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I Forge Iron

Candle soot as a marker


chichi

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The Gunsmith of Williamsburg video shows the smith using the smoke from a candle to coat the barrel .When the barrel is fitted into the stock, the soot marks the high or tight spots that need to be removed for a good fit.

I wanted to try this technique while fitting some parts in a gun on which I am working. I bought a cheap Yankee brand candle and tried to produce the smoke soot. The candle burned clean. I used a low flame from my aceteylene(sp.) torch which was effective. I would prefer the simplicity of a candle.

Anyone know the type of candle or technique to create soot for marking? (I also tried Dycheme layout dye but that did not work as well as the soot from the torch.)

Thanks.

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Did you pass the piece through the candle flame? Modern candles don't smoke like old school tallow candles so you need to interrupt the flame a bit so it can't burn clean. Acetylene works great and is so much faster. However, if you want a more traditional way to soot something, make or buy an oil lamp and pass the piece through that flame, above it may work.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

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what a beautiful idea - it reminds me of the way they used to (maybe still do?) collect soot from the candles used to illuminate mosques, using elaborate air circulating systems to make sure the soot didnt gather on the internal stonework, and collecting the soot in purpose built chambers within the architecture. the soot was used to make a very good quality ink used for calligraphy used on all kinds of documents. soot is very cool - i would suggest as frosty did an old mucky oil lamp or i think it would be worth sourcing some older candles from somewhere (ebay?) i would be interested to know which type of wax means it burns with a blacker soot... such an elegant method of marking spots that need working..

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Here is an alcohol lamp used to afix stone cabochon blanks to dowels for grinding and polishing.  I bet if patio lamp oil were used instead of alcohol soot would result  .  

 

 

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keep thinking about this now - if you dont trim the wick it will burn a bit sootier, so maybe deliberately cut back the wax for a longer wick to start iwth. apparently a draft encourage smoke too, so if you gently blow the flame it might have some effect? 

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There's a serious soot generator if you want serious amounts of soot. A kerosene lamp without a chimney and long wick. One would be enough to soot a table top in a couple minutes.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Many moons ago, I poured new Babbitt for my Little Giant power hammer. I was "mechanically declined" but I had access to a small book, 'Blacksmithing' by Selvidge & Alton. In the chapter on Babbitt pouring, it was suggested to soot the shaft around which the Babbitt was to be poured. This would supposedly provide an oil clearance when later cleaned and all was assembled. I think that it worked, because the hammer is still in use. I used the sooty acetylene flame.

 

Sayings and Cornpone

"Never mind that the mule is blind.

Load the wagon and give me the lines."

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Just a follow up. I tried a small TIKI lamp. It looks like an ink jar with a wick. It cost $3.00 at the garden center.Burned clean. I extended the wick and got a larger clean flame. I think I will make a Betty type lamp and use Kerosene.

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Have you tried Kerosene in your TIKI Lamp ?    If that doesn't work try adding a touch of oil or alternatively try diesel fuel.  Come to think of it you could try adding a bit of oil to the TIKI oil you already have.

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Sooting the shaft before pouring Babbitt is so that the Babbitt won't adhere to the shaft

 

Modern candle wicks are engineered to curl and put the ends out at the air/flame interface and so self trim by burning off.

 

Don't know if you can find candles older than that trick even on e-bay and if you did they would be antiques!

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