Portable Blacksmithing Toolbox

[Trilliumforge]

Hi Folks,

 

I've just finished an article for the OABA newsletter, and wanted to share it here. I posted a partial version of this a little while ago, but here's the final version.

 

About a year ago, we had a demonstrator cancel at the last minute for an OABA meeting, and I was asked to fill in. I had none of my tongs, hammers, punches, or other equipment, and I found it very awkward to use the ones in the shop. There was nothing wrong with the shop or its tools, it just didn't have the kinds of things I was used to. The demonstration was more or less successful, but not quite what I would have liked. After that, I decided to put together a portable set of tools that I could keep in my car for demonstrations. Over the last year, my toolbox has gone through several changes, both in its content and in the ideas behind it. Its still a work in progress, but I thought I'd share where this project come to so far.

 

If I had wanted a set of tools to do one demonstration, I could keep it pretty simple. If I went to a shop that had a forge, and anvil, and some steel, I could do several demonstrations with only a handful of tools. For example, a demo for a bottle opener would require a hammer, a pair of tongs, and a punch/drift. For a pair of tongs, I would need a hammer, a punch, a chisel, a rasp, and a rivet. I think with these sets I could do the specified demo, but if I wanted to work on something else I would need to look for other tools. If I was going to be demonstrating for an afternoon at a public event, I'd like to be able to work on whatever took my fancy. So, what I would like this tool box to be able to do is:

 

· Hold sufficient tools for several and various demos

· Contain most of the tools I might want to work with when borrowing someone else's forge

· Have most of the tools I might need for any surprise projects or repairs whenever I happen to be.

 

However, I have two constraints I want to stick to:

 

· These tools must fit in the tool box I have decided to use for it

· The toolbox must weigh less than 40lbs total.

 

The tool box, on the left, is one I picked up at Iron in the Hat a while back. I could fit a lot more in another toolbox, but this one fits pretty well in my back seat. The weight constraint is a bit arbitrary, but after lugging that thing around when I had it completely crammed, I think that 40lbs is probably as much as I would want. There was also the problem of over crowding the toolbox. I've had times when I just spent too long hunting through a crammed box trying to find the tool I was looking for, and when I was done it was a jigsaw puzzle to put everything back together.

So, with that in mind, I have reworked my tool box to give me the widest range of options while still keeping the weight and the clutter down. This is still a work in progress, but I think I’ve got a pretty good set so far.

 

 

Toolbox Contents

 

1 and 3: V-bit tongs

Two sets of v-bit tongs, useful for round or square stock from 1/4" to 3/4", and not too bad on stock up to an inch, or on a lot of bar stock. I find these to be my favourite style of tongs because of their versatility and stability.

2: Farrier tongs

All around useful tongs, especially for bar stock. I also find them handy to smaller twists and picking up sheet metal pieces.

4: Collapsible Coal rake/poker

I like having a very long coal rake, because I find that when I lean over the forge to pull more coal towards the centre, I tend to light my head on fire. After a few times, you start to think of alternatives. It's also handy for poking the forge or saving yourself from a bit of extra back strain.

5: Slice

Great for most of my forge maintenance. Helps for pulling clinker, raising up the coals, or for digging through to find that one piece that was too short and got lost.

6: Twisting wrench

I made this by welding a piece of scrap onto the end of an adjustable wrench. The two handles make it easier to twist whatever you're working on and keep it straight.

7: Cross Peen Hammer

I use this hammer for pretty much everything. It’s a 2-1/2lbs cross peen hammer with a nice long handle. I’ve changed my hammer for this toolbox several times, and have no problem changing it up when the fancy takes me, but I think I’ll stick with cross peen hammers for this toolbox because of their versatility.

8 - 9: Files and rasp

I find that a heavy farriers rasp, a rough square file, and a rough round file do pretty for most jobs I might do at the forge. I might include a half round file or something thin to get into small places.

10: Golf ball

This is the handle for the files (8-9), and it works very well. I drilled a few holes in it of different sizes, and it fits most file tangs.

