listingtycoon Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 I know each smith has a preference. I also remember reading in "The Art of Blacksmithing" (Alex W. Bealer) or "The Village Blacksmith" (Aldren A. Watson) that the anvil face should be about the height of the smiths knuckles. Would you agree? Where is the working face or horn of your anvil based on your person? I think there would be a recommended height to be the most proficient at blacksmithing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 This has been discussed before and it comes down to the individual smith and what he works on most often. Knuckle high when standing straight is a good starting point. Level the anvil face both directions N-S and E-W. Put a piece of wood sheeting on the anvil face. Hit it 3-4 times with the hammer. If the crescent is at 12 o'clock the anvil is too low, If at 6 o'clock the anvil is too high, and at 3 or 9 o'clock the hammer is tilted. Adjust the anvil as needed to get a full circle hammer impression. This is a good height for that thickness of wood and metal. For a light work, repetitive production job, sit down and then adjust the anvil to what is comfortable to you. I know a fellow in UK that sat at the anvil, and had the anvil at a slight tilt. He then made the hammer with a slant on the hammer face to match the face of the anvil giving a square on hammer blow. I prefer the face at the break of the wrist or about 3-4 inches higher for up to 1 inch stock. Anything larger the anvil is lowered. When a striker is used, the anvil is lowered to a comfortable height for the striker and the thickness of the stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 It must be comfortable for when you are working. Don't have your back bent over so you can see what you are doing. Gyana, anvils are on the ground. The Blacksmith stands in a hole beside the anvil. There are no stumps. Simple, dig deeper or fill in the hole a little. If you are working on tall things, lower the anvil. If you are working on jewelry, raise the anvil. An anvil base filled with sand makes it real easy to adjust height.(the anvil also doesn't ring). Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 The "traditional" knuckle height I believe was based on doing larger work in professional forges using tooling, strikers, etc. For things like knifemaking I like my anvil about 4" higher so I don't bend my back all day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Greetings List, Start with a stump at knuckle high. Make your stump so that you can add spacers under the anvil. 5/4 works best.. Try each until you reach your comfort level. It's easy for me .. In my big shop I have three anvils at different heights. One small HB at belly button height for small detail work.. The 500 pound Trenton at knuckle height for more serious hammering.. Good luck Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLMartin Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 If you are cutting a wood stump, I would suggest cutting it so the anvil is at the same height as your wrist. Set up the anvil and use it for a week or two. If you find that the anvil is to high it is easy to cut a few inch's off the stump. If you cut the stump short to begin with it is harder to make it taller. Also make sure to use a very heavy stump/stand. You do not want the anvil to tip over in use. Also make sure to fasten the anvil to the stand! Good luck, If you look up anvil stands on this site there is a long list of post of how other people mounted there anvil! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Yates Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 For me and many I am sure it depends on How tall or Short they are, as well if you sit or stand. Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alec.S Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 My anvil is 29" high... Then again... i am only 5'5" ;) ... The rule of thumb I have found best for general hand forging 1" under with hand hammer is the anvil should be no higher than the height at which you can hold a work piece between your legs while retaining the octave of your voice.... (lol) and not low enough that you have to strain to bend down... for striking... for an adult striker around 5'8" to 6'6", it is good to have the anvil at 24" or lower... any higher and you will never get the full potential of a swing! I still stand on a 4" box when I strike on my 24" striking anvil. Me personally, I like striking on an anvil that comes up to my knee caps.... shame that most directors I work with are not supple enough to bend that low!!! :P However, the best advice i can give... Is do what gives the best between, being comfortable and forging as efficiently as possible! Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 If you're using a wood block you can adjust it higher by tacking a piece of plywood to the under side. I just finished a steel frame for my beloved Soderfors and it's damped almost all the brutal ring. Adjusting height up is as easy as adding spacers under the anvil on the Angle iron frame. It's secured to the frame by tong and hammer racks that wedge snugly between the anvil feet and the stand's frame. It's a system I've used for a number of years on my 206lb. Trenton with very satisfactory results. I like my anvil faces about an inch below my wrist but can adjust almost immediately to one several inches +/-. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neg Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 I prefer my anvil to be even with my wrist. Just seems a little more comfortable than my knuckle-high anvil. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshua.M Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 My anvil is 29" high... Then again... i am only 5'5" ;) ... The rule of thumb I have found best for general hand forging 1" under with hand hammer is the anvil should be no higher than the height at which you can hold a work piece between your legs while retaining the octave of your voice.... (lol) and not low enough that you have to strain to bend down... for striking... for an adult striker around 5'8" to 6'6", it is good to have the anvil at 24" or lower... any higher and you will never get the full potential of a swing! I still stand on a 4" box when I strike on my 24" striking anvil. Me personally, I like striking on an anvil that comes up to my knee caps.... shame that most directors I work with are not supple enough to bend that low!!! :P However, the best advice i can give... Is do what gives the best between, being comfortable and forging as efficiently as possible! Alec I guess i'm holding the stock while i'm on my knees for IYS2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshua.M Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 I have multiple anvils at all different heights, from 4" above my knuckles (60 lb post-anvil for small work) to more than 6" below (400 lb Peter Wright for 90% of my work) I am 6'6" but i like my anvil alot lower than normal, and I now have the steel to make a striking anvil that will be mounted around 22" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 On the stump, my anvil's face comes up to somewhere about halfway into the back of my hand, around 36" overall. The old books will talk about coming up to the knuckle, but I like a higher face so there's no chance of my bending over while working. Easier on the back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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