inserted back boxes, or if  will back mounting boxes be needed?

 

Also consider the electrical safety, stability and security of the item.

 

There are various types of installation,  Earthed (Class 1), Double insulated (Class 2), and low voltage.

 

For metal items Earthed (Class 1) or low voltage are preferred.

 

To conform to CE requirements in the UK, certain specifications must be met, and other conditions advisable.

 

The lampholder must be of an approved design and secure, use a locknut, glue or other approved method

 

The flex, (and it must be flex) has to be protected by a grommet or sleeve where it enters the lampholder mounting 

 

At the base or exit point, the flex must be protected and RESTRAINED to prevent it chafing,

 

There should be provision to turn the light on and off, (may be at the lampholder, in the wiring as a switch, touch or foot control)

 

There should be fitted an appropriate plug with a 3 amp fuse fitted. (unless wall lights)

 

The whole assembly to be correctly wired, I.E. Internal wall lights use 0.5mm square flex minimum, external, floor standing and table lights use 0.75mm square flex minimum, and  all earthed to current regulations.

 

The item should be tested using a CLARE tester

 

The item should carry a CE source identification sticker

 

It should carry an information sticker that the appliance must be earthed, or alternatively it is double insulated Class 2 item

 

It should carry a maximum wattage sticker, but this could also depend on the lampshades being used

 

You must also have documentation regarding designs and specifications for inspection if required.

 

Note the above is a general guide I used based on what was required at the time, I cannot guarantee their accuracy and specifications may change.

 

You will probably have to consider purchasing specific tooling to produce light fittings, taps dies etc

 

If in doubt, as said before, have the wiring done by a qualified electrician, or recommend the client have this done.

 

Hope this helps.

[Greenbeast]

Wow thanks for that John, excellent stuff.

 

Having built my own more modern, led-based luminaires for my own house i would like to go that route here also, it keeps things low voltage and low power and furthers the 'cause' of led lighting.

[John B]

I think current regs state instalation to be carried out and certified by approved practitioner, (not manufacturer.)

 

If you do supply it already wired, it just has to conform to the regs as stated,

[Greenbeast]

ok, at the moment i'm assuming this is going to be wall lights and that i'll be able to use LEDs

 

So that takes care of a few items on your check list, plug/fuse, switch, max wattage labeling, low voltage as opposed to Class 1/2

 

I will see what the customer has to say about it all.