11: Small swage block

I have one of the small swage blocks from John Newman, and it works very well, but it would be too much weight for the toolbox as I’ve planned it. I made this small block for minor jobs and for supporting bundle welds.

12: Needle nose pliers

Handy for little tweaks. I might replace these with heavier scrolling pliers.

13: Heavy flat bristle brush

I find these work better and last longer than the softer wire bristle brush. The flat steel bristles are far more aggressive, and remove scale much easier.

14: Drift

This used to be a punch, but these days I find it's better to have my punches and drifts as separate tools. I forged this one out of 4140, and its been working very well for me.

15: Ruler

Useful when trying to measure distances using standard and common divisions of length, such as inches, or perhaps centimetres. Larger units of measurement may require math (not pictured).

16 and 17: Short punches and punch tongs

When I started trying to bring the weight down in the toolbox, I took a look at the number and size of the chisels and punches I had. Most of my chisels and punches were about 6” long, which added a lot of weight to the toolbox. I decided to make a set of short punches, like ones I’ve seen before such as this one http://bit.ly/10oeb1m. I wanted them to be simple and simple to hold, and to not slip or move in the tongs that held them. What I came up with was slightly flattening the side of the punch and putting a round divot in the main body. I then made a pair of tongs just for holding the punches which has an angled jaw for holding the punches, and a wing bolt that I can adjust up and down to sit in the divot to hold the punch in place. The jaws of the tongs are forged from an old crowbar, and the handles are mild steel. I used mild steel for the handles because I wanted to be able to use the back of the handles as a set of fullers for pinching down pieces from the top and bottom simultaneously. I've been really happy with this set of punches so far. These are all made out of 2" of 3/4” 4140, and together weigh less than one of the punches I took out. I feel there will be many more to come.

18: Centre punch

Very handy, especially if I have to drill anything after forging. This is much more convenient as a thin long punch, so I doubt I'll replace it with a shorter one.

19-20: Hot cut chisels

Nice thin hot cut chisels. I have a few short chisels in with the punches, but I wanted to keep two long chisels in the box. The first one is just a flat chisel, and the second one is for slicing a hole through a bar. 

21: Leather glove and Safety goggles (not pictured)

Usually just for my left (non-hammer holding) hand. I don't normally wear gloves, but sometimes its handy. As for the  Safety goggles; Never forge without them

22: Earplugs

For not hearing with.

23: Anvil Devil

I used to have a hot and cold cutting hardie in this box, but they didn’t always work in other people’s anvils. Fred Johnson told me about the Anvil Devil he had picked up at CanIron VIII, and how it worked as both a hot and cold cut, and had held up very well. I picked up one from Canadian Farrier Supply in Orangeville for about $6, and so far its working just great. This is the perfect tool for a portable box, as it took the weight down by three pounds while not losing any functionality.

24: Touch mark

I made a touch mark a while back by simply notching a standard letter punch. Those interested in learning which letter I chose could consult my name for a clue.

25: Chalk

There is usually a busted piece of chalk or two somewhere in the toolbox. Generally handy, and much more reliable than paint markers and silver pencils.

26: Rivets

Various rivets in an unfortunately round container. Looking to do better.

27: Borax

There are some welds that the Iron Mountain isn't great for, especially bundle welds, so I like to keep some ordinary borax around as well. I like old pipe tobacco tins for this, as they're pretty good at keeping moisture out. However, again, it's not the best shape for saving space, so I'm looking for something better.

28: Beeswax

A simple finish for a lot of pieces. I keep it in a ziplock bag just in case it gets too hot in the car.

29: Iron Mountain flux

An anhydrous borax flux with powdered iron for filler. Makes for some pretty easy welds, but if you're not carefully it can also lead to bad habits.

 

Okay, that's it! If you have any suggestions that might help, just drop me a line at [email protected]. If you’d like to take a look at what I’ve put together, just ask next time you see me at an OABA meeting.

 

Sean Stoughton

 

[David Gaddis]

Dang!

