Gundog48 Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 I'm making an anvil bridge tool from a piece of 5160 to sit in the hardy. How far should I temper it? Obviously I don't want it to bend with use, but hammering in the middle of the bridge would be likely to cause cracking if it was too hard. Any suggestions? I'd imagine it wants to be a bit softer than an anvil face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doc Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 It's 5160 (automotive spring steel) Temper it like a spring. It should hold up well if it isn't to thin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 I've made mine out of old axles, about 1045, with the forged hardy shank. I let normalize and harden only the face and its edge bends. I tempered to a blue. One edge is sharp as in use for fork tines. The other side has a small radius. If you've ever made branding iron letters and characters, this is one tool you want to have! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric sprado Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Frank: I'm a little confused(not too hard to do) by your description. My saddle is a piece of very thick walled square tubing welded to a pice of 1" stock to fit my hardy hole.. Did you draw out your axel flat and make it rectangular? Sorry for not understanding... Eric Sprado Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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