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I have been following this thread off and on so this might have been answered if I missed it. However the last time I checked the Magtech 15KW machine was $2950 set up and ready to run as a forge. That was a year ago or more so they might have gone up since. In a previous post you said you are shooting for around $2000 which would be a kit that the user has to put together. To me $950 does not seem like a lot extra for something that has been tested and is know to work well, is ready to do work out of the box, and has a warrantee. What is the benefit to buying your unit? Will it consist of better components or have more bells and whistles? I applaud your efforts to build an induction heater however I don’t really see the benefit in buying it over the Magtech, please enlighten me.

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Hi, John DeArmond here. Chief Engineer of Fluxeon. I agree with your advice that the Roy is not a suitable forging heater for anything but the smallest items. While it will "hold up", it simply wo

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kubiack, on 24 Jun 2014 - 2:35 PM, said:

I have been following this thread off and on so this might have been answered if I missed it. However the last time I checked the Magtech 15KW machine was $2950 set up and ready to run as a forge. That was a year ago or more so they might have gone up since. In a previous post you said you are shooting for around $2000 which would be a kit that the user has to put together. To me $950 does not seem like a lot extra for something that has been tested and is know to work well, is ready to do work out of the box, and has a warrantee. What is the benefit to buying your unit? Will it consist of better components or have more bells and whistles? I applaud your efforts to build an induction heater however I don’t really see the benefit in buying it over the Magtech, please enlighten me.

 

 

I'm trying respect the rules here and not to cross the line of promoting a product so there is a lot I'm not going into here, just answering questions. But yes we are shooting for well under $2K for a raw kit and a bit more for an ARU kit (almost ready to use). Basically an hour of your time, and a screw driver or allen wrench then your ready to go, no soldering or any complex assembly. All individual components and modules for the ARU kit are being QA certified in a working test bed. We are also exploring a kit assembly option and will be offering multiple warrantee levels. This machine is over build, where as most overseas 15-25KW units are built with the minimum capacity parts and operate at or very near their maxim range of operation, thus the 80% duty cycle on most. That being said the Magtech's are great machines, but I very much believe I can top it in price, performance, whistles and service. :D

 

 

 

dimenickel, on 24 Jun 2014 - 1:37 PM, said:

A.) i use the 3 coil for heating larger stock and move it back n forth ...   and i find if the coil size is closer to the work piece, it'll work faster

1.) make the foot switch on the floor a tough metal one... otherwise it may get stomped

 

2.) are you using big relays ?  and are they in an easily replaceable area ?

 

3.) i mentioned it before ... that its a good idea to be able to easily remove the cover ...so you can blow out the grinding metal dust .... unless its totally sealed, which would be epic awesome !!

 

4.) i'm really digging the idea of thermocouple control...   both salt pot... and for accurate heating of work edges to be normalized and hardened ... that is an option that would appeal to many !

 

A.) Using a coil with the fewest turns and minimum diameter will alway be the fastest way to heat. Of course that's not what I was going for in that video. Eventually I'm looking at doing an application request video each week for an induction heating application with the highest votes.

 

1.) Looking at heavy duty die cast aluminum most likely. And possibly a couple options as not everyone will need an industrial strength version.

 

2.) Yes, I'm using one massive 2 pole 240v contactor to interrupt mains voltage to the high power section when it's not in use. It's in an easy to replace area and can be done with just a screw driver. Replacements for that contactor should be in the $10-20 range. On a similar note since it seams like you have experience with this, the contactor is never switched under load, so unless the coil fails it should never need replacing. 

 

3.) The case design we are implementing does provide easy access to all sides, however, the unit is 100% sealed now. Internal ambient temperature stays within a degree or two of the cooling water temperature (even in a 90% shop running at full capacity). I couldn't not do this after seeing the results of shop use on one of the prototypes Daniel was using.

 

4.) I'm making progress on the optical pyrometer theory and model and will be working on a prototype soon (the forge needs to come first obviously). There are some very low cost sensors that I believe will make this project doable. I would love to be able to offer a decently accurate pyrometer for around $50-100, and as it stands that is plausible.

