pijamak Posted July 31, 2013 Posted July 31, 2013 I'm very happy with the small forge I've put together, and I'd like to share it with you guys :D I've made my forge out of this old BBQ : '> I made some holes and put a pipe trough : '> Then I drilled the pipe and put a layer of kaowool paper on the walls of the BBQ and around the end of the pipe : '> I put a second layer of kaowool to use as a "mold of sorts" : '> Then I poured some castable refractory cement (dukast 3000) : '> I'm using a bathroom exhaust fan as a blower : '> After that I got some firebricks which I carved to fit the sides of the BBQ, I put a layer of the castable refractory to protect them on the face inside the forge (they are very soft, and I'd destroy it over time with the poker) here is the forge with the firebrick already in place: '> Same thing from below, so we can see the fan : '> Here's how it's looking inside : %20%C2%A0(you%20can%20see%20the%20dimmer%20I%20installed%20here,%20it%20controls%20the%20speed%20of%20the%20fan)'> (you can see the dimmer I installed here, it controls the speed of the fan) I left the middle brick in the back movable: %20%C2%A0,in%20case%20I%20need%20to%20heat%20a%20middle%20portion%20of%20a%20long%20stock%20(it%20was%20very%20useful%20when%20I%20made%20my%20hold%20down%20so%20far)'> ,in case I need to heat a middle portion of a long stock (it was very useful when I made my hold down so far) here is it on work : '> It's small, it got a tad too narrow (I should've taken 1/2~3/4 inch of each brick on the sides), adn I'm still getting the hang of it (I burn metal all the time), but it seems it will do for a beginner :) Quote
ThorsHammer82 Posted July 31, 2013 Posted July 31, 2013 how much heat do you get at the Black PVC fitting? I know all the metal work on my forge gets pretty hot even that far from the fire pot, but then again, I don't have it clayed. Quote
pijamak Posted July 31, 2013 Posted July 31, 2013 it gets a bit hot, but not enough to melt it, it stays steadily in place (longest I worked was 5 hours straight, so I think it won't get hotter than that). when I want to do a "heavy cleaning" on the forge, I remove the PVC and take the pipe out (it's moveable since I protected the refractory to contact the tube with the kaowool... I acually move it a little bit some times to change the "hot spot" of the forge), there are holes under it and a tray. so I just throw the ash down the holes and to the tray and put the tube back ( I do that every 3~4 uses) Quote
Davidrw70 Posted August 5, 2013 Posted August 5, 2013 Well here is the first couple stages of my brake drum forge........ I have a brake drum from a 12,000 # axle of a trailer. I used some hi temp mortar to make the fire pot a little smaller and angled. SO far I am only about $80 into it for the mortar and a few parts that I needed. The rest I had on hand...... I am slowly going to be setting up my forge in Arkansas over the next year while I still work in Texas. Quote
Chestnut Forge Posted September 7, 2013 Posted September 7, 2013 Here is mine. I have the original blower also. Quote
J. McKraut Posted September 14, 2013 Posted September 14, 2013 I have been working on this forge for a while and have finally finished it. Except for the blower and the dimmer switch, it is entirely made from scrap from my work. I only have $33 and a lot of lunch breaks into making it. I used 8" S.S. hose tube, 2 S.S. dome lids, half an oil filter crusher stand, a big rig break drum, 2 S.S. half fenders from a big rig truck, scrap angle iron, a 3" S.S. pipe with camlock ends and a high beam floor switch. Painted in 2000 degree matte black. Quote
VaughnT Posted September 14, 2013 Posted September 14, 2013 J, that's one stout forge! Great way to reuse materials and come up with something that's unique. Quote
mooseman645 Posted September 16, 2013 Posted September 16, 2013 Made from a pipe end cap, a bathroom exhaust fan, and several other odds and ends Quote
J. McKraut Posted September 16, 2013 Posted September 16, 2013 Thanks Vaughn! This site has been a huge help for me. I had read through nearly every post about solid fuel forges. I read about what people have done, what they like, what they don't. I combined that with my own likings to know what all I wanted. I agreed with those who said they like having a table as part of it. Also about having a switch to turn the blower off when not using it. Stuff like that. Quote
Perry Thomasson Posted September 19, 2013 Posted September 19, 2013 Here is a link to my forge. It has a Roger Lorance firepot. Link removed by request Quote
ThorsHammer82 Posted September 19, 2013 Posted September 19, 2013 Holy XXXX! someone uses Google+? Quote
VaughnT Posted September 20, 2013 Posted September 20, 2013 Very nice forge, Perry. Professionally done, and a gorgeous shop, too! Quote
Charles R. Stevens Posted September 20, 2013 Posted September 20, 2013 Remember this is a "G" rated forum. Quote
