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I Forge Iron

Large Door Grill (progress pics)


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I am enjoying this thread imensely and have learned much! PLEASE keep posting the info and pictures!

I love the twisting contraption...seems like it would work a lot better than direct contact with the vise. I also like the way you handled the slit and drift. (I am supposing that the "slit and drift on the diamond" thread was in reference to this project.) I like the twists on either side to get the slit and drift area on the flat. The transition is great, and eliminates the need for the diamond slit. The idea of the diamond slit and drift is neat, but I haven't seen any really clean, really attractive examples.

One question about the power hammer grooving. I see you have a stop mounted on the power hammer but it doesn't seem to be doing anything in the grooving process. I suppose it is just left over from a previous heat. There is no stop as far as I can tell, for the chisel depth. Do you have that much control with the hammer? I've used a large Saymak and the 115 Big Blue, and they have pretty good control. Even my JY Kinyon air hammer has a decent amount of control. I don't know about using it for even grooving.
So is there not a stop, you simply have enough control and confidence to groove without a stop? Just wondering.

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Yeah. It was a discussion when I was presented with the drawing about doing the slit and drift on the diamond. Though there is always not enough time on the projects and didnt have the time to make the tooling to try it out. So an alternative joint that still does the job.

There is a stop on the bottom die. The piece rides that and keeps the material in a given space so my grove is a line rather than a choppy line. Im using a 75 lb bull. I use this hammer for about everything and believe I could probably perform dental surgery under it given the hours I have using it. (kidding) Also have a tool I hold with some tongs and can walk a line under the hammer as well if needed. That though requires doing the line cold first so you can feel it when its hot under the hammer.

So yes, no stop for the hammer; all treadle control.

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Like I've said before, my jobs are always on a much smaller scale, but the "not enough time" factor is still there.

Ok! I understand! That's pretty slick about using the stop on the bottom die as an edge stop. That's a simple solution but I wonder how long it would have taken me to figure it out if I had to do some lines like that! LOL

I need to make a chisel for the upper die on my air hammer. I had to do a square bar twist with chisel lines down each side. The lines were about 24 inches long on all four sides. With my current tool inventory I had to use my little tiny chasing chisel to get the line started and then use a handheld cold chisel and hammer. (All done cold.) It took longer than it would have to put in a different top die and do it under the power hammer. :)

Thanks for sharing the process! It's taught me quite a bit so far!

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So this week is what I have done. This is on hold again next week since I need to forge some fire doors. Once I get started on assembly I really dont want to stop.

Since I am working at a half at a time I am trying to work each half together. In that I don't have one side that is great and the other mediocre.

One side put together with parts for the other side getting fit. Also made some "keepers" out of 1/2" round, tubing and a 5/16" bolt

"keepers" out of 1/2" round, tubing and a 5/16" bolt

7' wide 7' tall. Axle dog for scale.


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Ohhh I'm getting soooo excited. I always like when you get enough pieces done to lay it all out and sort of see the finished project. (Then it seems like there is an endless list of tweaking before you can start on assembly.) Looking great! Can't wait to see the rest of the progress!

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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I apologize. Had some projects to get done and this got put on hold. Jumped back on it this last week.

Forging the button. Used a 3/4" round bar to reach in between the grill

have a layout to throw it on and see if it is still square. If its not I have welded angle iron anchors to clamp to and heat where I need to straighten it

ended up putting this on its side so I could reach around it easily. I use the crane to help hoist it around.

been placing little set rivets--not all the way through the other side -- to keep certain things from walking, vs just welding it to the bar.

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rory, Long time lurker and fan of your work. are you using the pipe stand in the video for both support and reference of where to end the transition of your scrolls? it apears to be in line with were your picket shaft should end up at. Great idea and great elements.

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Looking Awesome Rory, that Bull rocks too I bet you could bash some teeth out with it

Thanks Sam :) I love ma bull

the sections look fantastic rory really visually strong, and totally in the nature of the material. proper :)


are you using the pipe stand in the video for both support and reference of where to end the transition of your scrolls? it apears to be in line with were your picket shaft should end up at. Great idea and great elements.

Good eye! Yes but I knew there would be some tweaking once assembly started as well.

I've enjoyed looking at your approach, progression, and workmanship. Thanks.

You are quite welcome, sir :)
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There are some forged points going ontop of these split details. I took some string and laid a line from the tops and then a parallel line once I determined what height looked nice in conjunction with the sketch


Needed to get material ready for the collars. this grill will have about 60 of them, 25 feet of material is needed. Used some blue painters tape to quadruple check I was not forgetting anything


Revisted the center and needed some serious adjustment. High fiddle factor here. Ended up tweaking half of the scrolls. You can see were I laid out my lines for the points. I am also checking not only they ride on their designated line, but are also the same distance from the center, each other and the ring behind them.


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  • 2 weeks later...

Great to see this project back on the table! I was afraid you had finished it and had not had time to post about it.

Love the idea of the parallel strings to check the height on the upright eliments.

The painters tape on the collar areas is great too! A couple of questions on the collars! Are you doing plain or decorative collars? Are they going to be butted or overlapped? What size stock? Are you tack welding under the collars? (Sorry, had to ask!) Are the collars being done hot or cold?

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Collars collars collars

I have about three that are different shapes and different sizes. I dont think I really need to go over the math and steps for collar work, but in all I have alot to do! To answer your questions FieryFurnace:

If I use a welder, I will detail them so you can not tell. Hopefully most will tighten up as they cool down. They are butted and we got 1" of 1/4 round and 3/4" of quarter round.

Early prototype of the jig under the bull hammer. A bit tight, yeah? Ended up polishing the sides and if ya notice one side is lower, thats an issue as well. Ended up raising so it was level going into the tool.

And da collars

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