Bronze - working with

[Roastbeef]

Hi Guys, I really fancy getting hold of some bronze to work with. I like to make belt buckles, candle holders etc etc, so I guess I am looking for some 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch bar.

I am in France so I think most of you won't be able to help with recommending suppliers, but my questions are:

What type of bronze should I be asking for ? 

Do you work it cold or from the forge ?

Is it expensive?

What type of rods do you use for welding it ?

 

Thanks in advance for your replies :)

 

Phil

[John B]

Hi Phil, for what you are doing brass or copper will work, Naval bronze is better, and copper better than brass, brass is better cast.

 

Yes it can be expensive, depends on what your recoup is likely to be

 

You can forge/work it cold or hot, but anneal it first and often if done cold.

 

To anneal heat to red and quench in clean water, or let cool naturally.

 

Welding, usually silver solder for joins, or what I tend to do is to use cut off pieces from the stock as a filler metal and borax made into a paste with saliva or water as a flux.

 

Silicon Bronze rods are availavble and usually gas welding or tig methods are used. Personally I have never used stick welding for brass or copper  except for bronze welding wearing surfaces on other metals in heavy duty applications.

 

You can get proprietory fluxes for bronze welding but they are mainly borax and a lot more expensive than borax.

 

have fun

[Dillon Sculpture]

E.A. Chase buckles are amazing, David Brown is not to shabby either. Silicon bronze

[John B]

Some pics here of belt buckles, These were competition pieces at this years Edenbridge and Oxted Show

 

This copper one is interesting because you can change the repoussee centre panel motif

 

 

The others are forged steel

 

 

Apologies for not knowing the makers names

[Bentiron1946]

Silicone bronze is what you want. There is a member here in Ireland that does a lot of silicone bronze forging, I sure hope he chimes in. When I was doing a lot of casting there was a wire that was available that was just one number off from the one I was using for casting so it feed out real nice in the MIG machine and we had some rod too for bigger holes in the casting. There are lots of different types for different atmospheres, marine, to urbane and all have there own problems when it comes to patina. I love bronze!!

[Judson Yaggy]

I agree with Bentiron, silicon bronze is a joy to forge.  Work it at a dull red, no hotter.  It moves very easily under the hammer.  Don't get it hotter than a low red temp or it will crumble like old cheese.  When it gets up towards orange or low yellow chances are you will only pull half of your bar from the fire.  High heat conductivity so use tongs even on longer pieces.  If you want to modern weld it the best luck I've had matching color and patina is with tig welding using the exact same alloy as filler rod. 

[Wroughton]

Silicon bronze runs about $12 to $15 per lb. depending on what stock you buy, and in what quantity. Atlas metals for good help and service or Alaskan if you prefer crappy and unhelpful service. 

 

Seems like a big investment but it's a long way from silver. Not something  you want to make a $45 trinket out of. 

[macbruce]

I agree with Bentiron, silicon bronze is a joy to forge.  Work it at a dull red, no hotter.  It moves very easily under the hammer.  Don't get it hotter than a low red temp or it will crumble like old cheese.  When it gets up towards orange or low yellow chances are you will only pull half of your bar from the fire.  High heat conductivity so use tongs even on longer pieces.

You are right on all points.......But if I even 'think' it's too hot to handle I turn the gas forge OFF until it cools to a safe level and don't move it at all until it does. This has saved me many a time. A water siphon spray (I can't find my thread called ""COOL IT'' which shows one) can really be useful to keep the heat creep in check on the handling end.