Perry Thomasson Posted September 20, 2013 Posted September 20, 2013 Thanks Vaughn T. I based it off Brian Brazeal's forge. I had a three day class and was able to get the dimensions and photos to build it myself. Quote
ThorsHammer82 Posted September 20, 2013 Posted September 20, 2013 (edited) Remember this is a "G" rated forum. was my word choice to colorful or are you refering the the forge porn? Edit: Not sure who edited your post for language above (#364), but Charles is probably referring to both. Terms of use link is posted are the bottom of every page Edited September 30, 2013 by Moderator54 Clarification Quote
PaulKrzysz Posted September 20, 2013 Posted September 20, 2013 Here is My forge. The top measures 27'' x 18'' because it is made of 9'' x 4.5'' firebricks. The Firepot is 9''x9''. Powered by a 12'' 'Candian Forge and Blower' Blower I included one pick before I filled the table in with bricks If I where to do it again I would add at least one more row of brick across the width, probably two, and one more row for the length, bringing it to 36'' x 27''. I would also definitely add a rotating clinker breaker next time as well. The air for the forge came out of a 2'' iron pipe cap, the cap had 3 slits cut into it for air, you can see one small one and a larger one. The larger one is there because the material in between two of them was taken out at a high heat by me trying to remove the clinker. Quote
GaryGencarelle Posted September 30, 2013 Posted September 30, 2013 Shop made firepot, tuyere and table, pipe legs, dayton blower. Total cost in materials was 100 dollars. fire pot is 3/8 thick, hearth is 3/4 thick. The only problem was at first firing the grade 3 bolts holding the hearth to the tuyere seared off from the expansion and were replaced with grade 8. Quote
BobL Posted October 2, 2013 Posted October 2, 2013 My 18 year old nephew came over with a plough disc yesterday after noon and I helped him make this basic forge from some bits and pieces I had laying around my shop. Nephew cut, filed and drilled and I welded and turned out the air outlet recesses. I let nephew have input into the design which is why it is so high, I'm hoping he can learn from this experience After taking it home in the late afternoon he went out and bought some charcoal and after dinner fired it up and made some metal hot. The blower is one I made for my gas forge but I probably will stick with my Vacuum cleaner so nephew can use it till he finds something suitable. Quote
NickAus Posted October 3, 2013 Posted October 3, 2013 My 18 year old nephew I'm almost 20 Bob. I let nephew have input into the design which is why it is so high, I'm hoping he can learn from this experience Yeah maybe if your a dwarf, the hight is good, the only real problem with it is the heat spot isn't very large and in an awkward spot because it's sunk . Over all i think is good forge though. Thanks for your help. Quote
Nick Posted October 3, 2013 Posted October 3, 2013 Here's my main forge, right after I built it and a more recent shot. The pan was made from the bottom of a big iron box I had. Angle-iron legs and flat stock straps welded to the bottom of the pan. Centaur firepot and a Cannedy-Otto blower on an adjustable-height stand. You can see I cut a lower pass-through in the sides. It's also a little higher now, it sank into the dirt floor of the shop, it's supported on small cinderblocks now. Quote
BobL Posted October 4, 2013 Posted October 4, 2013 I'm almost 20 Bob. Sorry. Look at the lowered pass thru on the forge in the next (Nicks) post - you should do something like that on yours. Quote
Dayne Posted October 9, 2013 Posted October 9, 2013 This still needs a pan around the drum but it didn't cost me much other than the blower. Quote
shralp Posted October 9, 2013 Posted October 9, 2013 Here's my ugly but serviceable forge. I finally found a use for that nasty Virginia clay, because the good Lord knows it's no much for crops. I had most of the wood lying around the shed and only had to purchase the 2x10s for the frame. Based on an old army manual I made the tuyere out of a black iron pipe that goes straight through the bottom of the bed (end cap on one side for a scoop-out and the other open for the blower) with a tee joint in the middle to allow a 1" hole. Old shower drain for a grate above it. I've only used it with charcoal made in my fire pit, and you'll note that in a couple of the pictures I have to hold my blower (an old shop vac) a couple of feet back to get the proper flow, but it gets the job done. (If the job doesn't include forge welding.) Welcome any feedback. Quote
Dave Parker Posted October 9, 2013 Posted October 9, 2013 Here is my large portable forge. It was a craigslist purchase so I do not know the history but except for needing to replace the wheels it is in great shape. Quote
VaughnT Posted October 10, 2013 Posted October 10, 2013 Dave, except for the steer tires, that thing's looking mighty fine! I like the overall design and it certainly looks serviceable. Quote
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