dimenickel Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 nice ! i like your twisting jig... that is a good idea and i bet it would be good on small iron aswell...since the vice steals the heat super fast on thin stock very nice gate... very good to see the work that goes into this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 I am enjoying this thread imensely and have learned much! PLEASE keep posting the info and pictures! I love the twisting contraption...seems like it would work a lot better than direct contact with the vise. I also like the way you handled the slit and drift. (I am supposing that the "slit and drift on the diamond" thread was in reference to this project.) I like the twists on either side to get the slit and drift area on the flat. The transition is great, and eliminates the need for the diamond slit. The idea of the diamond slit and drift is neat, but I haven't seen any really clean, really attractive examples. One question about the power hammer grooving. I see you have a stop mounted on the power hammer but it doesn't seem to be doing anything in the grooving process. I suppose it is just left over from a previous heat. There is no stop as far as I can tell, for the chisel depth. Do you have that much control with the hammer? I've used a large Saymak and the 115 Big Blue, and they have pretty good control. Even my JY Kinyon air hammer has a decent amount of control. I don't know about using it for even grooving. So is there not a stop, you simply have enough control and confidence to groove without a stop? Just wondering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gayle Brooks Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 Yeah. It was a discussion when I was presented with the drawing about doing the slit and drift on the diamond. Though there is always not enough time on the projects and didnt have the time to make the tooling to try it out. So an alternative joint that still does the job. There is a stop on the bottom die. The piece rides that and keeps the material in a given space so my grove is a line rather than a choppy line. Im using a 75 lb bull. I use this hammer for about everything and believe I could probably perform dental surgery under it given the hours I have using it. (kidding) Also have a tool I hold with some tongs and can walk a line under the hammer as well if needed. That though requires doing the line cold first so you can feel it when its hot under the hammer. So yes, no stop for the hammer; all treadle control. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Like I've said before, my jobs are always on a much smaller scale, but the "not enough time" factor is still there. Ok! I understand! That's pretty slick about using the stop on the bottom die as an edge stop. That's a simple solution but I wonder how long it would have taken me to figure it out if I had to do some lines like that! LOL I need to make a chisel for the upper die on my air hammer. I had to do a square bar twist with chisel lines down each side. The lines were about 24 inches long on all four sides. With my current tool inventory I had to use my little tiny chasing chisel to get the line started and then use a handheld cold chisel and hammer. (All done cold.) It took longer than it would have to put in a different top die and do it under the power hammer. :) Thanks for sharing the process! It's taught me quite a bit so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironstein Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Amazing work! For the square stock ripped on the diamond, did you use a vertical bandsaw? Seems like a tedious process. For the tenons do you use a power hammer jig? (null) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gayle Brooks Posted May 6, 2012 Author Share Posted May 6, 2012 Yes I used a rollin saw and ripped them. The tenons were done under the hammer with tooling as well and cleaned up at the anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gayle Brooks Posted May 11, 2012 Author Share Posted May 11, 2012 So this week is what I have done. This is on hold again next week since I need to forge some fire doors. Once I get started on assembly I really dont want to stop. Since I am working at a half at a time I am trying to work each half together. In that I don't have one side that is great and the other mediocre.One side put together with parts for the other side getting fit. Also made some "keepers" out of 1/2" round, tubing and a 5/16" bolt"keepers" out of 1/2" round, tubing and a 5/16" bolt7' wide 7' tall. Axle dog for scale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 Ohhh I'm getting soooo excited. I always like when you get enough pieces done to lay it all out and sort of see the finished project. (Then it seems like there is an endless list of tweaking before you can start on assembly.) Looking great! Can't wait to see the rest of the progress! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Kailey Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 Well done! the photos are great!!! I look forwar to seeing it installed!