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Welders-Join W1 drill rod to 6061 aluminium ?

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Welders

Is there a process that I can use to join W1 drill rod, to 6061 aluminium?

I am considering Loctite bearing and sleeve retaining compound, but I would prefer a better fusion.



I have a DC arc welder and oxy torch available.

What I have in mind is solder or brazing and relatively low temp to avoid a heat affected zone on the drill rod.

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Press or shrink fit. Thread or other mechanical fastener. Groove cut around the steel part and the aluminum cast around the steel.

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I would probably want a press or shrink fit, ideally. Since the two materials expand and contract with temperature at different rates this may make for one way being more complex than the other, as far as which material is on the outside. Dry ice can make for a good size change.

Jnewman is faster at typing than me apparently

Pinning or threading a stud in will make it better resist rotation or pulling out.

Phil

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Explosive welding. EMRTC at NM Tech can probably do it for you though the price of explosives has risen over the years!

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Press fit was what I had in mind + loctite.

But I would trust a solder joint more than loctite
If it was possible, less work than the extra machine steps of pinning or threads.


Also considering pins, tapered pins, roll pins, set screws.

Explosive welding. EMRTC at NM Tech can probably do it for you though the price of explosives has risen over the years!


It probably wouldn't help keeping it all straight and flat either.

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A proper press or shrink fit involves putting a shaft SLIGHTLY larger than the hole into the hole often less than .001". You should not need any locktite if you use this method. Generally it requires fairly tight tolerances so if you don't have machining facilities it may not be the way to go. The exception for the tight tolerances is if the walls around the hole are thin enough that they will stretch. I have a product where I press fit a 3/8" pipe(.493") over 1/2" round bar.

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J.B. weld and duct tape, fix it right up ,you bet.

+1 for jb weld and press fit combo, I don't know of any thermal process the will join aluminum and steel. I am Making the huge assumption that w1 refers to a steel rod....

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I would thread the drill rod and tap the aluminium. But I envision the aluminium not being strong enough to support it. Sort of like a steel post stuck in the dirt.

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I would thread the drill rod and tap the aluminium.
But I envision the aluminium not being strong enough to support it. Sort of like a steel post stuck in the dirt.


That's in my mind too.
If I just went all steel soldering would be trouble free.

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Is there a specific reason you are committed to aluminum mating to steel? If it simplifies life to eliminate the dissimilar metals, then do so.

Phil

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Now you didn't say it needed to be nice and flat now did you? If you don't provide the NECESSARY details you can't complain later! (well you can this is the internet after all...)

They have used explosive welding for naval ships where they want a steel hull but an Al superstructure. So an explosively welded transition piece where Steel welders can weld on one end and Al welders and weld on the other is quite handy.

If the design supports it a press fit of Al over a knurled steel shaft can be quite strong.

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Wonder if that miracle rod that solders to Aluminum would stick to Brass? If it did thin coat of braze could be assembled to steel, pressed in then finished with magic rod. Or am I in left field? Would not be first time.

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How about weld or silver braze a thinwall steel sleeve onto the Wi, make the sleeve/W1 assembly the full length of the part and then fill the sleeve with a press fitted aluminum bar . Strong and light, and since the aluminum is just a filler the press fit would not have to be as structural.

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Another more complyant plan would be to bore the end of the aluminum bar, turn a boss on the the W1 that would fit into that bore hole. Drill and tap both the bore hole and the boss end. Connect the two with a stainless steel all thread using your locktight.

Sure would be nice to have some idea of scale and load/strength requirements. Is the reason for using aluminum the need to be non magnetic ? Are the pieces cylindrical, or forged shapes, something else. This would make a great parlor game for machinists.

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Use this product to join the pieces together. I have repaired car door handles that are made of pot metal and can not be welded. I used this to attach a piece of redwood for a handle on a big cleaver that I made about 15 years ago and it is still holding. Get both pieces clean and let it set for a good 24 hours before moving it.


200px-Shoegoo.JPG

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