steamingiron Posted July 8, 2013 Share Posted July 8, 2013 Here's the conceptual designs for this knife im going to be doing. The first picture i drew on my phone when I was imagining it and then the sketch i did. More pictures will be posted as I make progress. Stay tuned ^_^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike-hr Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 The drawings look great! What phone model and what app? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamingiron Posted July 9, 2013 Author Share Posted July 9, 2013 The drawings look great! What phone model and what app? Its an iphone and the app is called SketchBookX, it was free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_ Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 GoodLuckWithTheKnifeSteamingiron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamingiron Posted July 25, 2013 Author Share Posted July 25, 2013 Update: Here's the forged blade, the edges have been trued up on the belt sander Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmccustomknives Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Pretty clean forging. I love the burn in the paper, shows you used it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BCROB Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 ..........looking good so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilt and Hammer Workshop Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 I like where this project is headed. Very much. The ability to accurately transform a concept into a reality is a difficult one to develop. It seems you are having no trouble in that area. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjh66 Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Looking good, Can't wait to see it finished. Just a tip for your drawing. When I print a drawing out that I want to use to compare my work with, I glue it onto a piece of thin sheet metal then cut it out with tinsnips, centre punch any reference lines on it. That way I don't have to worry about it burning or blowing away. Then you can put a hole through it & hang it up to use again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homeshow Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Pjh66 good idea. I'll definetly be doing that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamingiron Posted July 30, 2013 Author Share Posted July 30, 2013 Here it is after quenching, It came out slightly warped. I tryed to correct it during tempering but it didn't straighten completely. Not sure what to do. Should i re-do my all of my heat treating or just leave it. The curve is very subtle. Not quite sure what ill do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robakyo Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 I really like the profile of your blade so far. I am surprised at how thin it is already. It amazes me that it only "slightly" warped. This can easily be fixed according to what I've read on IFI. StormCrow wrote a detailed post on correcting such a warp. I don't recall the post it was contained in, but maybe he will pop in and direct you to the appropriate URL. Using his description of the methods involved, I did succeed in correcting a warped blade. I'll try to explain it as simply as I can remember it. If I flub the details, I apologize in advance. Disclaimer: I am a novice, I do this for fun and the joy of forging. And have no intention of becoming a professional Bladesmith. Take a bar of steel, could be mild steel, sufficiently long enough for you to clamp your blade to. You also need two metal shims between the blade and the bar stock. The curve of the blade should be facing away from the bar stock. Place the shims far enough from the warp so that when you clamp the center of the warp, it will reverse the direction of the warp towards the bar stock. How much to reverse the curve I don't recall. I wouldn't place a shim near the hidden tang(unless that is the location of the warp), but near the ricasso and the other closer to the tip. To me, it was about trial and error. I had to temper it several times until I got it right. Temper the blade as normal. I used my kitchen oven when my wife was away. :lol: Good thing too, because the paint on my HF C-clamp produced some awful fumes. I look forward to seeing your completed knife. How are you going to do the Runic symbols? Etching maybe? Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamingiron Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 I really like the profile of your blade so far. I am surprised at how thin it is already. It amazes me that it only "slightly" warped. This can easily be fixed according to what I've read on IFI. StormCrow wrote a detailed post on correcting such a warp. I don't recall the post it was contained in, but maybe he will pop in and direct you to the appropriate URL. Using his description of the methods involved, I did succeed in correcting a warped blade. I'll try to explain it as simply as I can remember it. If I flub the details, I apologize in advance. Disclaimer: I am a novice, I do this for fun and the joy of forging. And have no intention of becoming a professional Bladesmith. Take a bar of steel, could be mild steel, sufficiently long enough for you to clamp your blade to. You also need two metal shims between the blade and the bar stock. The curve of the blade should be facing away from the bar stock. Place the shims far enough from the warp so that when you clamp the center of the warp, it will reverse the direction of the warp towards the bar stock. How much to reverse the curve I don't recall. I wouldn't place a shim near the hidden tang(unless that is the location of the warp), but near the ricasso and the other closer to the tip. To me, it was about trial and error. I had to temper it several times until I got it right. Temper the blade as normal. I used my kitchen oven when my wife was away. :lol: Good thing too, because the paint on my HF C-clamp produced some awful fumes. I look forward to seeing your completed knife. How are you going to do the Runic symbols? Etching maybe? Robert I did a method similar to that while tempering, but i did not do it correctly and the blade was still slightly warped. I've fixed it now though. Here it is in its current state, getting close to being done. I'm thinking about leaving rest black and only polishing the bevels, what do you think? Or should i just polish the whole blade? Thanks for the feedback and advice. ^_^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robakyo Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 It's looking good. You are staying true to your concept drawing. On the second image of your drawing, you indicated what appears to be a basket weave pattern or something similar, that will be carved into the handle. Is that correct, or am I misinterpreting your sketch? Personally, I like the blackness that results from the quench. I think your knife will look good either way. Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamingiron Posted August 19, 2013 Author Share Posted August 19, 2013 Here is the finished blade, I plan on selling this piece so if anyone is interested please let me know. Constructive criticism is welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Nice knife. When I have a blade bend during HT'ing (only on hardening stage) I normalize and straighten it in a vise, then re-harden. At least that's worked for me, I check for straightness after each step. That even worked on a straight razor I made. I have templates of all the knives I've done and liked on cereal board or cardboard. Then I trace the outline on the anvil using a permanent marker and re-do every 4-6 heats when it comes off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wanderer50 Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 It seems like it would look good with a stain on the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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