 

We have been in the process of the same project too. It seems that your well thought out plan is well deserving of praise. So considered it praised !

 

Now how about posting some pics on the container you use to transport these tools in. We have been discussing the creation of a wooden ship's box or similar.

 

 

Carry on

[Pat Roy]

I have been teaching at a nearby historic farm museum. I started out with a 5 gallon bucket of my own tools but as time wore on and we advanced to different topics and projects more tools were added to the mix and by the end of the 6 week course I was dragging in 3 buckets and an arm load of text books. It's all good though, I'm comfortable with my tools and the farm smithy doesn't have everything we need for the projects we undertake.

[Frosty]

Thank you Sean. It's hard to say how helpful it is to have someone else's travel tool list to consider. I have a bad habit of bringing everything but the kitchen sink and only because THAT'S bolted down. Seriously, the last demo I did it took two of us a good hour to unload the pickup and I don't know how long to get it rearranged back in the shop.

 

I've been drawing up a travel tool chest. As drawn now it's about 36" long x 30" wide and 12" deep. It will have a retractable handle on one end and wheels on the other so I can tilt it and tow it around like modern luggage. When it's time to load it in the pickup, leave the handle out, tip it back against the tail gate and tip and push it in. It'll be divided in two halves the main body 8" deep and the "door/lid" 4" deep. the lid is hinged so it can open out 1/4-1/2-3/4 turn. 1/4 open will probably be the least convenient, at 1/2 open it'll present the racks and shelves to the fullest but might be a little unstable. at 3/4 open the lid will be opened so the racks and hangers are pointed out like they were on the outside of a box or table. In this configuration I'd like to have a sheet of plywood carried on the outside of the lid that'll come free and make a table top. It won't be a work bench I can do heavy work on but it'll be good for keeping tools and parts in plain view and handy.

 

WOW, that's a long winded description but I've been thinking, sketching and drawing on the thing for some time now and the Art On Fire demo really drove home how necessary it is to have a well thought out travel box and if I can make it be a multi tasker all the better.

 

Whatever it turns out to be it'll beat dragging every bucket I have along with.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

[Michael]

I built this "portable" box when I had fewer tools, and quickly outgrew it. About 25" x 20" x 6" deep, with at first a plastic punch roll and then canvas mounted on the lid. It would hold 2 hammers, 3 sets of tongs, a twisting wrench and a bunch of smalls in addition to what fit on the underside of the lid.   It topped out at about 60 or 70 lbs IIRC (must have been more stuff in it)

 

Like I said, the tools outgrew this box pretty fast and I went and built a tool table that's filling up now.

 

I did bring the box to a Hammer In last year and for that limited use it worked great, reining in the tendency to try and bring EVERYTHING.  This year I'll bring along a folding camp stove stand (assuming it can handle the weight-old school steel stand, not Aluminum) to bring the box up to a nice working level, less crouching on the ground looking for tools.

 

 

[Willis]

I'm still at the 5 gal. bucket stage.

[John McPherson]

I just took a class at John C. Campbell, and I wish that I had brought more of my own forge tools, particularly punches & chisels. They have lots of big stuff, but the small stuff must grow legs.....

[Der_Hannes]

Hi Sean!

 

Great you opened this thread.

I've got almost the same problem. 4 Coalforges to run with alot of room in between.

 

You have got a very fine list of items.

 

I try to keep it as simple and lightweight as possible.

This my setup so far:

 

Toolbox is a German mountain Infantry Rucksack. It's pretty tough and takes what comes around.

In the backcase is a newspaper to start fire and prevent tools to ruin my back.

Hammers: 1Kg Hammer, 0,5 Kg Engineerhammer, 1,5Kg smithing hammer made by "Krenzer Werkzeugfabrik"

Left glove, a box of splints, bolts and wedges.

Pelgrom style tongs, hatchet, a Zip-Loc with fire setting.

and some other tools, like hotcut and chisels

 

Soon there will be more tools. Especially one Brazeal styled hardy hot cut and a hammer eye punch... when my skills are so far.