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomN Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 Wonderful stuff. You seem to have your own unique style as well. Very inspiring. Hope to keep seeing more of your work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 Has this project progressed anymore or is it still on the back burner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gayle Brooks Posted July 24, 2012 Author Share Posted July 24, 2012 I apologize. Had some projects to get done and this got put on hold. Jumped back on it this last week.Forging the button. Used a 3/4" round bar to reach in between the grillhave a layout to throw it on and see if it is still square. If its not I have welded angle iron anchors to clamp to and heat where I need to straighten itended up putting this on its side so I could reach around it easily. I use the crane to help hoist it around.been placing little set rivets--not all the way through the other side -- to keep certain things from walking, vs just welding it to the bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beth Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 the sections look fantastic rory really visually strong, and totally in the nature of the material. proper :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kburd Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 rory, Long time lurker and fan of your work. are you using the pipe stand in the video for both support and reference of where to end the transition of your scrolls? it apears to be in line with were your picket shaft should end up at. Great idea and great elements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 I've enjoyed looking at your approach, progression, and workmanship. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gayle Brooks Posted July 27, 2012 Author Share Posted July 27, 2012 Looking Awesome Rory, that Bull rocks too I bet you could bash some teeth out with it Thanks Sam :) I love ma bullthe sections look fantastic rory really visually strong, and totally in the nature of the material. proper :);) are you using the pipe stand in the video for both support and reference of where to end the transition of your scrolls? it apears to be in line with were your picket shaft should end up at. Great idea and great elements. Good eye! Yes but I knew there would be some tweaking once assembly started as well. I've enjoyed looking at your approach, progression, and workmanship. Thanks. You are quite welcome, sir :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gayle Brooks Posted July 27, 2012 Author Share Posted July 27, 2012 There are some forged points going ontop of these split details. I took some string and laid a line from the tops and then a parallel line once I determined what height looked nice in conjunction with the sketch Needed to get material ready for the collars. this grill will have about 60 of them, 25 feet of material is needed. Used some blue painters tape to quadruple check I was not forgetting anything Revisted the center and needed some serious adjustment. High fiddle factor here. Ended up tweaking half of the scrolls. You can see were I laid out my lines for the points. I am also checking not only they ride on their designated line, but are also the same distance from the center, each other and the ring behind them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 Great to see this project back on the table! I was afraid you had finished it and had not had time to post about it. Love the idea of the parallel strings to check the height on the upright eliments. The painters tape on the collar areas is great too! A couple of questions on the collars! Are you doing plain or decorative collars? Are they going to be butted or overlapped? What size stock? Are you tack welding under the collars? (Sorry, had to ask!) Are the collars being done hot or cold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HandsomeRyan Posted August 15, 2012 Share Posted August 15, 2012 Amazing work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 15, 2012 Share Posted August 15, 2012 I too am glad to see more progress pics, this is a grand project and you're doing a grand job on it. Thank you for the update, keep em coming please. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gayle Brooks Posted August 20, 2012 Author Share Posted August 20, 2012 Collars collars collars I have about three that are different shapes and different sizes. I dont think I really need to go over the math and steps for collar work, but in all I have alot to do! To answer your questions FieryFurnace: If I use a welder, I will detail them so you can not tell. Hopefully most will tighten up as they cool down. They are butted and we got 1" of 1/4 round and 3/4" of quarter round. Early prototype of the jig under the bull hammer. A bit tight, yeah? Ended up polishing the sides and if ya notice one side is lower, thats an issue as well. Ended up raising so it was level going into the tool. http://youtu.be/EnoEuNuJ6HE And da collars Front Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Tim215 Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 An awe inspiring WIP and thanks for sharing your tips and trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beth Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 great photos of the work rory - its looking fantastic :) looks so robust... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimenickel Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 like the rounded top collars .. they really look nice on the gate ! -are you closing them up with a wood mallet, or pinching them shut with tongs... i see no hammer marks at all .. ( which is nicely done !!! ) Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gayle Brooks Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 Glancing blows and I am using a 3/4" round bar to help me set them as well. I got all of the collars done and all is left is detailing and installing the mounts. Some progress pics of the center piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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