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I Forge Iron

Making hot cut hardy tools


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Tool steel for at least the cutting edge. Many/most smiths don't heat treat since they'd pretty much lose most of the hardness from the hot stock being cut.

 

Ideal tool steel is H13 or S7. Junkyard steels that may work include pavement breaker bits, axles, maybe spring steel.

 

If you want to see a traditional approach to mild + steeled cutting edge, TechnicusJoe has a nifty set of three videos on Youtube.

 

Video one is: 

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If you mean that your tools are too small for the new hardy hole, why not make a sleeve for the hole so you can use all of your tools still?

Or if your hardy hole is too small for the for your tools re-size the shanks of your tools & make a sleeve for your old anvil.

Just a thought.

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yea im reading that as if the shanks of your current tools are too loose for your new hardie hole, you can either shim the hole in some manner, or weld a piece of angle iron onto all of your shanks.  save you the headache of having to remake all of them, and then what do you do with the old ones?

 

I actually met a guy that adjusted his hardies just by running some weld bead down the length of the shank to add some thickness without needing to add a second piece of metal, that could work too if you are not gapped enough to warrant adding another piece of iron.

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Tool steel for at least the cutting edge. Many/most smiths don't heat treat since they'd pretty much lose most of the hardness from the hot stock being cut.

 

Ideal tool steel is H13 or S7. Junkyard steels that may work include pavement breaker bits, axles, maybe spring steel.

 

If you want to see a traditional approach to mild + steeled cutting edge, TechnicusJoe has a nifty set of three videos on Youtube.

 

Video one is: 

'>

 

(Note: he does harden his. He does a cold cut test at the end of video 3 that you wouldn't do without hardening.)

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