MarkC Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Was wondering if anyone had any experience stamping letters/words into mild steel plate? I've got to get some words onto 3/16" plate (doesn't really matter the method.) I've never had much luck getting nice crisp letters when stamping. Another idea I had was to make a "stencil" out of another steel plate, affix to the project plate, and "brush" the letters into the surface with the knotted-cup on the angle grinder, or perhaps go a different route and use a hot brass brush. I'm going to seal the surface with clear sealer and there won't be much wear and tear on this. (it's basically a sculpture/trophy type piece) Any of your thoughts are welcomed Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 What sort of Press have you been using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 What letter size? I like your brass brush idea, but you need to heat the plate, not the brush. If you mask the letters out and cut them in a vinyl mask or photo resist mask you can acid etch. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkC Posted March 3, 2012 Author Share Posted March 3, 2012 hmm, I've never done it with a press, always tried with stamp punches... that's why they've never come out very sharp eh? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkC Posted March 3, 2012 Author Share Posted March 3, 2012 acid etch it! good lord, you're a genius Phil! hadn't even crossed my mind. That is a great idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beth Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 mark thats a beautiful looking flower on your avatar - do you have any more pictures? :) i always use letter punches too - do most people use a press then? mine never come out brilliantly.... but i have presumed that is my technique. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 A friend uses an arbor press, He milled a slot int the ram and put in a couiplpe set screws to hold his tamp in plae, He preasses the stamp in place an then taps top of ram with hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacksmithpete Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Hi Mark Heres my 2 cents worth I do letter punch stamping all the time and have found free had to work best for me stamping into hot material [black heat] gives best results also I find the when placing each stamp the first position is usually the best the more I fidle fart around trying to line up each letter the harder it is there is a set of interchangable stamps you can buy made by pryor very costly but do work well iI use them in a presS Good luck B S Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Clamp a bar to the work to use as a fence on the shank of the stamp to align the letters, One firm whack will punch the letter, a lot of problems occur because people will rest their hammer on top of the stamp/punch, or lightly tap the stamp/punch before striking it firmly, this allows the tool to wander from the original placemen causing misalignment and shadow punching Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Clamp a bar to the work to use as a fence on the shank of the stamp to align the letters, One firm whack will punch the letter, a lot of problems occur because people will rest their hammer on top of the stamp/punch, or lightly tap the stamp/punch before striking it firmly, this allows the tool to wander from the original placemen causing misalignment and shadow punching I do it this way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Would also advise doing a test run first to ensure each stamp is in central alignment on the shank, I have one set of stamps that has a rogue one in and have to make allowances to get it to line up, it is marked with paint so I know which one it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Seelye Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 I stamp by hand and the first set I ever used had a notch where your thumb of your holding hand contacted the steel. This way you always had a double check if your stamp was orented in the correct direction. Using a guide is always good too if the object has enough room. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beth Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 great idea john .. blacksmith pete - why do you say black heat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 If you want to do your own lettering instead of using stamps look up Fritz Kuhn and his books. He used a thicker plate and set tools and hammered down everything that wasn't the lettering leaving the letters higher than the plate. Beautiful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 great idea john .. blacksmith pete - why do you say black heat? Hi Beth, Simple like me, most bought decent quality stamps in the UK also have an identification letter on the front of the shank so you can orient it when in use., bit like the notch idea. As for Pete's recommendation, Think about black heat, think about tempering temperatures, think about what's going to happen if you put a small hardened stamp onto a big red hot piece of metal, Is light appearing yet? Also does not take as much whopping to stamp deep. Saving energy, I like that, particularly when its mine I am saving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beth Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 :) it wrecks the hardness of the letter?.... is it just cos they are usually tiny? im way more simple than you john .... i just dont think do i? :) thought it would work better softer, but you just need to hit it right once i guess... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacksmithpete Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 John B your spot on 1 good hit is all it takes none of this tapping I see so often the fence idea is good I use to use this but you still have to get your spacing correct Beth when you are using stamps and your fingures are about an inch away from the steel trust me you dont want it too hot also the steel will be cleaner B S Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 :) it wrecks the hardness of the letter?.... is it just cos they are usually tiny? im way more simple than you john .... i just dont think do i? :) thought it would work better softer, but you just need to hit it right once i guess... There you go Beth, You got it ! You did know, just had to search your own databank a bit. Of course you think, Just a bit differently and more thoroughly, probably takes longer 'cos there's more in there. You and Jake lose me with all your talk and ideas and interpretations, can't get my head around it all, This metal bashing, is just making scrap to me, might be good looking and well made, but scrap, Until someone pays money for, or appreciates "it", whatever "it" may be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Good stuff here. I like the ideas and suggestions, and will give the fence a try next time I need to stamp. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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