Elemental Metal Creations Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 I have started cold working with copper and brass the last couple of weeks because it has been to hot to light the forge (105-115 every day for about 3 weeks). I made one copper rose and soldered the petals to the stem with what solder and old flux that I had on hand, It worked ok but I was not really pleased. I would also like to solder some bases to some copper and brass bowls that I have made. What would be the best/proper solder and flux to use for this? Also any info on the best methods for doing this would be helpful. I already have a commission for a copper rose that I have to have done by Mon.the 17. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 I've always used the old acid fluxes used for plumbing repair instead of the rosin core fluxes used for electronics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Agree on the acid core, Also I gas weld bronze rod for copper fusion, think of poor mans TIG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tzonoqua Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 I don't know of the "best/proper" solder and flux, but what I have always used for soldering copper is hard silver solder and borax as flux, from a cone as per what jewellers use, with a butane torch. I'm not sure how this would work for you. Could you rivet it together and avoid the soldering if you're not happy with the results? think of poor mans TIG hehe, too funny Steve!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elemental Metal Creations Posted July 11, 2012 Author Share Posted July 11, 2012 Thanks for the replies, the main reason that I was not happy with the results was that I used some old flux that I found that was white in color, kind of looked like old motor oil that had water in it. It left a white film on some of the petals. It is not that noticeable but I did. I need to get some new flux so I thought that I would see what people recommended first. Steve, I know what you mean, right now I can't aven afford a torch that will burn MAPP gas so I am stuck with a plumbers propane torch. Maybe I will make enough this weekend at a festival to gat a better torch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 Are yoiu sure the white film is not left from the acid in the flux?, In any case youi need to clean the soldered area after soldering with acid core...Windex works well for that.along with and old tooth brush and a clear water rinse....An lpg plumbers torch should work fine. and if is one of the small hand held ones that uses throw away bottles, Mapp bottles are a direct replacement. i doubt you wouild need the heat mapp produces for wot youi are doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pulsepushthepopulace Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 SIlicone bronze/ silibraze... They use it for body work on cars... MIG or TIG... TIG especially for finite detail... You can lay some pretty welds with it, check it out in google images... Just a suggestion... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 I use plumbers flux... The cheap stuff. I use Tin or Silver solder depending on the strength required. I clean the area to be soldered and place little "chips" of Solder near the areas I want the solder to flow. Then I gently heat, start with the larger mass and the solder will just disappear into the joint. The little chips make for some clean joints. As opposed to feeding the filler rod into the joint like welding. Definitely clean after soldering. wipe with damp towel while still hot. Tooth brush is great idea, add tooth paste and it will polish as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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