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I Forge Iron

Help with 300 lb. Beaudry


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What a beaut! Bigest cluch model I've ever seen......First and easyist tweak on the clutch is the turnbuckle if it feels too far out, that is if you have to push down to the outside of the pedal stroke to engage it then shorten it a bit. If the motor goes under load when you do this at an idle then it gets hairy. The two set screws inside that spread the ring may be in need of adjustment and that means the bull wheel has to come off. I don't know what that honker weighs but I helped do a 50# a few weeks ago and it was all two of us could do to handle it.....Yours would be impossible without the right equipment. Hopefully this isn't the case.The good news is once the ring adjustment is done it's good to go for quite awhile. How is it running now?........One thing about the 50 I helped with (I used to own it) is the ring needs to be oiled imo to slip freely, my buddy had his so crammed full of grease it was rediculous. Feed oil in where the gap is inside the beltway....mb

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Thanks Bruce I'll try tightening the turnbuckle some more. I've done a bit of forging with it already but the clutch takes quite a bit before it grabs. Hope I don't have to take it apart but my jib swings over it so I can if I have to.

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Thanks Bruce I'll try tightening the turnbuckle some more. I've done a bit of forging with it already but the clutch takes quite a bit before it grabs. Hope I don't have to take it apart but my jib swings over it so I can if I have to.

Just make sure you do a bomb proof rigging, and that will be tough cause they're so awkward to a get purchase on em.....
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One other tidbit....Some times it's difficult to tell if the mtr is going under load. If you hook an amprobe the the pwr line on the mtr and then shorten the turnbuckle look to see if the amps have gone up....if so you're at the end. Running the motor at idle speed with even a small increase in amps day in and day out will add up to a shorter mtr life.

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I have a 250 beaudry with a slip belt and 300 beaudry just like yours. On my 300 there is a adjustment nut on the inside of the drive pulley, it is exactly like a slack adjuster nut on truck air breaks, I had to bend a box end wrench to reach in and get on the nut. There is a collar that slips up and locks the nut, push the collar down with the wrench, now you can turn the nut (counter clockwise I think) to tighten the clutch it dose not take much. I tighten it with the break loose. When the clutch is engaging and disengaging nicely then tighten the break. Go slow with the adjustments. Each time you adjust one it will affect the other two.
Good luck
Chuck

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That is a beautiful hammer ,And yes that is what the serial number means I have just finished a belt driven # 4 and currently working on a #7 motor driven one like yours , how long have you had the hammer Did it come from Nova Scotia? if so I called about that hammer but it was going to cost a fortune to get it here it is a beautiful hammer and later model, I wanted it in the worst way, I have a breakdown of the clutch if you need one let me know I, you may need to replace the steel roller in the clutch or the ingaging ring has worn abit thin, you will love that hammer when you get it tuned right, heres a pic of my #4 i just finished i should have it power up by Sunday or monday i finished the drive tower acouple days ago, again beautiful hammer and I,m glad to see it running.Willey
dd22.jpg

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Wow, great job on that hammer. Yes my hammer is the one that was in Nova Scotia, it got here Feb. 9. Cost me $800 to ship it halfway across Canada. I would love to have a breakdown of the clutch. Even not tuned-up I'm really impressed with this hammer and glad I made the decision to buy it.

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Nice hammer, I also wanted to pick it up... but it was in a very difficult to pick location at the lunenberg forge... seemed like the building was built around it .... originally, the owner started at 6500 for it and went all the way down to 3500 last i checked
- also as far as i know.. the old owner never ran the hammer at all ! from the iron work that he did, nothing came remotely close to needing that size hammer

I'm so glad it didn't go to the godless scrappers ...

It musta cost an arm and a leg to get it rigged out of that building.. that musta taken some doing

very lucky to have such a nice hammer..

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It cost a bit more than $300 to (one guy wanted over a grand) to get it out of the building. It had come from a different shop just down the road when the previous owner got it. He says he used it , I just don't think he used it very hard.

Chuck, with the ram down which side should I be looking at to find that adjuster nut?

K A Willey, my wife wants to know if you also got teased about having an "internet love affair" with a power hammer ? :)

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i have pictures of it in the shop, somewhere..... had to take some as i thought it was the nicest lookin hammer i've seen

the main shop hammer was a 50lbs LG, and a friend bought that one up... it had seen some hard use... top end bearings are totally washed out...

not gonna argue with what the old owner said...... just that i know otherwise

by the way... about 2 years ago there was another 300lb in southern ontario... that was for sale at 5500 on kijiji for a long time... didn't hear anything lately bout it

the beaudry's are rare up here in Canada, nice to see some still running

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You can tell her no I just love Beaudry's(there almost better than a woman ha ha) I have 3 of them a #2 #4 and a #7 2 belt driven, completely restored and in use and one clutch model in the process I am tearing it down completely, once I'm done with it I'll never have to touch it again in my lifetime,other than adjusting and lube .heres a pic of my little #2, on your hammer can you set the stroke lenth or is it fixed?, all mine you can set the crank stroke on my clutch the adjusting screw is on the bottom slightly to right when you slide the main split drive pully open a bit you should be able to look right up at it .Hope you get her tuned the way you want it. pm me with your address. The Beaudry,s and Bradleys are the best mechanicals I've run and for me and the work I do the Beaudry is the King.
Willey
100_7184.jpg

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Chuck I think your hammer must be quite a bit newer or older than mine. I had the whole clutch apart this morning and learnt a fair bit.
What you see in the photo is the roller at the end of the lever that turns the expansion pin that engages the clutch.
I'm going to run it this way for a while, I think the exterior adjustments are enough for now.

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Hi Jim
The SN # on my 300 lb is 4404.
When I got my hammer every thing that moved was rusted tight, it sat out side for 15 years that I know of, I think I spent about 2 weeks gently breaking everything loose, then I got a new 7.5 hp motor, built a jack shaft used 4 v belts from the jack shaft to the clutch pulley.
Had to adjust the clutch every day till it polished the rust off the inside of the clutch pulley. Orange clouds of rust filled the air. The clutch has a nasty habit of slightly grabbing when don't want it to, it seems to get better with use, one thing I did that helped the most was to shorten the stroke up, that put the whole machine in a lot better balance. All in all it is a great tool and has made me alot of money.
I like the slip belt on the #8 so much better than the clutch on the 300 that I am thinking about locking up the clutch with the adjustment and using a slip belt on it.
Please keep us informed on your progress and let me know what you do for the foundation for your 300.

Chuck

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So your hammer is two years newer, they must have changed the clutch mechanism a bit in that time. I'm thinkin that my clutch is grabbing pretty smooth now. Forged some 2" sq. S-5 into a hardie today and I think I'm going to love this hammer.
I started prepping the shop in early January as soon as I knew we had a deal. Moved my 50# Canadian Giant across the shop and started digging. I only went down 18" but I know whats under my shop. I put in 35 Mpa concrete with rebar placed so as not to interfere with drilling the boltholes later. That was Feb. 1, drilled the holes 28 days later and epoxied the 1 1/4" threaded rod 12" into the concrete. I put a rubber stall mat and some boxcar flooring between the hammer and the concrete.

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  • 3 months later...

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