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Steve Sells

Knife Making Log Class 110: shapes and material sourcing

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Rich Hale
Tonight is a rather trivia night to bring us up to speed on some things that we thought folks wouild kinda know about,  a refresing step back is in order. That said lets look at shapes  post-2529-0-92468800-1359668008_thumb.jp This is a drop point hunter, cannot see it but it has a slotted guard soldered in place,  And a tapered tang. I covered tapereing tangs in an early session post-2529-0-77648000-1359668039_thumb.jpThis blade shape is called a trailing Point  The first one dipped down at the top this sweeps up post-2529-0-48328900-1359668018_thumb.jp If youilook at the spine of this blade it does not bend down like the drop point,,it has a straight line to the tip. it is called a clip point We shold talk abouit bowie style blades also here. This shape can be called a bowie style. post-2529-0-64432000-1359668023_thumb.jp This shape can be called blurred, But also could be called a bowie
 
The real thing to remember is that no one knows wot the real bowie looked like, There is some thoughts that the spine was straight all the way to the tip Hoowever if you Look atg places that seel bowies, they most likely will have a deviance from that straight line. ieth upp, down with a swoop in it or something.   There is not ahards rule on wot you call a knfe An of them. However if you use common shape names most folks will know what youi are thinking. post-2529-0-33714800-1359668003_thumb.jp Call this a dagger and it is a common language   post-2529-0-08757600-1359668031_thumb.gi  This may not be a lot different than a drop point but is is called a spear point Not alot different than a drop point..but the top line drops down to abouit the middle of the blade at the tip.
post-2529-0-15143700-1359668191_thumb.jp Clip point with tapered tang slotted guard and pins in the scales. Guard is soldered Now back to this one... Had tapered tang and the metal on the sides are bolsters. they have four pins through each side blade and other side and hammered down like flush rivets when ground down the pins do not show.  In another class I will hav epics of doing a slotted guard and bolstersw, I have already covered a slip on, soldered guard on a hiddin tang knfe.

steve sells
ok We have seen many people asking about places to get steel. I wont bother in this chat but I will include a file of URLS of steel suppliers that carry knife grade steels, its not a short list,  but its also not at your local walmart, PLeas add  urls you use, wehen it gets posted.  in addition to steel there are other items we like to have like wood, bone, antler, gems and other metals for bolesters, and even meteorite

Rich Hale
I use stainless and pure nickle for guards and bolster , butt caps

 

steve sells
also scraps of damascus make lovely additions or wrought iron

Rich Hale
I get these from one of several knfe making suppliers. For the ss parts I use 416

 

steve sells
also find them locally antler Drops will start appearing now its FREE

 

Rich Hale
Form either K and G, Pops knife supply, Sheridan knife supply, Jantz or Texas knfemakers supply
 

steve sells
the blade I made for Rthibeau was a bolster of antler carved to look like Ivory,  Smaller sections of damascus scrap can be used for pins, one of my clients makes long bows, after curing his woods some are warped too bad or have cracks, so I get those woods from him cheap, since he can not use them for a long bow no cost to me!
 

Rich Hale
i have listed all the belts I use in bp 0235, I get trizac and blaze belts from tru girt in CAl. The rough grit belts I used in thqt bp I have now changed to blaze by Norton.  I get pins made of 416 or Purenickel for the same places I listed above

 

steve sells
look at some gems.  I used jasper and agote for inlays in handles and inserts for cross guards. Tourquois is popular also, and they do not need to be large stones, chips can be mounted same as the old viking swords did for the hilts

Rich Hale
I get packets of wet or dry sandpaper from Hog abrasives in Cal.

 

steve sells
I get the 3000 grit wet dry from auto zone they have 1000 and up for body finishing
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 Rich Hale
I use epoxy from K and G, it is there own two part brand,,holds forever it seems and you wash up with water,

 

steve sells
remember to not get the quick set epoxy's they tend to fail at about 5 years aftrer we use it.


Rich Hale
I use a flat grinder wnat use a spry glue thtg I get from NAPA auto parts stores. It is used by body shops to stick paper to orandom orbit sander,  I spray glue on back of paper and on sanding disc,,,when I am ready for finer grit the paper peels off and I can reuse it.   You can also you 3M 77 spray adhesive for this  However if it gets cool at all it will not peel off,  you will have to scrape it off,  Works fine if shop is over 100f

steve sells
Has anyone tried using stone or shell or gems ?

garey
abalone shell. it is brittle. needs to be inlayed flush and supported good

steve sells
can it be flatten like antler our must we look for flat pieces to start ??

garey
look for flat pieces.  dont breatyh the dusty from grinding it. is bad for lungs.

Rich Hale
Woods and horn, antlers etc ,,most of the knfe sujpply house have on line catalogs with pics of samples   I get mother of pearl from Culpepper back east somewhere, I see them at shows, Almost all of these places are on line and also advertise in knfe magazines like Knives illustrated and Blade.

steve sells
Anyone dry cure their own fresh woods for handles willing to tell us how you are doing it?  success and failures? ok if not I will, I wax the ends to slow down the drying this prevents some cracking, also place in my basement celler that is 30% humidty max, and averages 60 F year round.  My basement being cool and not really arid is a very slow (about 2 years) dry cycle and I get very little cracking this way  

garey
i have some Osage Orange in the loft of the shop from east Texas. ends are painted also. been up there for 12 years. I cut some up to use as needed.

steve sells
OK running out of time, I repeast I will include urls and phone number for suppliers, PLEASE add to the list, and as I see additions I will add them to the main list. and later after time has passed I will compile them into a post in the knife Reference section by recourse topic so people can look there for the list rather than look through a thread full of other text

Kearnach
Is stabilized wood worth the extra cash in terms of durability and longevity?

 

garey
i think so.

steve sells
YES i stabilize most of mine rich buy his that way


Rich Hale
Thank you ,,try not to make this a Rich knfe show,,however I will not infringe on anyone elses copywrite this way

BigCotton89
I've heard that some people will dry their fresh wood by putting it in an oven on roughly 150 for 6-8 hours and that gets it below 7% moisture

 

steve sells
it can but losing much wood from cracking also is a but possability

Rich Hale
Now to tell the tale of sorrow,   Todoay I spent afternoonn in shop doing a pice for tonight,,,a drop point huter with ivery scales and bolsters I fitted the 415 bolsters and showed how to hold and drill for pins and how to prep pins.....the front of the bolsters and the flat sides of the blade h ave to be finished polied before attaching  At last buff on blade I found some smill imperfections. I reground to 200 and back through finer to buff,,,same thing Set it aside,,next day or so will do again,,if not right will use a chop saw... Will do that lesson next week with or without this blade

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