Rhettbarnhart Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheoRockNazz Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 He better love how many picture you took; you put some time into getting them right. Looks great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhettbarnhart Posted September 11, 2013 Author Share Posted September 11, 2013 Lol theo I took them for ifi too :) and thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhettbarnhart Posted September 15, 2013 Author Share Posted September 15, 2013 Here it is almost ready for heat treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 That shoulder transition (maybe wrong term) from blade to tang looks awful sharp. That is the weakest link in a hidden tang. Sharp corners are the place where cracks begin. Nice looking shape, however. I think a drop point (even as subtle as yours) is my favorite blade shape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmccustomknives Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 That shoulder transition (maybe wrong term) from blade to tang looks awful sharp. That is the weakest link in a hidden tang. Sharp corners are the place where cracks begin. Nice looking shape, however. I think a drop point (even as subtle as yours) is my favorite blade shape It probably wouldn't hurt to take a small round file and radius the tang to ricasso transition just for insurance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhettbarnhart Posted September 16, 2013 Author Share Posted September 16, 2013 Yeah guys I will round out the blade to tang transition before heat treat I don't want a cracked tang....and dodge,drop points are a favorite of mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Yates Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Looking good Rett, I look forward to seeing this finished . Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhettbarnhart Posted September 16, 2013 Author Share Posted September 16, 2013 Me too samcro ;) I ordered the stainless for the guard and now I'm waitin for it to get here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhettbarnhart Posted October 5, 2013 Author Share Posted October 5, 2013 I finally heat treated the blade without it warping too bad.I heat treated it 5 times to finally get it to the point that it wasn't warped.i don't know why it kept warping even after 5(yep FIVE)normalizing cycles??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metal99 Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 Next time try an anneal, then 3 normalizing cycles or you can Risk refining the grain to the point that it won't harden. If it's warping after 3 normalizing cycles something is wrong with the procedure, most likely the temps being too high. The wrong quenchant can also cause warps. Next time try that out and if that doesn't work I'm stumped! Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 One of my biggest problems with blades warping was simply caused by my inexperience as a smith. I can make a long list but I won't. Major culprits for me were....#1 Bevels not forged/ground even on both sides. #2 Blade thickness not even throughout grind. #3 Not getting blade STRAIGHT into the quench with an even heat.....turning 180 degrees to get to quench can cool one side of blade more than another.....causing uneven hardening....Warps. These are a few of the things I strove to correct. I may also recommend not trying all of these things at once as if you have suceess you may not know what the original issue really was. I hope this helps and I'm not coming off like a guru....I most certainly am not. These are some of the things that I've learned from other more experienced smith's here and from other sites. Forge on and you will get to the bottom of it I'm sure. Keep them coming they're looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 I finally heat treated the blade without it warping too bad.I heat treated it 5 times to finally get it to the point that it wasn't warped.i don't know why it kept warping even after 5(yep FIVE)normalizing cycles??? Next time try an anneal, then 3 normalizing cycles or you can Risk refining the grain to the point that it won't harden. If it's warping after 3 normalizing cycles something is wrong with the procedure, most likely the temps being too high. The wrong quenchant can also cause warps. Next time try that out and if that doesn't work I'm stumped! Lol I'm a little confused here. Not used to seeing quenchant used in the normalizing process. Isn't the idea in normalizing to cool the metal slowly? I understand its not the same as annealing but quenching, as I understand it is to cool as quickly as possible. Also, The term "heat treat" raises questions in my mind. I understand that "annealing", "normalizing", "hardening" and "tempering"all fall in the category of "heat treating", however, when I hear the pros speak of heat treating, they are usually referring to the final hardening and tempering. That being said, I would worry about the integrity of the metal that has been reheated to non-magnetic temperatures and quenched or left to air cool or otherwise, that many times. Invoice for 2¢ in the mail ;) Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metal99 Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 I'm a little confused here. Not used to seeing quenchant used in the normalizing process. Isn't the idea in normalizing to cool the metal slowly? I understand its not the same as annealing but quenching, as I understand it is to cool as quickly as possible. Also, The term "heat treat" raises questions in my mind. I understand that "annealing", "normalizing", "hardening" and "tempering"all fall in the category of "heat treating", however, when I hear the pros speak of heat treating, they are usually referring to the final hardening and tempering. That being said, I would worry about the integrity of the metal that has been reheated to non-magnetic temperatures and quenched or left to air cool or otherwise, that many times. Invoice for 2¢ in the mail ;) Scott No, when you normalize you let it cool in still air till a black heat then repeat. It's not usually a good idea to normalize more then 3 times. You can actually make your steel unhardenable by refining the grain to much. What I meant by the wrong quenchant was for the actual hardening process. If you quench a steel like O1 in water.... Warps are sure to happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhettbarnhart Posted October 14, 2013 Author Share Posted October 14, 2013 ok guys I will remember that info,I got the blade hardened with minimum warpage so im happy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metal99 Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 That's all that counts :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homeshow Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 A cold breeze, uneven profiles, swirling your blade in the quench or boat oar pulling it thru the quench are all ways to warp a small thin blade. Now I always quench on a still non windy day and cut thru the oil with the blade. Moving it back and forth in a straight line. This advice was given to me by a FAR better knife maker than I. A bending fork ready to go could help you straighten a small bend if done right away. I sent mine in my anvil, turn on the toaster oven, tell the wife I'm heat treating and close the doors. Again advice from a better bladesmith than I am. I hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhettbarnhart Posted December 4, 2013 Author Share Posted December 4, 2013 Here is the finished knife Comments and critique welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 looks good Rhett, do I see snakewood for the handle ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 Looks good Rhett......Now make another...LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 Really nice work. Shown well in great pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhettbarnhart Posted December 5, 2013 Author Share Posted December 5, 2013 Yeah you do steve, I like the stuff! thanks darren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhettbarnhart Posted December 5, 2013 Author Share Posted December 5, 2013 Thanks rich I need to get some pictures in the daylight but after time change its hard to get home from work before dark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalmangeler Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Great job forging that rifle. :) I did not resist. I think that knife should do just fine on a normal hunt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhettbarnhart Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 That is my prized husqvarna 9000.....I love that gun!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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