And my carrying system will be changed to a selfmade box with tong as handle.

 

Greetz,

 

Hannes

[Frosty]

You have a well organized kit Hannes.

 

I'm holding myself under tight control, I'm almost helpless when presented with such a wonderful opportunity for jokes. Regardless, I MUST ask how much does a can of the hair dressing cost? You're using the empty tin for holding small things. The name is a HUGELY funny in American English and I'd just LOVE a can in my tool box. I'll be more than happy to pay for a can, postage and a bit more for your trouble.

 

I sincerely LOVE how translations from one language to another sound.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

[Der_Hannes]

Frosty: a bit Off- Topic but....

As i was at the barber shop (for a propper 50's Haircut) and the hairdresser girl asked me if i wanted some cockgrease in my hair i almost soiled myself laughing. i really like the wordplay.

It is not a real translation because it is already english doesn't mean anything in german.

 

As i store most of my smaller tools in tin boxes and i needed new pomade i got two tins.

Plus: leftover pomade prevent bolts from rusting!

 

It's pretty expensive in germany because of shipping and taxes.

It might be cheaper, ordering from their shop:

 

Greetz,

Hannes

[Frosty]

Thanks Hannes, a quick google search and I'm on their site. They have LOTS of products. I may need a larger tool box just for the pomade tins!

 

Frosty the Lucky.

[Trilliumforge]

Thanks for the comments everyone!

 

David: Thanks! I carry it around in a standard metal toolbox, which still has lots of room left in it.

 

I think I'll have to get some cock-grease for it now too...

[PaulKrzysz]

My Dad is taking me to work for the summer and I build this on the job site since all of the tools where already laid out.

 

It is made of a pallet, scrap plywood, and mounding. It is painted also with scrap primer.

 

The only thing what was bought where the screws and the front latch, I only paid a dollar for the latch

 

It measures 18''x16''x11''. It might not be wide enough for bigger tongs but smaller thing should be ok.

 

The bottom compartment will be for tongs and hammers, the top for hardies and files.

 

I will admit is is overbuilt, I would guess is weights around 10Lbs by itself.

 

 

[Harris Snyder]

Holy crap paul thats a pretty serious toolbox. How much does it weigh empty?

[Peter Munz]

Woah,

that is really the finest toolbox I ever have seen.

Peter

[Dodge]

 

I will admit is is overbuilt, I would guess is weights around 10Lbs by itself.

 

 

That is really nice. Weight is something to be considered, however, most traveling smithing tool boxes I have seen, the owner had to move with a dolly or needed help to carry. So, the weight of the box was negligible as the tools by them selves far out weighed the box anyway. By contrast, while I was a production welder, most of us would make simple hand carry boxes from light scrap sheet (usually 11ga) for the few personal tools we needed (Cert stamp, weld gauges, splatter scraper, tape measure, spare welding helmet lenses, etc)  One newby grabbed some 3ga (just under 1/4") by the time he was done it out-weighed his tools. Of course, he took some razzing from us vets, and about a week later I saw the box back in the scrap hopper :lol:

[PaulKrzysz]

That is really nice. Weight is something to be considered, however, most traveling smithing tool boxes I have seen, the owner had to move with a dolly or needed help to carry. So, the weight of the box was negligible as the tools by them selves far out weighed the box anyway. By contrast, while I was a production welder, most of us would make simple hand carry boxes from light scrap sheet (usually 11ga) for the few personal tools we needed (Cert stamp, weld gauges, splatter scraper, tape measure, spare welding helmet lenses, etc)  One newby grabbed some 3ga (just under 1/4") by the time he was done it out-weighed his tools. Of course, he took some razzing from us vets, and about a week later I saw the box back in the scrap hopper :lol:

I felt the exact same way as the young guy after making this box. It probably weighted over 20lb's once finished. I set it out on the curb and decided to make a simple open carpenters tote. It took far less time and weights less as well. 

