Sam Salvati Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Here is a stand I fabricated up tonight, wanted to put my new to me welder through it's paces, and get more stick practice in. Came out good, I like it and there's lots more room for tongs now, plus some lower storage. Stick looks like poo but sure is strong! Also shown is my vise shock absorber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backwoods Blacksmith Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Nice job. What rod are you useing? I use 6010 for jobs like this. Less amps, deeper penetration and can weld dirty or rusty metal. Plus you can run down hill if necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Thanks BB! I used 6011, Grizzly sells it as Rust Buster which sounds like the welding I do hehe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted T Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Thanks Sam I must have missed school the day they taught about installing shock absorbers on the post vice leg. You must like it or you would not use it. Now ya got me thinking!!! :rolleyes: :unsure: :blink: :huh: :D MUmmmmmmmmmmm! I got an idea!!! Thanks again Sam! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Thank you Ted! I was kinda kidding about the shock absorber, but I do want to try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_m Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Thank you Ted! I was kinda kidding about the shock absorber, but I do want to try it. I didn't realize that was a joke, you should try it sometime and see how it works out. I cut my leg short like Brian's (not quite as much, the top of the jaws are at 30"), and welded the leg to a piece of 7/8" flat bar. The bar is bolted to the slab, with 1/4" piece of rubber between the steel and concrete for a shock absorber. The main plate under the vise stand has the same thing under it. Works well. Picture and description here: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Yeah I will try it for sure. I got a bunch of those springs and figured it might fit and it did, i kinda laughed but then thought about it for a moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric sprado Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 6010 is for DC applications. 6011 is equivalent rod for AC applications.Simple as that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Oh cool, I am still learning about stick and different rods and stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 I like to have my tongs a bit higher---makes it easier to grab them by the *cold* end; but would interfere with the stuff in your vise or table top. I have a traveling forge that has pipe legs that fit inside slightly larger pipes welded to the forge table with washers welded on top as a stop. I made a tong and hammer holder by bending a bow of 3/8" round stock with legs bent down that fit into the holes in the washers and down inside the pipes---easy to remove and so makes the forge table easier to pack too. Since I am a smith I also bent loops in the bow to hold hammers. My first smaller one worked so well I made a larger and "loopier" one and can use both of them by putting the smaller one on the end the blower attaches too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob S Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 needs more cowbell.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinton Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 eric is correct on this 6010 is dc electrode positive ONLY. I would like to add one thing to that also- 6011 is better for rusty, painted, oily or otherwise dirty metal. It is more of a "farm rod" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 needs more cowbell.... Stick makes solid welds!!! Even if they are ugly. Hang this thing from the ceiling and it rings like a bell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scampbell Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 my pops was a pipe fitter, and always told me use the 6010, its an all around rod that doesn't need that much maintenance, and the 6011 is a bit more needy, and wants a CLEAN surface. but that's just my .02 cents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 I am gonna get some 1 pound packs of different rods from mcmaster in a couple weeks top try them all out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Sam, Aren't you going to need a counterbalance on the other side of that vise stand? There are so many tongs on that one side it looks like it is going to tip over. Nice job on the shock absorber. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 No worries yet Jerry :D Let me make some mor tongs then i'll see hehe. Gonna put one of my spare anvils on th ebottom shelf there to weight it down a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Emig Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Once you get some time burning rods, you can make very nice clean beads. It's the old "how do you get to Carnegie Hall" thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 you can use 7018 on ac or dc. it also gives you more structure. you do have prep alittle more but when welding when is there not a grinder or wire brush around. another great rod to have is 6022. it burns alittle hotter for a 60 series rod but runs more like 7018. is great for welding decking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 But I don't *want* my vise leg to have "bounce" in it I want a rigid structure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 Then you don't put a spring on and leave others to do what they want! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firefarm39 Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Well Sam, if the shock absorber doesn't work out, looks like you could use the vise as a Pogo stick! :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob S Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 needs more cowbell... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thingmaker3 Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 The spring is a good add since 6011 rods were used. Wouldn't need the spring if low-hydrogen rods had been available. :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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