GMoore Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I've done a bit of MIG welding, but am going to take a MIG welding class at a nearby community college. I want to build a table (4' x 8') to put in my blacksmith shop. I plan on putting rollers on the legs (4 or 6 legs?), and want to have a lower shelf (full sized) for storage, maybe something to hold tools along the end, maybe a leg vice, etc. For the top, I would like a heavy plate (how heavy, I don't know - up to 1"). Suggestions, please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 1" is probably overkill (of course, it depends on what you want to make). I have two 4x8 tables and both have 1/4" tops, which I would concede is somewhat light, but I would never go heavier than 1/2" unless I was doing really BIG work. The important thing is to put enough steel in the table frame and get that part dead flat, then all you have to do is tack the top in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeatGuy Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I am building a new fab table at work hope this helps. bradFabTable.PDF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blacksmith Johnny Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I used two sheets of 1/4 , it was easier to move and cheaper then one 1/2 inch, beats me why. Maby it was based on what they had in the yard i dont know but it has worked out well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry H Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 On a 4x8, if you are going to beat on it with 16 or 20 lb sledges, be sure to have a sturdy framework, I have 8"... "i" beam frame... with a cross bar,....It is starting to dent. ( Maybe the 40 ton jack has something to do with that ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 I say never go lighter than 1/2''. Heating and beating even on a limited basis will warp it.....If you can afford the 1'' do it and you may never need another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNewman Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 I agree with 1/2" as a minimum. I would bolt the top down to keep it from warping. Go with the 1" if you can afford it. I would make sure you set the bottom stretchers at a height that you can move it with a pump cart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 I agree with 1/2" as a minimum. I would bolt the top down to keep it from warping. Bolts are one way.....my 4x10x3/4 is on tp of two I beams and I welded it to the beams with a MINIMUM of welds to prevent warping and hold it down..........I knew a guy who welded a 4'x8'x1'' plate to 8x8'' legs 12'' in on the corners all the way around the tube and it ruined the table.........ouch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWHII Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 I agree with everyone else here. Heavier is better. Your support frame is very inportant if you are going to go with a lighter plate. Build it stout. How ever I would suggest not putting a shelf underneath. They always end up being a catch all. If you really want one, use expanded metal for the shelf material. This will help keep the scale, dirt and grinding debree from building up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 . Build it stout. How ever I would suggest not putting a shelf underneath. They always end up being a catch all. ....That' what the floor underneath it is for...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNewman Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 When I built the base for my platen table, I put drawers under the table. Occasionally they are in the way and because they are plywood they occasionally catch fire but I wouldn't be without them. They hold a lot of my miscellaneous tools such as drifts, v blocks, swages, wire brushes and special hammer dies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWHII Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 ....That' what the floor underneath it is for...... Right on brother! Thats were I throw everthing not flamable. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old N Rusty Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 My main fab table is a piece of warship armor plate 2-1/4" thick , 8' x 8' it weighs more than 5,000 lbs. It is ideal for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blacksmith Johnny Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Dang O&R where did you find that, thats awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old N Rusty Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 An oilfield scrap yard very close to my shop. They had several that were used for road crossings. and they delivered it by cherrypicker!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blacksmith Johnny Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 nice find ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMoore Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 I'm in the middle of building the table. 4' by 8', 3/4" steel top surface sitting on 6 , 4" by 4" steel tube legs (1/4" walls) and a 4" (1/4" wall) angle iron frame. The two center legs will also have a 4" tube brace running across the underside of the table surface. The legs are all to be fitted with 6" steel casters (two with brakes). The underside will also have a 4" angle iron frame sitting near the bottom of the framework with ma braced expanded metal shelf. A vice will be fastened to one corner and a tool rack will be welded along one edge. The table will probably weigh in at about 1200 pounds and everything except the top surface will be painted stove blackl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Sounds like a good setup.....Don't get carried away welding the plate to the frame and warp that top plate, besides you may want to flip it in the future...... ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstermetal Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 There is no such thing as a table that's too thick, only a wallet that's too thin... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy Traylor Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 Go to bearhill blacksmith and click on shop tour. Best shop ideas I have seen. I am copying his table with the sliding extensions right now. If anyone tackles this here is a hint. 2" OD 1/4" wall square tube will slide nicely inside 2 1/2" OD 1/4" wall square tube EXCEPT for the welding slag inside the seam of the large tube. I milled a 3/8" wide x 1/8" deep channel in the 2" tube to clear the weld and it works fine. I vote for a 1" table top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petere76 Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 Thicker is better in regard the table top but weight is also a consideration if you don't have a way to move the table about. A steel plate table, 4' x 8', at .625 in thick, with tubular uprights and framing will run to @ 700- 750 LBS. Cost is another consideration, bigger is better but it is also more expensive, particularly true when buying plate. As a design suggestion, try to incorporate 2 in sockets on the sides and the ends of your table. The sockets will allow you to mount tooling (vices, bending posts, surface extensions etc) on plane and next to the table. A very versitile design that has served our shop well. I got this idea after seeing the set up at the Bear Hill Blacksmith shop in NH. Again, watch the weight, moving around a 1000 lb table is not all that easy. Good luck with your project. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMoore Posted November 20, 2016 Author Share Posted November 20, 2016 Table is built, as specified. The expanded metal "shelf" about half way to the floor is set in 2" angle iron. The table weighs in the neighborhood of 1600 lbs, but rolls easily when the steel casters are unlocked. Have a large post vise welded to the table. Moved it from Colorado to Oregon with little trouble. Shop here coming together. Next purchase will be a plasma cutter and large compressor.. The present shop is 16' x 20' with a 16' by 8' covered porch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donk Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 Does anyone have experience with the tables from weldtables.com i found their site recently and am curious how they would compare to the heavy plate tables talked about in this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McPherson Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 Seems to be a knock-off of Strong Hand tables, but without the depth of tooling available. I do applaud a small fab company for venturing out into the market in a new direction, though. I am seeing a lot of innovation lately. The EPA and health regs pretty much pushed the heavy cast iron table manufacturers overseas before costs pushed everyone else there. They are still plentiful on the used tool market. They often go for scrap because they weigh several tons and are a pain to move. More recently, shipping costs have killed manufactured heavy plate tables for most shops. The smaller, lighter, precision cut and ribbed tables seem to be the new standard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 Those new light weight tables are good for tig or light mig not much room for them in a heavy metal shop. All my tables are 1" thick. Still I tack to them sparingly and chisel off the tacks and go way out of my way to clamp instead using old men or even drilling and tapping. Tacking and grinding has ruined many 1" tick tops given enough years. 2" would not be overkill at all. Only my acorn table has stayed flat forever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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