Walnut Square Iron Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 I was looking for ideas on how to mark on 1/4" square mild steel in the areas I want to twist. It will be one piece of rod, bent in the middle to hang on a hook. Essentially a long upside down "u". Where the two legs hang down, I want to put a twist on each leg half way down. I would like the twists to end up across from each other as close to parallel to each other. I am thinking mark the rod with chalk on both legs, leave the "u" open so the legs are apart , heat and twist one leg then the other. My other thought is heat both legs at the same time to have the same area heated and twist one, reheat and do the second leg. Any thoughts as I am still new to this, so I am hoping to get some direction. I can picture it in my head what I want to do, but the best way to get there is not clear. I don't think the 1/4" rod will hold enough heat to do one quick twist on one leg and then the other. The legs hanging down will be only about 3" apart, so I should be able to heat them at the same time. Thanks for any ideas. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 Use scrap pieces and start twisting,,,see how it works and wot you have to actually do...yoi may find that after ten or so they work and look a lot different than when you begin...another way is with a rosebud on an O/A torch,,Clamp the paret you do not want twisted in vise and twist the other part. That small material will lose heat really fast. if done in forge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 That size will twist evenly cold, unless you want a really tight twist, Mark your bar centre, equal space your twist areas from this centre, twist your bar one right hand, one left hand, then apply heat and bend on centre mark, legs and twists should then align. If you are going to heat prior to twisting, mark at each end for the twist with a centrepunch mark (Round or square point, some prefer square as it seems to show clearer) or typing correction fluid if you don't want to mark the bar, chalk/soapstone will not be visible at higher temperatures. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walnut Square Iron Posted September 12, 2013 Author Share Posted September 12, 2013 Use scrap pieces and start twisting,,,see how it works and wot you have to actually do...yoi may find that after ten or so they work and look a lot different than when you begin...another way is with a rosebud on an O/A torch,,Clamp the paret you do not want twisted in vise and twist the other part. That small material will lose heat really fast. if done in forge Good idea. I may heat with a torch in the post vise for the twists and do the rest of the work in the forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walnut Square Iron Posted September 12, 2013 Author Share Posted September 12, 2013 That size will twist evenly cold, unless you want a really tight twist, Mark your bar centre, equal space your twist areas from this centre, twist your bar one right hand, one left hand, then apply heat and bend on centre mark, legs and twists should then align. If you are going to heat prior to twisting, mark at each end for the twist with a centrepunch mark (Round or square point, some prefer square as it seems to show clearer) or typing correction fluid if you don't want to mark the bar, chalk/soapstone will not be visible at higher temperatures. Have fun! I did not even think of the direction of the twists. Towards or away from each other will look great. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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