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I Forge Iron

First try at a bearded axe


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Thanks Larry. I will probably be there, although I have not registered yet. I do not have a power hammer, unfortunately. Although, I do have two people who can occasionally operate a sledge for me. I am near Goshen/Florida NY.

Than you for the compliments everyone.

 

Matt P

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Do it , do it and do it again........You have done that bit so rite..... its the only way.

 If I were to offer a little criticism I would try and blend the weld lines between the steel and axe blade material so there is not a visible line but more of a merging . I would of course do that under a power hammer but If I didn't have one I would use a very slightly rounded hammer to get those edges welded in.......

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks Basher. I did a few more.

Here is one without the flare to the heel and toe. You can still see the weld seam some on the eye.
IMG_7172_zps3da8b3d1.jpg

 

 

And another that I need to slit and weld the bit in still. this one you can not see the seam on. I used a 6lb and a 3lb rounding hammer which seemed to blend it in quite nicely.
IMG_7600_zps69de6d0a.jpg

 

IMG_7602-1_zpsf752bd91.jpg

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Thank you fellas.

Eddie: I do use a roughly 1/4" top fuller that I made from a pick axe to form the eye before it is wrapped. I'll attach some step by step photos.
 

 

These two photos show the stock marked for the inside front portion of the eye, as well as the poll.
IMG_5445copy_zps204d44c7.jpg

IMG_5446copy_zps9a42ccf7.jpg


I used a chain attached to the silencing chain on my anvil, with a weight on one end - to act as a helping hand while I fullered and forged this piece - as I did it by myself. You can see that I fullered about half way into the stock to start off the forging.
IMG_5447copy_zps561aa08e.jpg

IMG_5450copy_zpsc10b0f99.jpg

 

 

Then, using the corners of the anvil face, I forged the fullered area into a taper, or bevel, however you would like to describe it - A gentle transition from the deepest forged spot to the level face of the stock. I'm not a self proclaimed expert, so I may not be "proper" on the lingo.
IMG_5451copy_zpsdb4e08b4.jpg


Then I used a small cross pien that I forged to draw out the ears, while offsetting the stock over the edge of the face - The same positioning used to taper the initial fullers. When forging these with a striker, or helper, I use the same 1/4" top fuller used to make the initial depressions, to draw the ears.
IMG_5452copy_zps3cb9f5c1.jpg


This is what the forging will look like at this point. Poll forged, eye preformed, and ears drawn out.
IMG_5453copy_zps0719e84e.jpg

 

IMG_5454copy_zps835e2965.jpg


Then the forging is wrapped back on to itself leaving about a 1/2 to 3/4" space, which allows me to clean the scale from the forging to insure a quality weld.
IMG_5457copy_zpsec7a9adb.jpg

And that is how I generally form the eye. These photos are from my first attempt at this. I do have photographs from the group of 8-10 that I did, but am waiting to get them back from the photographer/striker/friend.
 

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Thanks for the additional pics. I'll be bookmarking this thread.

 

I'm new here so don't know what it tkaes for a thread to become a BP or sticky etc, but this is worthy IMO.

 

When you get the other pics back - please share. Like maybe the splitting and adding the bit : ) .

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Thank you and you are most welcome. I'll try to get some better pics of splitting and welding the edge if I can.
I did some more work on a couple today.



A shot of them starting out. Just a couple blocks of A36
IMG_7741_zps5b8f59e7.jpg


Starting to fuer and draw them down.
IMG_7745_zps0e99f80b.jpg


IMG_7749_zps26eb37f6.jpg


IMG_7750_zpsec0dacda.jpg


IMG_7752_zps6db7aeaf.jpg

 

 

Stepped down and drawn out.
IMG_7757_zpsa5e5bf25.jpg

 

 

And one of the eyes formed wrapped and welded with the bit forged out some.
IMG_7761_zpsf2a2da5f.jpg

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Keep the pics coming! I find I learn quite a bit from threads like this that are pic heavy, so I really appreciate them. Lots of times I will pick up a new trick with other applications, like your chain hold down. I'm going to give that a try. How much weight do you have on it?

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Thanks. They are just over 1 1/2 #

I did some more work on this one today and got a few photos of splitting and welding the bit.
 




I got the edge split, beveled/tapered, and opened back up.
IMG_7763_zpsf9566bef.jpg


Then I forged the bit (1075 on this one)
IMG_7766_zps268ce208.jpg



I cleaned it up a bit. A bit. Get it.... Never mind...
IMG_7768_zps2a83cf09.jpg



Teeth chiseled into the bit so that it will be held in place until the forge weld is done.
IMG_7771_zps18fc2be1.jpg


IMG_7772_zpsd1a223de.jpg


And all welded up, ready for heat treatment after I flatten it out and true everything up one last time.
IMG_7786copy_zps98f0e30c.jpg



If you have interest int this I'd suggest picking up James Austin's DVD. It's very good and I hear that he is coming out with a second one.

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Nicely done. There was another recent thread with ann axe making video that helped to fill in a lot of the blanks for me and I discovered axe making sections in a couple of the books I already have. I think I'm going to practice on a hawk first, I still need to develope my mojo for forge welding : ) .

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Thanks. Forge welding is an important skill to have no doubt. I still have welds not take from time to time. One out of the 10 or so I had an issue with on the eye weld.



Also, I brought the heads out to my buddy's wood working/carving shop for him to carve and put some handles on the axes. So, I took some photos of that.



IMG_7951copy_zps5208fc7b.jpg


IMG_7936_zps9acef7d3.jpg


IMG_7971_zpsb512cc91.jpg

 


My buddy carving a spoon with one of the axes:
IMG_8012_zps345bdceb.jpg


IMG_8020_zps0a357700.jpg

 

 

IMG_8058_zps67cfade8.jpg

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