K.C.

Really need a large ANVIL in Fort Worth TX.

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So I have found it to be extremely hard to find an affordable anvil in my area. I watched a 100 pound Swiss anvil go for 560 the other day. Seems way too high and well out of my reach at the moment. I am pretty set up on tools less something to hold the hot metal I wanna work.. Lol. Id like to do some horse trading if anybody is interested. Any help would be great!
Thanks a bunch.

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For over 2000 years an anvil has looked like a large block of metal.  For under 200 years it has looked like a london pattern anvil (the pritchel was added to the design in the 1820's)

 

All the viking pattern welded swords, all of Tijou's ornamental work were done on anvils that didn't look like the london pattern anvil.  If that's what's holding you up you are walking through life surrounded by great anvils with your eye's closed!

 

I had a friend who made a great anvil from a scrounged fork lift tine---total cost was US$25, the tine started out at 180 pounds so not a light anvil!

 

I did a day long early medieval demo last week using a "cube" anvil that was a gift and a T stake anvil that I had built myself---all forged no welding!

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Looking for 150 and up. The bigger the better. Style isn't a big deal but a straight horn will work best. I'm making knives straight razors and spurs. I use a short rail road track milled flat right now. It's not big enuf and no horn.

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Francis Whitaker used an anvil of only 150#, Brian Brazeal uses one that is only 100#, Tsur Sadan uses one that is less than 150# (best as I remember).  JUst because the anvil is BIG doesn't make it any better. A good sturdy base that is mounted to the earth will make a smaller anvil seem much larger.  Good luck on you search

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Have you searched craigslist for Dallas, Houston & Austin using anvil as a keyword?  There are some interesting ones out there that if I was buying I'd be checking out.  Then I also saw at a customer car shop yesterday a sweet 200 lb Soder that I doubt they ever use.  I'm keeping that one in the back of my mind as to how I could talk them out of it.  You never know where one might turn up is my point, talk to everybody!

 

Dan

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Welcome aboard, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in your header it'll save us from havig to ask.

 

Why do you feel you need a horn, I don't know of a blade that'd require one. Japanese bladesmiths use cubes of iron or steel for anvils. I can't think of his name at the moment but there's an American bladesmith who uses a piece of 5" sq. stock on end and he's making superior blades.,

 

How much experience do you have blacksmithing? The only tool that REALLY counts is between the ears, all the rest is made.

 

Luck in your search for the perfect anvil.

 

Frosty the Lucky

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I do a little more than knives and plan to do much more later when I have more time in the trade.. Lol I am new to all of this. I have been aging with metal for about twelve years but never like I am trying to do now. I am in Bedford TX on the edge of Fort Worth. I search Craig's List every day when I can but they seem to be a few hundred dollars higher here than anywhere else. I ask at every garage sale I go to and they direct me to northern tool.. Lol I have had a Taiwan anvil... Don't want another. I found a Fisher Norris an hour from me. It was a hundred pounds but was missing about a 2-1/2X5 inch section on the face. He was asking 4 dollars a pound. I also found a Peter Wright that had been beat on really hard.. It was in very poor condition. 160 pounds at 2.50 a pound. If it were a little cleaner it would have been a great price but it had a HARD life. I know it's a long shot but I was hoping some one on here would have an extra laying around.. Hahaha thanks for all the response! This site is much better than NTBA.

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Hi Frosty,

 

I hadn't used my horn for blade work before, but a re-read on the Hrisoulas' The Complete Bladesmith I tried the following on my last knife instead of doing so much grinding for the bevels.  In the chapter on hammering the bevels he describes how first you curve the blade over the horn inward with the edge down and spine up.  Then when peening & hammering the bevels it straightens the blade.  It worked well enough that I'll do it on the next knife I forge.

 

Other than that for bladesmithing I'd agree.  The more I use my anvil the more I appreciate all the various angles it has, including the horn and heel. 

 

Dan

 

Don't give up on craigslist, keep being vigilant with cash in hand.  When something good shows up it goes fast.  I was fortunate on my anvil, a friend was moving down from Pittsburgh and I had found a good PW along the route he was coming down w/ his truck.  Sometimes things just fall into place.

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Putting a counter curve in the blade is an accepted technique but you don't need a horn to do it. When bending the "hard" way, I use my turning ha mmerand by lifting the tong end of the blank I strike behind the point it's touching the face. Curves easily. Heck, it's an ongoing fight to get my students to hold the work flat on the face, they'd all making upwards curving piece if I didn't.

 

Frosty the Lucky

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I know I don't have to have a horn. I just love the beauty of an anvil and the symphony they create when struck just so. My rail road track works great. I just desire a larger working surface and a hardie hole. Can any body give me a hint on the super thin straight razor? The last one I made from A2 started out at a 1/4 inch thick. I made it into a wedge style and ground off most of the bulk. Turned out nice but I want to hammer one out and have never worked something that thin.

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You can get this guy in Plainview TX for about $200. They can be found at the McDonald Trading Post www.mcdonaldtradingpost.com.

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I don't know if there would be much "wisdom" in buying that anvil for more than $2.00. 

 

door stop. 

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