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Home build induction heater


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Took a couple quick vids tonight at my brothers. The new setup is going really well running on 220v single phase, runs smooth at full power without any of the components of the forge heating up much so it can run all day now, you'll see the small cooling setup in the video. It can draw up to about 65 amps, if we had more power available it could be made to draw more, its usually kept at 25-40 amps for now though for testing and stuff.

 

Heating about a 7inch section of a .5inch round bar

http://youtu.be/ysPMw20m1UY

 

Heating a 3inch square block, I will upload a better video of this later too, he had already heated it once before I got there but I need to make some tongs to be able to move it once its hot haha.. and something better for it to sit on.

http://youtu.be/G32XxLzMMh0

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Guys I hate to report that the companies I bought induction heater antifreeze have gone out of Biz.

Straight technical grade ethylene Gylcol can be had from a number of venders but can be pricey to ship as it has a flash point of 118F making it a "Flammable"

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If Daniel can provide some parameters like operatirng temps of the coolant, materials in the components etc, an old friend in the chemical biz has offered to formulate antifreeze coolant for these home sized induction heaters and offer in 5 gallon pails.

Daniel C the best way to get this going if interested is to message me.

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Im on it, I'll message you later with it all.

I stick my hand in the water bucket on the one in my shop sometimes, I dont think its ever gotten above room temperature. I guess I'll need to get the temp of the fluid just as it exits the coil to know what it actually gets up to.

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Yeah output at the coil. In your system any other water cooled components? I am used to big heaters that usually have water cooled Cap's and transformers. as well as water cooled power leads to the coils.

If the copper coil with say brass fittings, the pump and the hosing are all that is wetted by the coolant then those are the materials I need.

 

I think a Poly Gylcol is what will probably be reccomended.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

You guy really genius.

I have to admire your DIY technology.Your DIY induction heating machine looks beautiful and Amazing. 

Induction heating machine not only forging, hardening, Welding, and Melting if you can crucible with Coil winding, It Great applications.
 

Brother, you really great !

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Guys I hate to report that the companies I bought induction heater antifreeze have gone out of Biz.

Straight technical grade ethylene Gylcol can be had from a number of venders but can be pricey to ship as it has a flash point of 118F making it a "Flammable"

Try Michelle at Ajax/Tocco

Michelle R. Pankuch,

Ajax Tocco Magnethermic Corporation

1745 Overland Avenue NE

Warren, OH  44483

Phone:  330 372 8637

e-mail:  mpankuch@ajaxtocco.com

 

I recently got a quote on this for the units I am getting up and running:

 

PI24870

Magnecool Antifreeze Solution 30/70 Mix (55 Gallon Drum)

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Thanks for the tip.

 

Sorry I have not updated this in a while. I am moving on the 24th and building a new(and bigger!) shop and my brother has been busier than normal with his other job. Hopefully this summer we will get a few units up and running with the new design. The original forge is still running strong in my shop now.

 

I will post as soon as anything new comes up.

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  • 2 weeks later...

This is really intriguing. I have seen the induction stoves on TV and such, so this works similar to that. So when the machine runs, and no metal is in it, they are cool to the touch?

 

I live in a 4-Plex without a patio or anything, but I do have a garage for storage. I am not even allowed to store a BBQ in the garage (Propane tanks are a no-no apparently), so I can't really have a coal forge, because it would take forever for the heat to come down.

 

This might be the answer to my problems!

 

I am going to have to watch and wait like the others I guess :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yes the machine stays quite cool, most of the cooling is needed to protect the copper coil from the metal you are heating, the coil itself stays cool to the touch otherwise.

My shop is all packed up in the garage of my new house :( Stakes In the ground for the new shop foundation to be poured very soon. Found a nazel 2b that might be headed into that new shop as well!

This is really intriguing. I have seen the induction stoves on TV and such, so this works similar to that. So when the machine runs, and no metal is in it, they are cool to the touch?
 
I live in a 4-Plex without a patio or anything, but I do have a garage for storage. I am not even allowed to store a BBQ in the garage (Propane tanks are a no-no apparently), so I can't really have a coal forge, because it would take forever for the heat to come down.
 
This might be the answer to my problems!
 
I am going to have to watch and wait like the others I guess :D

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Hoping Daniel and his brother are not swamped the whole summer... Really sounds like an excellent design, and I am looking forward to at least more info. if not parts and plans, or finished machines soon ;-) count me in too.

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I would be very interested in one of these, I do make coke forges and sometimes use them, most things I make are the same 2 items out of 12mm round and square ( 1/2" to you americans ) and need only to heat the end 75mm ( 3" ), it would save a lot of time lighting up the forge if I suddenly need to make a couple.

here in the UK we have 240v 50Hz mains power and I also have 3 phase 415v

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Very interesting topic!! Was wondering, could a large unit be used to temper an anvil?

 

Larry

 

Yes, there are foundries that use induction systems to melt very large amounts of steel. Tempering(or melting) an anvil(or car!) would possible with the right machine and enough power. None of ours are that large though.

 

Quick Google search shows this companies capabilities. Two 4.5-ton per hour coreless induction furnaces. http://www.atlasfdry.com/equipment.htm#melting

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