Crazy Ivan Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 I have notices that sometimes after quenching 5160, the blade will sometimes curve out of wack slightly. Is this a problem from possibly uneven heat prior to the quench? The heat looks even and it is not a constant problem but is very annoying when it does happen. The quench i am using is sunflower oil and i am using a 2 burner LP forge. Also, possibly because I am using a coil spring for stock and the steel is trying to return to its original shape? I annealed the steel prior to forging, normalized after, and then the quench and temper. Is there a way to avoid this happening? -Crazy Ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Keyes Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 Uneven thickness can cause problems, but I suspect that you may be moving the piece side to side in the quench. That can cause the blade to move to one side. BTW, there is no point in normalizing before forging, your first heat is going to do that anyway. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy Ivan Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 I am moving it around in the quench. Thats a definite possibility. the thickness is pretty uniform to the eye buy very possible its got slight highs and lows that could be accounting for the bend as well. Thanks for your input! -Crazy Ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Keyes Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 If you are going to move a blade in the quench, up and down only, no side to side movement. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy Ivan Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 Thats the first time I have heard that. Thank you for the advise! -Crazy Ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doc Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 Uneven hammering can cause warping also. Try to forge each side of the blade with as equal a number of hammer blows as possible. When quenching you can limit your movement of the blade to up and down and spine to edge with out the sideways movement. When you do encounter warping it can be straightened after removing the blade from the quench and prying it between slightly opened vice jaws as long as the blade is still 800*F or hotter. Your window for doing this is quite short so work quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homeshow Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 Uneven hammering can cause warping also. Try to forge each side of the blade with as equal a number of hammer blows as possible. Wow I never knew that. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmccustomknives Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 Bevels off center, leaning the blade to one side. As you can see a lot can go wrong. Thin blades are really prone to warpage. The nice thing about 5160 is a quick soft back draw, bring it up to the proper tempering tempurature and you can straiten it (not with a hammer). I'll use my twisting wrench and vice, I'm sure others here have their own methods. Just take your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy Ivan Posted November 22, 2013 Author Share Posted November 22, 2013 Just made another and there was no warping. Geoff was correct in that i was moving the blade in the quench. Also i was counting blows per side and followed Doc's advice. No more trouble now i guess. I appreciate it. -Crazy Ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Keyes Posted November 23, 2013 Share Posted November 23, 2013 Glad to help. g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRobb Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 Great post. Lots of good info. Thanks everyone. And Crazy Ivan, we'd love to see pics of the finished blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy Ivan Posted December 4, 2013 Author Share Posted December 4, 2013 Great post. Lots of good info. Thanks everyone. And Crazy Ivan, we'd love to see pics of the finished blade. I don't have any pictures of the exact one I made during this posting, but i do have pics of a similar one made about 9 months ago. I will try and get it posted on here tomorrow or later tonight. (my girlfriend is the computer wiz, not me so its more about her schedule then mine haha) -Crazy Ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quint Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 Something I do which alot recommend is use apiece of angle iron or similar. Strong enough not to bend at tempering heat. Temper the blade with it attached to the angle iron raised by some pennies or some kind of shim. I use pennies or those new dollars or something. Use one of those little twist clamps. Bend the blade in the opposite direction of the bend, I usually go a little over then when its been at tempering temp (400f or above) I take it out still attached and dunk it in sink full of water. This will help set it. Is only one way of doing it, there are many others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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