kernaleugene Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 I think this is the right spot for this Anywho, I've been working on creating the Hylian shield from Legend of Zelda The main plate and outer crest is 16 gauge, plasma cut and cold formed to the curve the wood is 1x8 red oak, which i used a spoke shave on to help make them fit Cresting on the front is brass, copper, and repoussed steel, brazed on through holes drilled in the back. all taped off and painted, working on the sides now Thought, tips or advice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 If you had pegged and glued the 3 wooden backing planks into one unit before laying in place you would have had more strength, and the out of place seams in your photo would have been gone. I cant tell from these pics if you rolled the edges of the plating or not, but its looking good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tantofolder Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 It's hard to tell from the photos( the ones with the overlay),but did you planish the hammer marks out after dishing? Interesting project!! Thanks for the photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kernaleugene Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 I didn't roll the edges of the plating, as this was my first attempt at this sort of thing and didnt know what I was doing. I'm now in the process of welding and filing metal onto the sides to roll onto the back for the rivets. Also wish I had of though of pegging the boards together! I planished out what I could, then filed the marks off from the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Looking good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsmith Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 For a first run at such a project it looks great, I wouldnt worry about strength unless your going to take it into battle with live steel. I did a "prop" Capatain America shield for a costume a while back, .050 Alluminum with no backing (didnt have any vibranium/adimantium alloy), domed it on the english wheel and rolled the edge, paint scheem and leather handholds etc, it has stood up to much foam sword combat and even being walked on with the only damge being to the paint. More important in this use is that it is light enough to easily carry. Keep up the good work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Welcome aboard, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in your header we wont have to keep asking. Pretty cool project. I can't say for sure but I THINK rivets on armor and shields weren't round headed towards the attacker. the smoother armour is the less likely a weapon will cut. The issue I see with the unpegged boards is wear and blisters on your arm. It's not real armour so strength is a little less an issue. Well done. Frosty the Lucky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Itzdomhere Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 It looks awesome.... Maybe you should do the sword as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobtheSmith Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Which sword? there are several that link has had over the years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adambieber Posted September 27, 2013 Share Posted September 27, 2013 Oh I miss my Zelda days.. Looks good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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