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Any one have experience working with 3CR12 stainless?
My google foo isn't the greatest, and it's clogged up with land rover frames and extended range tanks.
I'm still looking, but haven't found specks on forgebility. Weld ability, yes but not forgebility.
So fare it looks like a more economical choice than 304, and more risistant than Corten for ground contact, and a better patina.
If some one finds a good speck sheat I'd apretiate it

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Charles, if you find google getting swamped with unrelated links you can filter out the unwanted terms categorically by adding -"land rover" and/or -fuel after your search terms.


so it would look like this, with the [ ]'s indicating the typing box

[3cr12 -"land rover" -fuel]

which will exclude search results that include the phrase "land rover" AND the word "fuel"


you can mix and match stuff like that to refine searches that have been otherwise taken over by something else more popular.


for instance, if you wanted to learn about Cyrus the Great, a king of ancient Persia, but your search of 'Cyrus' is swamped with meaningless drivel about Miley Cyrus, who has come along in the thousands of years since Cyrus the Great, you can search for [cyrus -miley] and exclude anything that mentions her first name.


however when I googled 3cr12 the only results I got were from steel suppliers and a few hits down was the same link that rich provided, so you might want to look into some of your settings as it seems like you are getting less than ideal search returns....

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 Hi Charles,


What do you want to use it for?    


3CR12  is a great product, here in scrap yards it's common as muck, and most of the time you can get it cheaper than mild steel.  This is because it's not easy to cut- all the chrome makes it "hard" so it "eats" cutting disks end does not cut well with an oxy torch. and it "blunts" cutting blades.


Unpolished it "rusts"(goes brown on surface) but polished it acts and looks like 304 yet its "tougher"(as in resistance to wear and tear) 


to cut use plasma/ thin s/s cutting disks   and if you use a punch or guillotine first "grease" with gritless hand cleaner. if you want to drill just use an HSS bit with the gritless hand cleaner as a cutting fluid just like with s/s.



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Hi Charles, if you pickle and pasivate,the battle is mostly won, if you shine it up it'l last better than 304 if you work it cold it needs about 50% more effort than mild steel but will usually last easilly 10x as long.  Painting will  get this stuff to last a "lifetime"  but do'nt believe everything in that SADSA  note "you must use etch primer" otherwise the paint can just be pulled off in sheets(guess how I know) its like you painted glass. when I powdercoat it I always sandblast first(good practice anyhow) I never hesitate to use the stuff. Even thin sheet does not "ding" easilly. and it's great for BBQ's too. 



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