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I Forge Iron

hammer for the jury

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Dave, methinks you should just send me that hammer for proper training and start over to incorporate all the suggestions previously given.  What are you using to punch the eye??  With a flypress I take that many heats.```` -_-

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I'm using an 80 pound air hammer, single hit method. It's hard to line up and move around, which is most of what slows it down. But it is just down-right big stock for the hammer too.


I took out the oak handle today and did a wavy-grain walnut handle with two crossed white oak wedges. I'm staining it now and will post pics when done.


I also polished the face with 220, 340, 400, and then scotch bright. It's mirror finished now. 



Brent Bailey's work is quite nice. I got to see a lot of his stuff out at ABANA and I've used one of his sledges at Brian Brazeal's place.

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Make a jig that fits over the power hammer bottom die to hold the hammer blank in place, then it will be easier to get the punch set right....or you could make a jig the holds the blank and the punch in line together


I would like an upper H13 die that is the punch. Bolt it on! The bottom would need some form of alignment tooling as well as stops to keep the billet from sticking in the punch. The problem with the alignment tooling and the stop, is the expansion caused by punching the eye. You have to be able to get the billet in and out, easily, to conserve time and heat. You would also need the alignment die to be adjustable in all directions and on all sides to allow for different sized billets. 


Sounds like a job for some heavy all-thread.

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Hi Dave,

When you get your top tool punch done, if you attach a stripper plate to the bottom tool, you should be able to get your punch out OK


Maybe you may have to consider slightly altering your production process if you wish to accommodate locations.

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Stripper plate? Please define! I'm not familiar with that.


I've got the new handle finished and the faces polished up. Thanks for bringing up these suggestions....it's really improved the hammer. Black walnut handle with white oak wedges!















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Thanks for the explanation. I was beginning to think I had missed something...


And that's for power tools right?



Yes, they're used on presses, can be man powered like a flypress. I guess it would work on an air hammer if you can generate enough up force to raise the ram and extract the punch.

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A stripper plate holds the punched object and strips it from the punch as the punch goes up.


Not necessarily hold it, but should be clear of the blank being punched, basically just to stop the workpiece lifting with the punch.


This may or may not work depending on your powerhammer.


For production work producing hammers, drop stamps are the way to go.

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Yeah I'm not sure if my hammer could withdraw the punch. I wonder how you would tell without making all of the tooling and then blam, FAIL!


I do want to sell my air hammer and build a new air hammer that's larger.....maybe 100-150 pounds. (Depending on what my compressor could run.) But that's another topic for another time.


I don't see a punch press anywhere in my future budget. I suppose I could build a hydraulic press, but they are a bit slow. It'd take a honking press to punch 2-inch + material as well.


One of these days I think it'd be awesome to get two GOOD strikers and two GOOD directors together and forge a couple 12-pound sledge hammers in the Brian Brazeal hand-hammer style.


Metals calculator says a 3-inch solid 4140 billet 6.375-inches long would do the trick. I figure it would take one person holding the billet, one holding the tools, and two striking. Plus an entire spectrum of customized tools. It would be AWESOME though!

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