[Trilliumforge]

Weight was my primary consideration. I actually have it down to 30lbs, without having lost much. I took out some of the rivets, files, and punches, but I added in a tool belt and a rawhide mallet. I'm thinking of replacing the toolbox with some kind of cloth bag, but it's a matter of finding a bag the right size.

[Francis Trez Cole]

this is the wooden tool box I use it is made out of oak that I had left over from an other project  over the last few years I bought some canves bags with leather bottoms and rope handle (rigger bags) they work great as well

[Michael]

Got a chance to demo amongst friends a couple of weekends ago and loaded the portable tool box onto a vintage steel stand for a camp stove or cooler.  Worked great, didn't tip over and the only tools I forgot were a drift and a file.

 

I doubt an aluminum stand would have held up, even if the tool box was only 40 lbs or so.

[cvmikeray]

Seems the world goes around

https://www.google.com/search?q=antique+carpenters+tool+chest&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=EYU7UrWzEMvoiALQ7oHwBQ&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1056&bih=624&dpr=1

These old tool boxes can give us all some good ideas !!!

[divermike]

I started with a little craftsman plastic tool box about 8x18x5. Then went to a full toolbox, and then just kept throwing stuff in the bed of the pickup. When I moved from NY to Michigan, I bought an 6X10 enclosed trailer, it has served well in bringing all my tools across to my new digs, I have installed a fold down cot in it, and plan to outfit it with everything a demo would require, forge, anvil, vise and all hand tools. I also want to put a portable kitchen in it and have some grand tool rack ideas for it. But what with building the new shop, it is a languishing idea for the moment. But when I do get it going, I will post pics, if any of you have a setup like I am talking about, maybe start a thread to show it, if one does not already exist on this labryinth of a site..

[Frank Turley]

After boo coo years of demonstrating, I now do not carry any tools to out-of-state workshops where I fly in. I make a needs and wants list, hoping that the sponsors will get together what I need. If they don't have a specialty tool, we sometimes make it as part of the workshop. I used to carry tools in an aluminum attaché case, something I found at the Goodwill. But the airline scene is bad enough without having to lug my tools. I'm thinking too, that they might lose my tools.

 

For regional and local workshops, I can haul the tools in my car or have the workshop at my forge.

 

Sayings and Cornpone

A new employee was habitually late. Finally, the foreman called him in. "Don't you know what time we go to work here?" he shouted. "No sir," was the reply; "I haven't been able to figure it out yet, because the rest of you are already here."

     "Bits & Pieces" February, 1983

[Der_Hannes]

Servus again!

 

a while after posting my Rucksack-Toolbox i saw this Hilti Toolbox at the flea market.

Made in the 50's for captive bolt-pistol.

 

When i saw it i knew thas this is gonna be my toolbox, but i might have to change the size of my tools to fit in. But it did work. This is my daily setup. Underneath the orange cover is space for magazines or plans and sketches.

 

Chisel and punches

 

Safety department ( goggles, a bag, gloves, not in the picture but also a set of earplugs)

 

Heart of my toolbox ( 1,5Kg hammer, engineers hammer, wirebrushes, cutting and grinding discs, chalk)

 

Tongs ( all cut down to fit inside, quite short sometime but they work fine, also tong clips, rivets, claws, a adjustable Wrench in a extremely good condition by my grandfather,  and a good file)

 

these are following the toolbox, either in my rucksack or in the trunk. ( sledge 3Kgs, hammer eye chisel)

 

and a small 1,25 kg ferriers hammer i did to test hammermaking.

 

that's my current setup if i know i'm going to do different stuff i change the tools.

 

Greetz,

 

Hannes

[GNJC]

It's not a complete tool-set, but John B has a very neat set-up for carrying around punches and specialist tools, I don't have a photo' of it, but if he reads this he may post one. From memory it consists of a large number of pieces of thin walled tube of differing diameter and length, welded together in a useful configuration allowing each tool to be easily identified and picked out - a stout handle for carrying it too. I think he made it for demo's but it is a good idea even just as convenient storage. Yet another item on the long list of things to make...