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I Forge Iron

New toy! (Band saw)


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Nice score Rich, solid brand. don't sweat it holding at the top, so long as it doesn't just feed on down. You can adjust it at the holdback cylinder, you might have to pull a pin at the pivot point to turn the screw but it's no big thing.

 

The coolant pump isn't an "oil" pump, oil makes a poor flushant as it tends to make the cuttings stick in the kerf so the blade jams and breaks. Most flushants are clean water, water soluble oil, or antifreeze, use Propylene glycol as it's FAR less toxic than Ethylene glycol.

 

What the flush does is lubricates and clears cuttings out of the kerf preventing friction, galling, jamming and with that excess heat and blade wear. Oil isn't used for a couple reasons: #1 it makes the band slip on the wheels by lubing it. #2 it makes cuttings stick to everything but worst, in the kerf where it jams the blade. Of course oil usually has the blade so lubed it can't grip the drive wheel well enough to break the blade but it sounds BAD.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Lenox makes a water-soluable concentrate lubricant/cooler/rust inhibiter that you mix with water 5:1 up to 10:1. IIRC, it is called Band-Ade, and we use it in all the saws in the shop, fixed and portable. The residue rinses off in clean water for welding, easy to mop up if it spills.

 

I am sure that there are similar, competing brands available at industrial supply houses, but not at big box consumer stores.

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If your coolant pump has had it you can always add something like this.

The pump is a cheap aquarium pump inside a 6" diameter length of capped PVC.

 

 post-39957-0-40826700-1380544220_thumb.j

 

Cheap aquarium pumps use a magnetic rotor so you will need to keep the fine swarf out of the coolant tank or it will jam the rotor.

I use a couple of rare earth magnets in the coolant collecting tray to trap the swarf.

Occasionally some swarf will sneak past so I have to remove the pump and clean it out.

 

post-39957-0-56692100-1380544224_thumb.j

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