TomN Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 My blower is 220 - 250V and 450W. I've got the dimmer switch below, which is 400W. I'm guessing I really need to get a dimmer switch rated to 1000W for it to work? Any advice would be appreciated! What would also be appreciated is how I am to wire it into the blower, so that I can gain full control over it. At the moment it blows on an all or nothing basis and due to that it produces a very harsh fire! Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 You need one for an induction motor or things you might not like can happen. How about just putting a gate on the inlet? So long as the motor is NOT cooled by the blower itself all restricting the flow will do is reduce the work the motor does. They're a lot easier to use and control than a dimmer switch. Frosty the Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 my 2 cents I would build a slide damper rather than a dimmer. better to keep the motor running full out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomN Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 Here is an image of the details, on the top of my blower. Should be all the electrical info on there! The reason I want a dimmer, is the slide which I already have on my blower doesn't work too well. Especially when it comes to lighting the forge. The blower is just too powerful. Another reason is that the blower itself is incredibly noisey and gets on my nerves a bit. I'd rather just have the fire 'ticking over' most of the time. So 400W max rating on this is too low for my 450W blower? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Hi Tom, If you connect that up it will destroy the switch, Take it back unused and upgrade to the 750 or 1000watt version. Check you motor has brushes before connecting the "dimmer switch", if it does not, then a switch of this type will not control it. Does not the slide valve give you some degree of control ? It worked ok when it was in use before, If it is getting too much air through, the slide plate could be replaced using a smaller opening to let the air through, currently it is about 50mm diameter, that could be reduced down to a slot or some other configuration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan P. Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 I would strongly second the idea of focusing on the slide if you want to regulate air flow into your fire. For any other reason I cannot comment, but a dimmer does not work fast enough to give you the control you need. If your blower makes an annoying noise, get a new one. They are cheap(ish) for being such an important piece of kit. Extractor fans, Clarke, Axminster, etc. will do fine. Bouncy castle blowers can be found cheap second hand (ebay). If you can make it up to north Gloucestershire I have a bouncy castle blower going cheap that will blow your wig clean off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 I Think you will find the blower Tom has is for bouncy castles, medium rated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomN Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 It is a bouncy castle blower! I find it diffuclt to get control with the slide. Plus after a while, the slide gets hot as well and i've almost burnt my hand on it. I suppose I could just practice with it. The blower is smegging loud.I could put it in a near by shed and have the door nearly shut I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Hi Tom, If the slide handle is getting hot, extend it and fit a cage twist on as a handle, it should also slide easily, It may be that it is getting a little surface rust on as it is being left for a few days, and this is causing it to stick, give it a spray with some lubricant, and work it so it works smooth before you light up, Another option may be to oil the pivot bolt on the handle, and if it is still stiff, try easing it off slightly to loosen it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan P. Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 I Think you will find the blower Tom has is for bouncy castles, medium rated Aaah, I see. Well, Tom, if you want another one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Another option to reduce your air flow may be to increase the clearance on the slide valve by putting in some spacers which will then allow the air to exhaust around the slide reducing the amount going to the pot. Make sure the peg locating in the slide is also moving freely. We will get it sorted. If you bring your motor with you next time you are down at Westpoint we can try the dimmer I have on it to see if it will work, Cant find out if the motor has brushes or not having a look will help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan P. Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Actually Tom, now I think of it, I could set you up with the metalwork and woodwork of an old set of cylindrical bellows. It's a lot of work, needs all new leather, but free to a good home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomN Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 The slide isn't a problem and is loose enough. Its just hard to get it working exactly how I want it! I will just have to practice I suppose. I do want to explore the option of a dimmer switch in the future though, as if I get my own house and can build my own worshop in the garden, that blower will be extremely loud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomN Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 Thats a very generous offer Dan. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't tempted! Currently pretty busy, so wouldn't have time to get them up and working for a while. I'd like a pair of bellows some day, but i'd rather you gave them to a 'good' home instead of me sticking them in a shed for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan P. Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Thats a very generous offer Dan. