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I Forge Iron

Making Punches


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So quick question, i have taken a basic blacksmithing class and made a few tools here and there. Being short on funds i have begun making what i need where and when i need it. (or what the rest of the world would call "normal practice") Anyways i can't find much information on the more single purpose punches, like info on making eye punches, ball punches, and those sorts of things. Any links or info the site can provide would be wonderful. 

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For an eye punch I started with a half inch section of drill rod, drilled a shallow 3/16 hole about a 1/4 inch deep in the end after annealling, then filed the outside to an eye shape around the drilled hole. Used the same steel to make a triangular punch to set the eye punch into. Just filed a three corners of the rod.  Harden as appropriate for drill rod (O1?) 

 

I made what I've heard called a "bull punch" a rounded end punch , about 3/8ths  just ground to a sphere on the end, for punching the tooth inside the D that grabs the cap on bottle openers. Ground to a smooth ball and hardened again.

 

Tire iron steel made a nice square punch, but I find I don't use a square punch all that much.  Old sharpening steels from the flea market make great smaller round punches.

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I just finished a few punches AKA (schneckers)  for one of my studios..  My sugestion if you are on a  limited budget is to start with good tool steel round bars the are not that costly..  and a flap disc grinder with 60 to 120 grit ; forge to the basic shape and grind away..   Enclosed are some made with H13 for hot work and 4140 for cold treadle hammer work...   For eye punches , forge the bar to a taper with the tapered end with a small droop over of material...  Take a 6 in flat bar stock heat to forging temp and sink a old small ball bearing in it.. ( aprox 1/2 way)    After cooling set the plate on your anvil with the bearing in the hole than heat your punch end and drive it into the bearing..  It will form a nice eye punch.. File and grind to taste... 

 Take your time and your punches will last a very long  time.. Next read up on heat treat , draw tempering  ect... 

 

I hope this helps..    Jimpost-30666-0-87868000-1361149821_thumb.p

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For critter eye punches I decide how many times i will use it and select the steel. If it is a one time deal I use mile or wot ever is around at the time. If is a punch I see will be used fot a long time I use hot work punch steel, My preference is S7. I taper the pece soe got not to finish size.Then I dimple tje end a llittle bit with a center punch to locate center. I make a positive punch the size and shape of the eyeball I want. from mild. steel, I heat the dimpled punch and sexure in vise. and drive the positive punch in, With it mild I can cool in water if i need to drive in a little more. When the made punch is cool I grind the outside around the rounded hole I have made, to even up the rim and make the punch I want. Tis takes more time to type than make,

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start out with the size you feel comfortable making. as time goes by you will need to make punches of all sizes from a 1/4" -1" eye punch and so on. I my self use spring steel easy to get and makes a good punch. one quick way to make an eye punch id place a rivet in your vice with the head flush with the jaws. heat up your rod and drive it onto the rivet. then let cool grind the outside to the shape you want round or oval. At some blacksmith supply stores they sell punches made from S-7. when you are starting off it is better to get the practice of making the punch rather than the quality of the steel. once you have learned to make them and you are good at it then invest in the good steel. That punch you make from a piece of spring will last for years. 

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I agree with all said above with one difference. When I make an eye punch for say a horse eye on flat par I forge a taper that is diamond shaped or you can do a square and file it to the diamond shape I then use a center punch for the ball of the eye. When you drive it in it won't go deep enough to take the conical shape unless you do it repeatedly. When you drive it in the steel bulges up into the center munch mark but maintains a domed top until you drive it in several times. It is always better to do a munch mark like an eye punch in one hit if you can to keep from having double marks if you know what I mean.

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While it is true that mild steel will hold up for single use punches, it is good practice to forge all of your punches out of some form of carbon steel. Spring stock works well, and you will find it lasts much longer. It can then be sold or given away or kept for an odd job years down the road.

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