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I Forge Iron


Sam Salvati

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Here is some pictures of two knives, on in progress, th eother just needing a handle wrap, and a sword VERY much in progress. Big knife is 5160, little one is 1075, and the sword is 1075. All the curve in the little one is form forming the bevel, the spine was dead straight before I hammered in the bevel. I like the natural curve it gave. The first picture is uf the knife before the little recurve tip broke off(was stabbing through ice layer on top of powdery snow, then went through too much and hit a rock), but then the rest of the pictures are of after I reground the tip, then tempered a bit more. I LOVE how this knife feels in my hand, it is one of my best works so far personally, it has a tough edge geometry, diamond cross section all forged in with false back edge, and pretty good heat treat, plus 5160 is tougher than nails. The little curved one, DESPITE my better judgement will get a steel guard and antler(>:P) handle.








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AM , youse tis always postin' pix's of some form of blade , got any with some form of decent handle on em ? (& i don't mean those cord wrapped 1 youse does either M O O N spells YUCK )
Poundin' em outs fine , finished is better
Dale Russell

Yeah, like Julian sort of said, I am not really setup to do pinned slabs and bolsters and all thet just yet, but am working on it. IN fact today I figured out a way I could pull of some slab handles pretty well(look for some pictures soon). Plus, right now I am just digging doing some really nice quality heat treated, well performing blades, I have not really gotten too much of the finishing bug just yet, partly due to lack of proper equipment. Plus there is the KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) philosophy, with nothing too complicated, that is less that could fail.
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Hey Ap Man I like your blades. A way of putting a handle on that Ive done before- weld a peice of threaded bar to the blade. Choose your wood or whatevers handy, drill hole to fit on threaded bar. Cut to length, make oval or any other shape plate for the back, weld nut on to fit threaded bar. Make small instep in wood to allow nut, screw on back bit and tighten. Voila- knive handle done. Its nice cause if its done right there are no visible rivets or anything. Ive used copper for the back- just braze a nut on. Hope you find this helpfull!

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Yeah I have seen that done with great success, but i could not justify to myself(with my crappy welder) trying that just yet, though I am getting the hang of forge welding now, so it might be more plausible. I favor the peened butt cap/pommel method, IMHO it is the strongest.

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