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't tempted! Currently pretty busy, so wouldn't have time to get them up and working for a while. I'd like a pair of bellows some day, but i'd rather you gave them to a 'good' home instead of me sticking them in a shed for a while. And that is the reason I have two sets sitting in my shed! Oh dear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomN Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 Hah. Know the feeling mate. I had a look at your website. Nicely laid out. Seems your not far away from me either. I'm right in west oxfordshire, so would be a short drive to yours. If you ever need a second pair of hands in the forge and I am free, i'd be willining to come and give you a hand. As long as i'm learning something I will be happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy Honcho Gregory Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 I'm thinkin of using this on my blower motor. Any comments ?http://www.harborfreight.com/momentary-power-foot-switch-96619.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 I'm thinkin of using this on my blower motor. Any comments ?http://www.harborfre...itch-96619.html Looks like it would be a pain, why not use the switch on the wall? The huge advantage of a blower over bellows is that you are not tied to the forge whist heating, you can get on and do other stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 tom , get a smaller blower... save the bouncy castle one for smelts . I have used .25hp blowers for forges and they have plenty (if they are high pressure enough) you could divert part of the air with a Y and this would halve the flow you could then chuck the excess at the bottom of your forge pan to keep it cool. if your slide is too hot position it nearer the blower. better too much air than too little ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Another reason is that the blower itself is incredibly noisey and gets on my nerves a bit. I'd rather just have the fire 'ticking over' most of the time. I put all my fans into 20/25mm thick plywood boxes and have an indirect (baffled) air inlet, they are rubber mounted in the boxes and the boxes sit on rubber feet to counter any vibration. I use a flexible hose (industrial vacuum cleaner) to connect to the slide valve. The mig cooling fan is louder than the 1hp three phase fan now...it is a 500 amp 1970's Norman Butters mig with a big fan I should add! The three phase fan is an induction motor and cannot be simply controlled so is running flat out constantly and the slide valve does it all. Peter Parkinson did this at Farnham Art school where there were 8 fans going for a full class and the constant noise was awful, transformed the forge. Dick Quinnel had a big fan outside and a piped system to all the forges at Rowhurst. Nigel Barnet made up a similar piped distribution system for the BABA forge-in hearths using grey plastic rainwater/drain tubes I made up a speed controller for the Alcosa F20m fan from components from RS. I also made up a 25amp one which is great for slowing down an angle grinder if you want to grind a knife blade and not get too much heat. These are not cheap like your light dimmer but they are robust. 5 years ago the components were 60 odd pounds You could be better off buying a dedicated speed controller from Machine Mart, they do them for their ventilation fans. 18 years ago they were 15 pounds! Hope some of that helps. Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 I have just bought a 3 phaze high pressure blower to feed my school forges in a ring main....... I will have the blower mounter out of the school. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 I have just bought a 3 phaze high pressure blower to feed my school forges in a ring main....... I will have the blower mounter out of the school. If you make up one of the boxes I described above you would save yourself the hassle of holes through the wall and weather proofing the fan and electrics...they also make a useful surface for yet more clutter! I heard a tale of a smith using a similar big diameter narrow bladed three phase fan. He just used to fire up the motor and then turn it off, they rotate for minutes afterwards, when it finally died down he would give it another pulse, he reckoned it halved his electricity consumption! ps @ basher if you want a spare three phase fan I have ended up with two or three. I would like a spare Alcosa F20M so if you have or come across one of those let me know for a swap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Roy Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 I had the same problem when I started out; too much blower capacity and the associated noise. I had installed a shut-off gate at the blower discharge to control air flow. But I couldn't stand the noise. I put a rheostat on the line and can control the blower speed down to a manageable level. I set it for a fixed speed and control the flow with the slide gate and shut the gate when I am not heating iron. The blower still makes more noise than I like and may build an enclosure around it when I find the time. If I were starting over, I would buy a smaller blower, but until it burns out I'll keep going; eight years and counting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisG Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Um, my 2 cents..... I have a standard home dimmer switch connected to my blower. It has been working for 2 yrs now with no problems, I do however have to blow it out from time to time. The catch to all this? I use a mid efficiency combustion chamber blower from a furnace. If you, or anyone would like pics I can do that for you. Thing works like a darn. Oh and it is connected to a large pot if I remember 6x6x 5 deep, 3" supply pipe. metal cold to burnt maybe a min. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomN Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 Well I fiddled today and got things working better. Put the blower in the shed, so it is also protected if it rains. And held the door near shut with a brick. Got used to the slidea bit more today and things went pretty well, all considered. So i'm happier now! Heres a few images. Shows the length of tubing and also the innadequate connection to the forge: As you can see the tubing is aproximately 100mm diameter and the forge inlet is 80mm. Means I have to attach it poorly with gaffer tape at the moment. Need to work out a better fix for the future! Did get more control over the fire and it was a little quieter with ear plugs in. Heres an image of me heating some tongs, whilst drawing out the reins. A LOT of work with a 4lb hammer. Next time I think I will forge weld on the reins! Thanks for all the advice. It is much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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