mike-hr Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Howdy, Mike Limb and I worked together and built 2 hammers at the same time so we'd each have one. We bribed Keane Randall to come down and help with the assembly, Thanks Keane. Here's 3 video clips, #1 is me talking about how it works, #2 is isolating a cube and tapering back in 1 inch square, #3 is forging a faceted ball from the cube. #1 mh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike-hr Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 Video #2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike-hr Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 video #3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin W Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Nice, verry verry nice. Thanks for making my lunch time fun. Could you give a quick contrast to that little giant style hammer beside (50lbs?) your new fantabulous contrabulation. Now back to work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Shimanek Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Nice hammer and nice forging, Mike! It was great having you visit, hope we can get over there sometime. Aloha, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trinculo Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 NIce build. The design keeps evolving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backwoods Blacksmith Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Mike, Nice job. I like the head modfication. I just got mine finished and put air to it. Did you have any trouble getting full stroke? I am only gettin about two in strokes. Goes up all the way, trips the limit vv, starts down and then quickly returns up. I have no idea. Plenty of air 100psi delievered to the machine in 3/4 pipe and then 1/2 pipe and hose per the book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backwoods Blacksmith Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Just watched the #3 video. Having a relief in the front of the anvil is a neat feature, and not one that I would have thought of. I set my anvil shaft square and set the dies at 45. I am ready to go if I can get the air straighten out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike-hr Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 Kevin, the hammer behind is a 1909-ish Perfect brand 80# mechanical. It's a fine machine for what it is. I'm actually fairly proficient at getting it to make stuff. I got spoiled visiting friends with air hammers and marveled at the light blow control. The ability to make differing amounts of thump, at different heights started me to thinking about the new hammer. Steve, Thanks. We all had a blast at your place, most likely return around new years, I ain't forgot we owe you guys dinner... Backwoods, I guess I would start off making sure the ram is free to go up and down with no tight spots or mechanical jams (bolt heads, etc). Next I would start moving the shuttle bracket in 1/4 inch increments one way or the other. There were some folks in Oregon that got some wrong info, and bought dual air feed master valves instead of single air feed type, and hijinks ensued. If you got the one in the Kinyon book, that shouldn't be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backwoods Blacksmith Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 Thanks for the info. I have a single inlet. I make have a kinked upper cylinder hose causing the problem. It isn't really kinked but it it isn't round either. This may cause enough back pressure to trip the shuttle valve. No binding problems and the hammer will fall under its own weight. I have moved to trip vv up and down with no change in the limited travel. Something is causing the shuttle vv to move too soon. Will know more tomorrow. This will teach me to cut the hose shorter than it needs to be if this is the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHPerdue Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 Hi Mike That is a great job on the Hammer. It looks like it hits real hard. I welded my Tup head to the bottom of the bars I was worried if I used bolts they may back out, but that is just me. I started my hammer back in Feb. but after sittin around with no jobs all winter I have them coming out of the wood work so need to take care of them before I can get it finished. I like your anvil mod to get a better angle for close to die work. Did you have any problems with the bars and bushings when welding the blocks to the side plates? I had to line bore my bushings after welding because they got tight. Hey Backwoods. Are you using the check valves on the spool valve inputs? I have herd that some valves are affected by reversion pulses caused by reverse air flows when the ram reverses. I know Keen and John didn't use them but some of the builders I have talked with say they are a must for smooth operation. I also went to a 3/4" flapper valve to help with control of the exhaust air a little better. I plan to use two pilot valves so I can adjust the hammer like a treadle hammer to do single blows. Make sure the pilot valve is exhausted, you can't block the exhaust port. I know you already know this but just checking. It is great to see more of these hammers being DIY'ed. Happy St Patty's Day CH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike-hr Posted March 17, 2012 Author Share Posted March 17, 2012 CH, The head blocks were welded as one piece, then line bored. We had that farmed out and I'm sad we did. They should have line bored, then pressed the bushings in, then took a clean up cut thru the bushings since the machine was already set up. We got back the head block that was line bored, and had to press in our own bushings, which meant several episodes with a large brake hone to get things a'sliding back and forth. It wasn't a huge ordeal, but one of the reasons we didn't want to weld anything on the head, was to prevent any more warping of the shafts. A good argument for bronze bushings over linear bearings is the ability to hone the parts to working tolerances. Backwoods, Another thing to look for, is, little bits of stray teflon tape or plumbing goo that might have slipped past the fitting and wedged into the master valve body. We ended up taking the push-on hose fittings apart a time or two, I was carefull about taking a wooden match and digging out the tape chaff that was laying in the threads. mh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHPerdue Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 Yeep Mike, I agree. I should have welded the block to plates also, and then finished line boring the blocks before the bushings were pressed in. I did that after I figured that out :lol: even then I still had to hone the bushings to get the blocks to slide real free. After seeing your hammer with the 3" cylinder I'm thinking that my 2.5" is a little small :o I don't have a problem with air supply and should have went with my first feeling that a 3+ inch cyclinder is more tunable. I think you can really tune the hammer better with air pressure a lot better than a 2.5". I got to hand it to you going with the 3", 2 big tumbs up. :) We'll give it a try and see what it does. This is great to get the info out there so others can build their hammers with better info. Again Great job on the hammer. HH CH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backwoods Blacksmith Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 The 3 in cylinder is a definate improvment over the 2 1/2 if you have the air. I think the design was for small air compressors. I used no teflon tape and very little pipe dope on the fittings. Been there before. also am using check vvs on the two exaust ports and inlet. I think the air hose is just crimped enough at the cylinder to cause back pressure. I will be changing that today. Had to get new sensor hose fittings and won't have them till Monday. Mike, once again your head design may require a little more work and planning but the results tell the tale. If I ever wear out my current head/shaft I will end up with the duel shaft, bushing set up. I also went with a foot vv set up to open the exaust instead of a treadle and ball valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianinsa Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Mike, that is one awsome hammer! it would be great if you were prepared to do some photo's too as your hammer is really so compact . John E. really has some good ideas, another one of his that is worth er "borrowing"(sorry John) is his(well the one he uses) tool changing setup that he has for powerhammer top & bottom tooling. Thanks for posting. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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