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new to this & need advise - which anvil to keep?


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BS0HS.jpgHRXz7.jpgHi IFI - I'm no smith, but would like to learn soon. This is my 1st post. A buddy & I have found a guy local that teaches blacksmithing & plan on taking a class or more. Given that, I've been looking for anvils & other tools at estate sales & auctions. About 4 years ago, I got a 150 lb anvil at an antique auction from England. Not may people @ the auction that night so there was only one other guy bidding on the anvil. I got it for $120. The base of the anvil looks a bit crude & the only mark is "MADEnENGLAND". This one is complete & the top surface is in better shape.

The other anvil is a Peter Wright that I got at an E-sale a couple of weeks ago for $125. The heel is broken off at the back edge of the hardi (sp?) & someone welded plate steel across the gap to enclose the hardi. The surface on the PW has been abused more than the other. The edges are more rounded & battered, there is a dish in the main area, the horn has a dished warn area as well (farrier?). The PW weighs approx. 163 lbs broken so it must have been 175 - 180 lb?

I was told the most important thing is the rebound & to drop a ball bearing from 10" and should get 80 - 90% rebound for a good anvil. I got over 9" for both & appear to have equal rebound.
If it wasn't my best friend, I'd have 2 anvils (for now), but he is & I'm going to pass the other one to him for what I paid. The PW has a VERY high pitch ring that would get very old after a while & the ring sounds a bit odd (??? but I really don't know??) towards the end of the horn around the wear area? I understand a ring is good, but then you have to muffle it?

If it were you, which would you keep? In a way, I'd love to keep the PW, but wish it was not broken and repaired. Not sure if the repaired hardi will work? I'm leaning towards the "MADEnENGLAND" because it's complete, does not have the high pitch ring + I've had it for a few years & I'm attached to it.

I do have some pic's of both, but I'm WAY behind the tech curve. Is there anyone I could E-mail the pic's to that would be willing to post for me?

Thanks A Bunch for the help!
David
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So you are asking whether you should keep a complete anvil in good condition, or one that is broken, had repairs and has a dish and rounded edges? I would choose the one in better condition seeing as there's not much of a weight difference.

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Welcome aboard David, glad to have you. He must be a darned good friend if you're considering letting him have the anvil in better condition. I've done similar, friends are good to have. <grin>

Yeah, I'd keep the better one and invite my buddy over any time. The odd sound to the PW might be the piece of steel welded over the hardy hole isn't as solid as it should be. Even a little unfused metal can buzz if in contact. Listening for a flat sound or buzz is a common test to detect a delaminated face plate.

In either case good work can be done on them but keeping your eyes open for a nicer one is sort of a blacksmith tradition.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Thanks a bunch for the advise everyone - I appreciate it. & thanks for the welcome Frosty!

I was leaning towards the complete, non-damaged one & this will comfirm it.

I know my buddy will love either one.

& I will keep my eyes open for the next great deal...

I'll be back asking questions as I try & learn this craft.

Thanks Again!
David

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By all means come back and ask away! Just post pics, we LOVE pics. Both of you looking for more tools will speed it up a lot and before long you'll have loaners for all the new friends you'll start teaching. Nothing shortens your learning curve like teaching someone else, nothing.

Frosty The Lucky.

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They *both* are good starter anvils and I might have gone with the left one if it's price had a heavy cut to it due to condition. (bought one with no heel for $40 once that is still used in the shop for beginners and heavy sledging as they would have to work a lot harder to damage it!)

With the choice of either for a good shop anvil the one of the right is one you can take to Demo's and be proud of...

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& that is what I'm going to do. My buddy is excited about his as well. We both can't wait to get started & I can tell this craft will occupy lots of my time in the future. My wife & I hope to retire in about 8-10 years and move to our property in CO. I'm in the process of converting our barn into my woodworking shop, but now I MUST have a blacksmith area. Move over jointer... : )

BTW - is there a general rule for the height of your anvil? I currently have mine on a stump that puts it about 38" high (forearm is about level when the hammer hits the anvil).

Thanks A Bunch! for the welcome & all the advise
David

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My rule is that you can use it all day without your back hurting from bending over it. So the knife forging anvil is higher than the heavy stock forging anvil!

Having your most used hammer hit *flat* naturally and not be canted up or down is another way to look at it.

Actual height is pretty meaningless as what's perfect for someone 6'10" may be WAY to high for some one 5'2".

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Another rule of thumb that's a good departure point is to mount the face so your wrist is even with it when standing comfortably next to it in your work shoes. Another is to mount it at knuckle height but those were the days of strikers so it's a little low for single hand hammering. Those work as departure points but the most important thing to remember is to put it at YOUR comfort level and it's hard to beat Thomas' advice.

Frosty The Lucky.

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