Alec.S Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Brian's flue is actually just cammed in with the roof, it can easily be slid up and down by just un- cam-ing it from the roof. You can also have 1/4 inch hooks suspended from the roof supporting the bottom of the flue pipe. alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borntoolate Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 My problem is the that roof is not very high but it is sort of connected/associated with the shop building and it's roof that I think I am going to need to extend the chimney above the actual shop roof. Thus it will extend a good 15' above the roof at the forge. So it is not hanging from above but being held from below with a good 15' above the roof, at the forge. I also would like to keep the rain out of the smithy both at the roof and at the top opening. So just canting it in a hole doesn't work for me. Rain in Louisiana is often Torrential! I guess some sort of chain and hinged cover would work for that top opening. I don't want rain pouring down into the forge. I can make all the hardware I just don't have a good idea how to mount all this or even how to get 200 pounds of 20' long stuff into the hole. I am pretty sure I can figure out the getting it up there part. BUt the mounting of it is pretty sketchy in my mind so far. Pictures of peoples own mounting or sketches would be fabulous! Maybe a pre-mounted bracket at the right height on the flue. Once inserted into a hole in the roof it stops and sets the flue in place. Maybe set this bracket at the angle of my roof. Then brackets and guy wires in 3 directions to keet it from tipping? Seal up the opening and done! NO MORE SMOKE!??? In the above pic you can see the overall shop partially with the lean too roof where the forge is. THe shop roof line and smithy area roof line are being pointed to by Brians head. Yes, I am shamelessley sticking a Brian pic in here. And no I am not saying that he has a pointy head. Brian of course is the one with the plaid shirt! <_< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gaddis Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 Looking at your pictures show the possible need for external supports. Consider two 4x6 treated posts being well supported by depth, concrete, and possible guy wires. Have chimney running between the two 4x6's with hangar straps. Those things wrap aroung the chimney with a squeezing action and have arms that reach out sideways to make the support connection. They should be available at a REAL air / heat supply house that handles sheet products. In the SOUTH where hurricanes and rain are more often occured this supported chimney may be your best solution. just run a side draft like those Hofi pictures and you should be set. Carry on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo) Posted September 6, 2012 Author Share Posted September 6, 2012 Hi guys, after so many fellow blacksmiths kindly answered my thread (http://www.iforgeiro...ke-hood-needed/), I decided to give it a try and ordered me a flue. I found that the installation Brial Brazeal uses and that was suggested to me by Alec will be the cheapest and easiest to realize for me. So I ordered a spiral pipe with a diameter of 315mm (12,4 inches) and a length of 3m (~10ft) on eBay and the thing just arrived yesterday: I will post any news about the development of my project in this thread for those who plan to built the same kind of construction. - Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alec.S Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 Fantastic! My one i ordered is arriving any day now too! alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo) Posted September 6, 2012 Author Share Posted September 6, 2012 Fantastic! My one i ordered is arriving any day now too! alecDoes yours have the same dimention? And what did you pay? I paid 67€ for the flue and 41€ for shipping... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry H Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 I haven't seen Brian's flue, however, I think you need a heat shield where the flue goes through the roof line to prevent heat transfer to the surrounding wood structure.....wouldn't you say ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 I got mine from a place that recycles building supplies, Habitat for Humanity Re-Store, and paid US$4; I also found a couple of short sections made from Stainless steel there to use near the hot zone of my forge. They were US$10. Shipping was zero as I picked them up when I had to make a trip into town anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alec.S Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 I bought mine for £40 with free shipping... 'galvanized spiral ducting" :) so thats like 55-60 euros or something :) alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ten Hammers Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 Two options. Both work well. Both are for the trailer shop. Both keep (most) of the smoke off me and BOTH conserve fuel in good winds. Both have sliding back doors for long stock and both were built by me in the shop at home. Both have 6" (removable) stovepipe out the top. Your purchase of pipe can easily be used in ANY similar hood enclosure ( setting ON the forge or having legs to the floor or whatever). Your pipe purchase appears to be long enough to go through the roof (which is fine). There will be drawbacks with an enclosed hood but all in all, it works for me. The home shop hood draws straight up as well ( using 12" auger pipe through the roof). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Being exposed to open winds will effect even the most effective drawing chimney/hood/etc. However it's no trick to make a simple wind break that fits on the forge table and shields the fire and base of the chimney from the wind. I have the same kind of wind break to shield my burner intakes from the wind. All this is is a piece of sheet metal wide enough to cover the distance between the forge table and the bottom of the chimney/hood, etc. And wide enough to bend lengthwise at a 90* angle so it'll stand on it's own. You simply stand it on the forge table upwind of the fire and it diverts the wind around. That's it, nothing tricky, sneaky or rocket scientish to it. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo) Posted September 14, 2012 Author Share Posted September 14, 2012 Being exposed to open winds will effect even the most effective drawing chimney/hood/etc. However it's no trick to make a simple wind break that fits on the forge table and shields the fire and base of the chimney from the wind. I have the same kind of wind break to shield my burner intakes from the wind. All this is is a piece of sheet metal wide enough to cover the distance between the forge table and the bottom of the chimney/hood, etc. And wide enough to bend lengthwise at a 90* angle so it'll stand on it's own. You simply stand it on the forge table upwind of the fire and it diverts the wind around. That's it, nothing tricky, sneaky or rocket scientish to it. Frosty The Lucky.In the case my setup is still effected by wind I will come up with something similar to your description. The problem is that my fire pot is at the very side of the table so I only have ~5cm for something to be placed. Thanks for your reply! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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