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Hi

I've been following this thread with interest for a while now and am very keen to obtain a kit. Do you know how much it will weigh and what is the likely shipping cost to the UK for an ARU kit? When you say the the ARU kit will be slightly over $2000, how much?

Thanks in advance
Edward

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What is the position re CE certification? I tried to buy an induction forge from Grant just before he passed away but he wouldn't ship them to the UK. He said they weren't CE certified and there was a very real risk they would be impounded at customs. From what I know it is VERY expensive to have them certified over here. I assume there is some equivalent of CE certification over in the USA that you will have done and this will "translate" as valid over here. A bit like recognising other countries driving licences????

I do hope so because these kits look really well thought out and useful and I was gutted not to get one of Grants ... lightening wont strike twice will it :)

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dont know, I suspect it would more likely cause a problem if you were importing them to sell and as the distributor you would then be responsible, same as items with a CE mark that are not certificated like the power hammer we used to have that no DC braking, single circuit E stop that was difficult to get to and guards with gaps of 225mm rather than the 6mm max and no interlocks to make sure they were closed.

it was imported into the UK and sold to us by the distributor maybe 7 years ago, hammer has gone now.

if there was an accident any inquiry could have found the mark to be fake.

I dont know if importing one for your own use would be a problem, dont think it would

also I think it being a kit may help

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Hi Dwarf :)

Yeah, importing a kit, maybe, maybe?

Do power hammers need a DC brake? I thought it was for high speed saws? Do lathes, mills, drills , cold saws et etc need brakes? I hope not .... could get expensive.

What is the 6mm gap you talk about with a power hammer? How on earth do you guard an air
hammer with a 6mm gap? Unless your work is only sheet? Was your hammer an Anyang or Sahinler?

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If the induction heater was imported and it didn't have a powersupply ...  it would be an incomplete machine ...    then you could say your importing induction heat Parts ....    in a separate order, have the powersupply sent ...   click them together and your good to go

 

just like ordering a belt grinder with no motor ..

 

well, i suppose big Gov't probably has a way of catchin that ...  they've got their mits in everything

 

 

if it were me...i'd find a way of sneekin one in the country...  they are wonderful machines

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from what I have read these kits use an ATX psu for the electronics, it would be pointless to send that as they are available everywhere, it would help to cut weight, import duty and vat at this end as well.

I do not know how the fact it is components / modules for a kit would affect the rate of duty rather than a complete machine but it should make it lower, even if the percentages are the same the ( however small ) reduction in value would help.

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What a long wait this has been. I hope we are in the home stretch. The one I bought from Grant is starting to act up. I bought a huge cooler for it (25 gallon dynaflux) hoping it would be happy, but maybe not. I definitely am looking forward to Daniel and Josh amazing machine!

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I'm selling both the 15KW single phase and 25kW three phase in the UK. PM me for details.

 

I've been using a 25kW for over 4 years and it did between 80-90% of my heating but I've gone real big and also got myself a 40KW BEAST. It's an absolute joy having two different sized coils on the go with loads and loads of electromagnetic Uummphh. I don't use the coal forge anymore .... getting rid of it to make space for a 75kg  Anyang powerhammer. I occasionally use the gas forges but try not to because the induction heaters are SO much cheaper to run and the working conditions so much more pleasant.

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Thanks guys! I guess the virtual world lost a lot of it's attractions when the late GREAT and never to be forgotten Grant Sarver passed away. It was his posts which drew me in here. 

 

I've attached a picture of my induction set up. Long coil on the 40KW to heat up bar stock in seconds and flat wide coil on the 25KW to reheat after its be forged into flat or wiggly things. Since I'm selling them and get them at cost I'm toying with idea of putting another 25KW on that tower of power. Probably won't swap coils over that often with three on the go!!!!

 

post-11205-0-37639400-1413981346_thumb.j

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